I am still new here, but the restoration of the project truck I bought is in full force. My wife is hating me for being outside all night playing with my truck, instead of inside with her watching TV. Trying to get her excited about the truck, so we can enjoy it together.

SO, truck has a 300 straight 6. Plans have been to put a 351W in before I bought it.

I have 5 351W varrying in years which I am not sure of at the time sitting under the pecan tree at my dads.. I will most likely choose the oldest as the casting should be the thickest. I gave my brother my 69 block for his racecar, so I think I have a 71 block, and also an industrial 351W that came on a pecan sprayer (it drove the sprayer)

I want the truck to be fun to drive, and if it got 8-10 miles per gallon that would be nice too. Future tire size will be 35" on 15 x 12" steel deep wheels, that is what you have to spin.. You have $4000 to spend, this includes the new clutch that has to hold the power.. Let's hear what you would do... Gearing will not be part of this cost, but your input on that into this equation would be nice as well...

I will post my intended build up later...

 

First thing you should do is write a check for $4000 and send it to me.

 

no send it to me

 

well i'd go with 4.10 gears in the back and a edelbrock performance intake with a 4 barrel matching edelbrock carb ( or holly if you're that kind of guy) get a good set of performance headers, if not already duals make it. run a straight pipe to twin cherrybomb glasspacks with MABYE crome tipped tailpipes.(dosent look good on every truck) also if you dont already get either a ZF 5 speed or the Mazada 5 speed from a 87-92 F series. also is it 4x4 or no? and stosh or sycostang would know if older block means thicker.... i'd think they would be the same but.... never heard either way
thats all my knowlege, i'm still a greenhorn at motor building.
just be shure to keep us updated because i want to do a 351 build (either W or a C havent decided yet)

 

Here's how the 351W in my mustang was built.

Full rebuild with balancing, ARP fasteners, flat top marine pistons, .030 overbore.
Unsure of the cam specs since I wasn't paying much attention at the time but it was referred to as a stage 2 rv cam.
The heads were ported, tapped for screw in rocker studs, and oversized valves, 1.6/1.9 IIRC.
Airgap intake, pertronix ignitor, MSD-6A, Holley 650DP.
I replaced everything else distributor, water pump, etc.

For the rebuild and extra parts, I only have about $3k +/- into the motor.

 

Coast High Performance - YOUR SOURCE FOR PURE HORSEPOWER & PERFORMANCE!
I would start here and second the balancing and ARP fasteners all the way round. Build it for torque and it might get 10MPG, most likely want some good aftermarket heads to top it off.
-Johnboy

 

From your post i cant tell if this is going to be a 2wd or 4x4 ?? 15x12 wheels i asume 4x4 ?? With 35in tires i would go 456 gears & you will need some traction controll with a built motor...Lew

 

johnboy what model is that shotgun in your sig

 

buy a crate motor.already done.no hassles.

 

good point, but not as fun as building it yourself...

 

i agree.but you asked for suggestions.you could rent a uhaul. drive to uncle stosh's , buy what you need and and then have a sweet looking truck.

 

You can't buy an assembled engine with good power and money left over for any problems or his clutch for 4g.


Federal Mogul Premium Rebuild kit with forged pistons at 30 over - $500
Federal Mogul CSMHP801-300 - Federal Mogul Premium Engine Rebuild Kits
*** other kits are available depending on rod/main bearing undersize if needed

Port work on the heads, rv or truck cam for the torque, headers, and you will easily be under or at budget for the whole thing.

 

This is a great suggestion, and maybe something I can line up down the road.. Me and my wife like a road trip every now and then, maybe visit some sites up in that area and swing by his palce at the same time..

 

initial build up that I have pondered....

i have the block to be used.. 71 from an LTD I believe.

Start out with a matched rotating assembly.. maybe from here for $1149..

Speedway Small Block Ford Stroker Kits

Next some heads... I have been looking for the 352N SVO heads like I put on my brothers stroker race car, but I can not find them. I wonder if they are no longer made... I like AFR though.. for $1411

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/index.html

then an intake for $299.99
VICTOR JR. 351W INTAKE MANIFOLD

i have a Demon 750 carb sitting on the shelf at my shop for the top. free now, but not when i bought it

Also need to get the ignition module to run on this and I was thinking about a Mallory HyFire 6.6 Multi-Strike CD Ignition. It has the timing detent for easy starting, also switchable for some Nitrous for when I really want to play.. You can get these for about $400

that leaves $740 to buy the timing chain, gaskt set, lifters, pushrods, valve covers, headers, and the other small items.

How does that sound to you guys?

 

I didn't know how serious you wanted to get, but I was also looking at this:

Scat 393 Stoker kit - $900
SCAT Engine Components 1-94205 - Scat Engine Rotating Assemblies

Edelbrock Top End kit - $1800
Edelbrock 2092 - Edelbrock Power Package Top-End Kits
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../2092graph.jpg

All torque up to 4000rpm, and thats not including if you stroked. This is somewhat the combination I was looking at before I decided 460.