I just got a P0299
I notice my boost going down to practically nothing once shifting into overdrive, than after about 30-45 seconds, the thing will give me boost again.
I can also mash the go pedal to get it out of overdrive then ease into the next gear to help the turbo give me boost again.
Also it will overboost if I don't keep an eye on the gauge after it goes into a taller gear so I have to feather the go pedal when this happens.
Don't have the time right now to address the issue but I have to say a big THANK YOU GUYS for this thread, to me it should be a sticky.

 

Hi Folks,
This is not just a bump, I do have some questions. Hopefully this will get someone's attention when it comes back to the top. I have removed and split open my TC. It was a heck of a job getting it off and splitting it open. I worked for over an hour getting it open as I did not want to damage the TC. This is where my questions came about. So far I have encountered only two "O" rings on the drain tube and a flange gasket on the oil supply line. The "O" rings are a commonly available size and the flange gasket is in perfect condition and usable. So what makes the rebuild kit worth $70.00 ??? What's in it? I get the feeling I'm missing something here... Is there any place online I can go to in order to see what is in it? The procedures I see here only show splitting the TC open and doing a good cleaning. Where can I find the procedures involved using the rebuild kit?

Throughout the warranty, Ford replaced the TC six times. When I removed it I saw that they put on a reconditioned TC. I assume this was the case every time they changed it. There is less than 15K on this one. Upon carefull inspection I noticed that there is about a 1/8" chip or notch in one of the turbine vanes on the outside edge. there is a slight bit of curl on the edge of several other of the vanes. It's almost as if at some time or another something foriegn went theough it a damaged it. The damage is well covered with the soot build up so it is obviously not a recent occurrence. I was VERY CAREFUL when taking this thing apart on the bench and I know I did not do do this damage. I strongly suspect it was done in a previous reconditioning operation. Apparently the turbine wheel being in this condition had no real major effect as lack of boost was not a problem in my case. The thing was so gummed up it was sticking at full boost. It blew off the first boot twice and sounded like a shotgun.

Although I feel I could put it back together like this and probably be OK, I really would like to replace that turbine wheel. In order to do this I think I need a complete parts breakdown and a way to identify the part I need. I am also lacking in knowledge as to how to remove the turbine wheel. I will try to get some pictures of this but I will probably have to clean it first because I doubt it will show up very well in the pictures with all the soot on it. I didn't notice it right off myself and it was right it front of me on a well lighted bench.

Any help you folks could render would really be appreciated. I just need some links to more pictures, diagrams, procedures and parts sources. We have a local Ford dealer here and an International / Navistar dealer. They are both a source for parts but they are high pricerd and I strongly suspect they will have to order the stuff. Then they like to add on the special order and shipping charges. If I have to go through all this I might as well sit here at the computer and order stuff and wait for the UPS man to bring it.

I have talked to Brickie on the phone a few weeks ago before I started this job but I have been unable to make a connection with him since then. Every time I call, he's not home and his wife tells me he will call me back. I just need to get lucky enough to call when he's home. I'm sure he would have some helpful information if I could connect with him. Of course he's in BC and I'm in SE Ohio so there is a lot of distance and time difference between us.

Later Folks...

Dave

 

Dave I just had a look at all I have on this computer and cannot find any parts number break down on the turbo.I have a cross refference from ford to international on my puter in alberta that I haven't looked at yet and will see if I can get the roommate to send it to me up here to look through.A phone call to Elite diesel might get you a compressor out of a turbo that they modified for a good price,or at least the p/n to find one at international.

 

I have a 2004 F-250 Diesel I can start the truck and in runs fine, but when I start out the road it has no power. I took the hose off the turbo and I see oil can anyone tell me if there is suppose to be oil there? What is my problem and how can I fix it?

 

For emission requirements the 6.0 has crankcase ventilation (oil vapour) routed into the intake system. Over time on excessive amount builds in the induction system.
It is normal.
BD Diesel is one company that makes a ccv re-route kit to help mitigate this.
You will have to disassemble and clean all of your induction system.

 

Nothing wrong with oil in the intake system. I know trucks with 400K plus miles running that way and never had a problem. Even with the EGR intact.

 

Mark this thread is worth the cash! Thanks for your support.I hope to meet you someday.

 

This is the best tool anyone can have, It saved me over $1700.00. Just finished pulling TC and cleaning it, because of an overboost that sent me into limp mode while towing my boat over the pass. Took me about a day and a half, getting the TC split apart was the hardest part took well over a hour. Only had the truck since March, should have tested it under a load before my warranty expired in April I'm sure the stuck vanes would of showed up, and the dealership could of fixed it for free, but invaluable info for the future, and some satisfaction of completing this project on my own. Ed the parts guy was super helpful, got me the cleaning kit and bigger oil drain tube. My truck must have had previous TC problems because the oil drain tube already had the larger one installed, and my truck is an 05. If anyone wants my old tube(larger size) with new o-rings give me a shout and I will send it to u free as long as you pay for shipping. Thanks again this site rocks.

 

I saw by the e-mail notices I git that this thread is moving again. Well, here's an update... Did the turbo early last October. Since that time I have done a 2500 mile trip pulling my rather tall and heavy enclosed trailer moving several vehicles. I started out here at below freezing temps and was up in the 80's down in Florida. I have also done several other runs more locally. That thing works better than it ever has before. I have to think the generous application of anti-seize compound on the ring and variable vanes does make a big difference. If it hadn't been for Brickie I would probably still be fooling with the thing.

 

Welcome to FTE titanabarlink and mandlhunt Glad you found this information useful. Questions about your truck, the guys are always willing to step up and help out.

 

Most of the posts that I have read on the TC cleaning have mentioned the anti sieze compound. But wouldn't it eventually all burn off due to the high heat inside of the TC?

Has anyone seen a thread about having the vanes, unison ring, and inner turbo housing professionally ceramic coated (Jet Hot, etc.)? It seems that this would end the turbo sticking issue for good.

 

The anti-seize compound seems to have an amazing resistance to high temps. I've seen it used extensively around power plants where the temps are really up there. As for ceramic coating, I suppose it would work out OK if you knew how much to machine off to allow for the thickness of the coating. It would also have to be very uniform. I guess I can't really comment on the effectiveness until I have to clean the turbo again.

 

I was at the dealership today and they said, that my 04 needs a new center section. I asked why would I want to put the same defective part back in my truck? They told me that the new parts are teflon coat and would not stick or have any coking. Said they would sell me the center section for $728. Are the parts teflon coated now to deal w/the sticking problem?

Thanks, Dave

 

When working on your turbo, use Motorcraft antisieze on the unison ring (VGT turbo):
On the antiseize coating - it is a micro thin coat basicly cover the parts the wipe it all off with a lint free rag this will leave a imbedded coating in the pores of the metal. Too much put on and it will bake on and gum it up faster

 

These are turbo pages from the 03/4 manual.