What did you do to your truck today..
 

Maybe we could make this a sticky, but I thought this would be a good motivational place to post up what you`ve done to your rig lately.:)

I did the 6637 air filter mod on the Super Duty a couple of weeks ago. The mod consists of taking out the stock air box and filter(known to leak dust around the filter and into the engine) and replacing that with a large cylindrical filter that is used in some big truck applications. The filter was about $35 with shipping from Fleetfilter and the extra hose clamp about $4, the 4' piece of steel exhaust pipe free.

Now that`s cool! Wonder if K&N make a filter for that?

Most of the folks here on FTE with the 7.3 diesels don't recommend K&N filters as they can let fine dust through and that is really hard on the turbo. Something about them not filtering out the really fine stuff in dusty situations.

well, I spent some time, day before yesterday tracing hoses and wires from the V8 sittin in the back of my binder and comparing Dizzys. Then tonight, I went just outside of town to see about another set of axles for the Jeep, but the guy that told me he had them was showing me that they were still sitting in the housing, and he wasn't ready to pull them anytime soon.. (a small detail he kind of forgot to let me in on)
This was ok with me, because I have one coming, and I didn't have the money for them right now anywho, so since it is going to be a while, I made a list of parts that I wanted from him, and to either let me know when he is ready to pull the parts and needs help, or when he has them out and I can come pick them up.

I never was a big fan of any filter other than paper. K&N had a chart that showed paper vs. them. The bar chart showed that the K&N filter flowed more air than paper and that it filtered just as well. That was a lie as K&N eneded the chart early. AMSOIL had a chart of them, K&N and paper. That chart again showed that K&N and AMSOIL both flowed more air than paper. And it showed that AMSOIL out filtered K&N. But that was a lie also as that chart also stopped early. Nothing filters better than paper. K&N and AMSOIL both claim that the extra dirt they let in is too small to cause damage to the engine. Some say you just need to keep your oil filter changed every 3000 miles to removed the extra dirt and keep if from being cloged by the extra dirt and going into bypass mode.

Nothing filters better than a properly installed and clean quallity paper filter.

K&N claims that the dirtier their filter is, the better it filters, well that makes sense..

the more plugged up a filter is, the less air that will pass through it.

therefore less air, likely less dirt. Plus, pretty soon, the dirt is going to be the filter.

I changed a fuel pressure regulator in the exploder, I changed the oil in the escape, and I went out and started the "94 just cause it needs some tlc.

Well, I pushed the tire off the bead on free bee doin a lil back yard wheelin so I pulled it and cleaned the bead and will take it to work tomorrow to air it up :-)

I pulled the old dizzy from the V8, and installed the new one. Should someone consider running the pump in the motor before turning it over? Is that done by turning the screw drive in the bottom of the dizzy hole? Which direction do you turn it if you do?

You can. There is a special tool. Like a round hollow socket with a flat blade inside that turns the oil pump drive. A 3/8's drill is most likely too small. Takes a lot to pump cold oil. It will even draw a good 1/2 drill down pretty good. Best way is to pull a valve cover and turn the pump until oil comes out of each push rod. If the engine has set for a long time it might not hurt to squirt a small amount of oil in each cylinder. Try to get it to the top side of the cylinder as it will run down and lube the bottom (or exhaust) side.

Curtis, I have an old heavey duty 1/2 inch drill that should do the job if you want to borrow it. It isn't variable speed, so you'll have to hang on tight. LOL

I think chebbie stuff turns clockwise to run the oil pump and Ford stuff is counter clockwise, but you will want to check for sure. You probably can "borrow" the special tool for this from Autozone. That's what I did before I started my 400 Ford in POJ.

Hey Jack, how about a spray oil, that comes in an areosal can? something like WD40 only a little thicker oil?

Thanks Del, when I get to that point, I may have you stop by to have you make sure I am doing it the right way.
I have a 1/2 inch drill, I think it might even be variable speed, I can't remember, I only use it for the hammer drilling.

I use an old timey oil can with motor oil. Like this: Oilers | Fuel Transfer + Lubrication | Northern Tool + Equipment Remove the plugs and go in through the spark plug hole. I know the Ford tool is different from the Ebby one for small blocks. Ford is a six sided shaft and you can use a socket and extension. Ebby has the slotted shaft drive. Or you can just leave the plugs out and use the starter to turn the engine over fast. Hook up your timming light and time it while it's turnning over fast and again look for oil comming out of the top of each push rod. If it's a carb motor it will also fill the carb with fuel. Put the plugs back in and it should fire right up. The oil will help seal the rings and aid in drawing in air/fuel in and help with compression.