Just like the Dumb-*** that I am I messed up the shimms when I took my front end apart and now have to get it back togather. I know that there were shims in front and behind the rear pinion bearing(the one closest to the U-joint Girdle. What wouldshims behind the bearing do? it was aprt once before but there isnt a oil seal wear ring in the seal surface so they didnt shim it back to get to a good surface.? When I have it togather the way that I though tit went togather it was kinda hard to turn the pinion, well it seems like to much so I need to know hoe to reshim it to get the proper pre-load. Thanx

 

http://www.differentials.com/techi.html How to set up a diff
http://www.drivetrain.com/ Specs on each type of diff

 

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 10-Dec-02 AT 11:27 PM (EST)]Usually there's several shims with the same ID and OD - those go between the pinion tail bearing cone and the step on the pinion. (the pinion "tail" bearing is the one closest to the yoke, and the "cone" is the part of a tapered roller bearing that has the rollers and cage) You can see how these shims will clear the bearing cage on the small end of the pinion tail bearing cone. Many times they stick together.

There's ususlly one washer that has the same ID, but a much much larger OD - that one acts as an oil slinger and goes between the pinion tail bearing and the yoke.

Some axles use a slinger or baffle shim trapped between the tail bearing cup and the housing.

I recommend putting all together with oiled bearings (but without the oil seal) and then torquing the pinion nut to 150 ft-lb. The rolling pinion drag for used bearings should be no more than 15 in-lb (easy to turn with one hand). If OK - pull the yoke and install the new oil seal. If not OK - search for additional pinion bearing preload shims that probably are missing (removing shims tightens the bearing setting). I must emphasize that improper pinion bearing setting will most likely end up with bearing failure and then gear failure.

Good luck.

Art
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