I just finished changing the brakes on my 1987 F250 IDI project.

I put in new wheelhubs/rotors, races already installed, I put in new bearings, grease, pads, hubseal, caliper pins, and rattle spring.

When I put the hub on I torqued to 50 lbs and then went back a little more than a quarter turn, hub is tight and spins freely.

I used to pieces of wood and a c-clamp to carefully retract the pistons and installed the new pads.

The pads seemed a little tight against the rotor. The caliper doesn't seem to have any provision like a return spring. I drove it up the hill and back a few times just to see if would be a problem and the rotor got pretty hot.

How do you prevent breaks from dragging on this setup?


Pictures for reference













Thanks.

 

Looking at the pictures I just realized there are shims on the back of the pads, do you think I can take those off? Would that hurt anything.

 

The 'shims' are just there to kill harmonics. (squeal)

Did you check the pistons under the rubber boots before you used the clamp to retract them?
I usually just use the old pad, rather than a block of wood.
There could be corrosion or dirt that is causing the pistons not to retract on their own.
The rubber lines could be partially blocked keeping too much residual pressure in the caliper.

 

I did not check, but it wouldn't surprise me. The old brakes were worn part way through the metal, and I don't think they've had material on them in a long time, which means the pistons have been at full extension for a long time, who knows how long it's been since they've been closed?

How do I get the boots off? and if I just replace the calipers how hard is that? If reman calipers seem pretty cheap, but if I take the old ones off won't that get air in the lines? How do you bleed it out?

 

Calipers aren't cheap for these trucks.

I was just suggesting a couple of reasons.
It could just be really contaminated brake fluid too.

You can see the bleeder nipple in your second photo.
Try to open it with a box-end wrench.
It helps if you have a foot or so of clear tube you can push over the nipple and direct the wasted brake fluid into a disposal container.
Be sure the reservoir stays full. You don't want to have to chase a bubble all the way out the line.

To change the caliper you would undo the banjo fitting where the rubber brake line connects to the caliper.
Reassemble everything to where you are now.
Open the nipples one side at a time (starting on the passenger side) and either wait for fluid to weep out,

OR

Find an assistant to press and hold the pedal down.
Open the nipple and allow the air to escape.
Close the bleeder.
Tell the assistant it is okay to release the pedal.
Repeat until the fluid comes clear, with no bubbles.
It can take many pumps to get it clear.
Then move to the side closer to the master cylinder.


These are your brakes, the only things that will stop your truck.
If you don't feel confident about working on them ask an experienced friend to help.
Someone's life may be endangered if they are not operating properly.

If you were to change the calipers, I would suggest changing the rubber lines as well.
Seems like no one has been taking any care of the brakes over the years.
There should be a date on the rubber lines. Either on a loose ring or stamped in the end.
If they are over 7 or so years old you ought to change them while you can.

 

Your new brake pads could be too thick causing the brakes to drag.I have had this happen before.First I would pull calipers back off push caliper pistons all the way back in take cap off master cylinder first .Reinstall brake pads see if you have clearance plus make sure caliper slides back and forth easily.

 

I agree that brakes are important. I went ahead and got fresh calipers and hoses. They're really not that bad price wise. Carquest has re-manufactured calipers for 58, after student discount works out to about 40$ a caliper.

I got the new hoses too.

I think I'll put these calipers on tomorrow, bleed it, and then take it to a shop and have it bleeded again just to be sure.

 

New calipers are probably the way to go, so good call on that. It just sounds like the calipers are seized up. Not that uncommon if they sat a long time or haven't had a pad on them and were still getting used.

 

X2, put new calipers. There about 40$ each at Autozone (up north anyways), and hoses, and be sure to flush out the entire brake system.

Break open your rear wheel cylinder bleeders, and bleed the back brakes till the fluid coming out is nice clean new stuff, same for front.


Don't forget to bleed the RABS box in the frame rail, drivers side, right under drivers feet.

 

Didn't now about the ABS box. What is the ABS system like on these trucks? There's a rear anti-lock dash light that's been on since I started working on it. It doesn't seem to have any ABS sensors on the front spindles.

 

It's called RABS (Rear Anti Lock Brakes) so ABS to the rear wheels only.

It's complete garbage to be honest. Theres only a sensor on top of the rear differential.


It doesn't work for crap, but it's best to bleed that box anyways, cause if air gets trapped in it, it can give you a lower brake pedal.

 

When I crank down the banjo bolt the washers and fitting do not want to seal, it still leaks fluid even without pressure. How can I fix this?

 

"crank down"? I seem to use 30 foot lbs. as a spec on steel calipers.
The copper or aluminum crush washers 'work harden' when they distort to seal the fitting.
And are considered one time use.
Are you using new washers?

 

Hm... I'm at about twice that spec right now so something isn't right.

I got lazy and thought I'd let a shop take care of the old hoses (was going to put the old hose on the new caliper). I've since realized that was not a good idea and removed the old hose. I was afraid the fitting would not come loose so I heated it. It came right off, but not after the hose blew off the fitting. I guess it was more obstructed than I thought.

Once I work that clip off I'm going to try the other caliper, with one of the new hoses, with another set of new washers. Hopefully that'll do the trick.

I may also see if I can't find a new banjo bolt, just in case this old one is stretched and bottoming out.

You mention aluminum washers, do they work better than the copper washers?

Thanks again for the help!

 

I don't think aluminum seal any better than copper washers.
Copper washers on an aluminum caliper can lead to corrosion though, so both are available.

The banjo bolt shouldn't be close to bottoming out.
Try threading it into the caliper without the hose and see how much space is left for the banjo and washers.