My excursion that is. I've been trying to get bugs worked out before spring break so the family can take a trip. This might narrow those chances....this year. I had it idling well but stuttered or had a Miss as soon at you gave it fuel. No codes and good fuel pressure at both ports on fuel bowl. Everything you can replace is new motorcraft. So I'm thinking before I had this problem 2 yrs ago what did I replace? Passenger side fuel line and fuel filter. I have since replaced fuel filter and removed stand pipe. Maybe part of the passenger oring from the old line is wedged in the check valve? So I begin the oil process and this am....
I broke off the check valve threads in the head on the passenger side. At one time I would have been angry. Not any more. But I keep trudging forward. After all everything is new on this truck. Breaks and tires, springs I cants wait to drive it. Then reality hits. Fudge I broke off cv threads in the dmmm head.

Alright ive never had luck w an easy out. I have cut slots in items like this and removed with straight screw driver. But I cants see this and i don't see myself removing the head. Can I plug that port and reroute a fuel line to the check port on the front of the head? It's the same fuel rail right? Do I need a check valve?

Ive said before without this forum I couldn't afford to own a diesel. I would likely be driving a rusty dodge. No offense dodge owners. Thanks forum.
B

 

can u get a phone back in there to snap a picture so we can see what we are dealing with/how much we have to work with?

When you had it running, did you happen to check ipr, injection pulse width and icp pids?

 

Yes..heres a few pics.


my values running seemed in the normal range. Icp, ipr and fipw looked very average from what ive read. It starts easy. A mechanic who diagnosed it said low fuel pressure had damaged my injectors. Although my readings at the fuel bowl were 64 or 65 psi. Anyway i replaced the injectors and fuel pump. Still ran rough. I replaced ucvh and a fuel line. And it would idle fine. But as soon as you hit the accelerator it was rough. Could feel the motor shake. So i suspected maybe a pc of thr oring in the fuel line causing a blockage. After having the check valve out i tried blowing through it. It seemed very restrictive. I think that was my problem. Although this was the first time i had the cv out.

 

Bummer.

The good news is this is a pipe thread fitting and if it was installed at the factory, it is not ridiculously tight. I think an easy out might work pretty well.

Don’t break the easy out. If it’s not coming out, switch to a left hand drill.

on edit: remove the plug on front of head to blow through fuel rail and clean out debris from drill.

Remove turbo, pedestal and up-pipes for better access. I use air chisel these days to tap the PITA clamp on babies butt and no longer struggle with this!!

 

I removed the turbo and got the broke piece out. There was still part of the cv in that area. So i wound up using 2 different easy outs.
Another question what's the trick to getting the band clamp back on from the collector to the turbo. I remember that clamp being a pita..but i fought this one for a bit and finally called it a night.
Thanks for the help fellas.
B

No drilling required

 

Good work!!

Put the clamp on the collector pushed back out of the way of mating surfaces. Then slide it up into place after turbo is in.

you can’t see it and touch it at the same time so you’re gonna have to channel some Stevie Wonder for this.

 

i just had to chime in with a attaboy, nice work on that removal.

i have perfected broken bolt removal over the years and cringed at that one just because if location. Jason with the win on turbo removal call

still pondering your running issue and have a question.

what rpm does is begin and does it ever go away ?

does it run rough of idle 100% of the time or are there occasions it runs correctly?

also, how did changing the injectors change the rough running issue ? or is it exactly the same ?

 

With the turbo out I could just see that spot. That was the method. Thanks again Jason

It ran different before the injectors. It had a ping sound. And low on power. Very low on power like I didn't think it would maintain 65. I found out it would hit 70 but it took awhile.

I have marginal better power now. But runs rough as soon as you give it fuel. It idles much smoother now. I say that...I haven't wrapped it up after having turbo out yesterday. Hoping that check valve was stuck? Maybe that was the problem.

I missed a question of yours. It is 100% of the time. It does not seem to go away.

 

my hunch is the shielded wires in the engine harness, if the shielding gets pierced the injector signal falters,

I am assuming you are checking for DTCs with Forscan or something similar ?

I dont know that Ohming the harness will catch a pierced wire or not, have to look into the pin point test on this. but if you have gone through the liquid part of the fuel system then my logic suggest electric side of the fuel system.

 

I've been using torque for dtc and carguage for buzz test. Currently it has no codes.

That makes sense. A year ago I checked continuity from ea pigtail to the 42pin. Is that a pin point test? I guess that doesn't mean I don't have a pierced wire. I think my brother was saying something like that while I was doing it. It didn't make sense to me at the time.

I could borrow the harness from my f250. Only difference would be the gpcm. I'm not worried about the temps right now, can I just leave those disconnected? I could just tape them to avoid shorts. I know I'm close on this.

thanks for your input I really appreciate it

 

Have you u unplugged the fuel bowl heater and replaced fuse #30 under the dash?

 

unfortunately I am out of country right now but if someone with a FSM can post the pin point test I would follow that.

yes ohming the 42 pin is a part or step in the pin point test

 

The test might be in the Tech Folder. I will attempt to find the pin-point test for the 42 pin connector in my new to me Ford Service Manuals and post it here...

They are not the easiest thing to navigate though, reminds me of Technical Orders we had on tactucal satellite link back equipment we had in the military.

 

OK, bear with me here... I will be editing this post in an effort to provide myself some OJT (is that even a real thing, can someone give OJT to their self?) and the pinpoint test for the 42 pin to T-wood.

42-pin is identified as C138 in the drawing below.



A little more information on the 42 pin in the Excursion...



OK, I found the pinpoint tests in the third manual I checked of course. Looking through them now for the 42 pin connector.

Did not find anything specific to the 42 pin connector while searching for pinpoint test, so I am going through each page of the manuals looking for a visual clue.

 

from memory back when I rebuilt my engine harness there is a section that addresses a pierced shielded high voltage wire. wish i was at home, certain I have it highlighted.