Sounds great!

 

Well Clint and I were working on my 390 and lo and behold the heads fell off- the cam and crank fell out, and the pistons fell out--- So I guess I will have to buy new aluminum heads? Is that how that works? :-) Parts are off to the machine shop

So in a stock 390 with the pistons bored .40 over I wonder what my actual CU will be?

 

398? IIRC but i might be wrong you gonna port your own cast iron heads while you wait?

 

Nope valve job too :-)

 

Well my "390 " is actually a 360---- Pooo now what? Tear down the 352 and rebuild it? find another 390? find crank and pistons for a 390? Rebuild the 360? Poo Poo Pooo!

What to do what to do?

 

Dad say summit has 428 crank in stock

 

ANd he is going to pay for it Whoo Hoo!! My lucky day :-)

 

Maybe I'll hunt up a crank and rods out of a 390 to put in it? The 360 is bored 40 over so I could still use the same pistons. Maybe just stick with what I got? Poo No one tell my wife!

 

Mounted a tach and the barefoot gas pedal on My '59 F100

 

This is my take on it. The 360 .040 over is right at 368 CID. That's a 16 CID increase over the 352. Going to 390 would just be another 30 CID jump. If I was going to do a jump and not use the 360 I'd look for the 428 crank. That would jump you to 418 (410 .040 over) or a 50 CID jump over the 368. Rods are the same for the 390 and the 410. I have read that the low compression 390 piston was used for the 410. The 410 is listed at 10.5 compression ratio stock. I have no idea what CR the 390 piston would yield with a .040 over bore. Might check to see if the 360 piston could be used and what CR it would yield with the 428 crank. Not sure what CR range you were looking for. If it were me, I would wait and gather parts and go big with the 418. And polish heads. I mean it has the 352 in it and runs and drives so you can wait. But if not I'd just throw the 368 in it.

 

Going to go buy 7 gallons of gas for My '59, local Kwik Shop had regular unleaded for $2.83!!

 

well my valve guides are getting badly worn on my p&p heads on my 66 so i have pulled the heads off of smokenchoke's motor and cleaned 20 years of oil, crud, and sludge checked every thing i could all valves appear good and seat well and the valve guides still look ok with no slop and hold a vacuum while i pull the valve out all i need to do now is get some new valve guide seals then i can throw these heads on while i get my good ones rebuilt i might even look into whether i can get my rebuilder to put larger valves and definitely some hardened seats while he is at it gonna be fun lol

 

The SD decided to be sick this morning. I started it and it idled a few seconds then started to run very rough. I am getting a service engine soon light. It will start, but it misses. Any ideas from the SD crowd. I guess I need to try to pull the codes if I can find a reader. My understanding is the basic OBD II readers may not pull all the codes.

 

Check the fuel gauge-- it shouldn't be on E :-)

 

I checked that and it is a little low, but unfortunately that isn't the problem as far as I can tell. I think it is the under valve cover harness has come loose. Not an uncommon issue. It isn't a expensive fix, but I'll need to pull the valve covers which means removing a bunch of stuff from the top of the engine.