Hey guys,

Just got a nice box from the UPS guy with a new windshield gasket, and new Vent Window Gaskets.

How do I get these vent window gaskets in? Do I need to remove the glass?

I can't believe how soft the rubber is! The old ones are ROCK HARD and leak wind + water!

 

I beleive Dennis Carpenter catalog (on line) has a page which shows you every step of this procedure. It's not too tough--take your time and it'll turn out great.

 

id love to know also, i have a set waiting to go in. I took them with the truck to the painter and he didnt replace them because he said he breaks them all the time!

 

Found this in my searched:
https://autozone.ro/az/cds/en_us/090...rInfoPages.htm

I will give it a go sometime soon, and let you know how it goes! I can't wait to hear the difference, as I've sound proofed the entire cab which made a huge reduction in road noise, now all i hear is swishy wind coming in through these gaskets!

 

The vent window glass itself does not need to be removed from the vent frame to replace the vent frame w/strips,.

The actual vent frame needs to be removed, as the w/strip fits between the frame and the vent frame w/strip retainer.

 

LOL :)
BTDT
~$320 in Super DynaMat inside my cab, dash and doors.

I installed NOS Ford gaskets and it didn't help at all. :/
The "OS" part is the key there, they were about as old as my '75 pickup, see?

Another thing is the zinc levers have bent over time. :/ (mines a '75)
Zinc is a soft+brittle metal and will bend slowly over time and you go and try to
bend it back and it'll break. So first it was pocket change, now it's magnets out
of older hard drives. ;)

Anyway, might consider buying new levers too, if you're rich. ;)

Alvin in AZ

 

Alvin,

I noticed that today. The levers are pretty weak.

Wedging a piece of cardboard between the lever and the slide works pretty well, but probably puts a lot of stress on the shaft.

 

The shaft is steel, it can take quite a bit. ;)

The NOS seals were better than my old ones but since they were trying
to conform to their new situation and being that old too, that's where the
problem was. So I figure I'm in about the same situation as guys "back
east" at this point. ;)

So back to your situation, the window handles have lightened up on their
own load by bending. You put that load back by stuffing something under
it. There are threads here about how much change it takes to correct
your noisy vent windows and how much their pickup came with too. LOL :)

Look close, image if the handle were straight again and guess how much
thickness it'll take to correct it.

Too bad Zinc bends like that. :/ Check out ceiling fan blade holders. ;)

Alvin in AZ

 

When my 72 was stolen, the vent lock was what they got in with. After getting the truck back 2mo later, one of the things I did was use black silicone all the way around the gasket on the inside. I think you would have to break the glass to get into one of them now, and no wind noise. You really cant see the thin bead anyhow, and I dont miss opening them, because I rarely used them.

 

Cool! :)
I hardly use mine either, but I do use them. :/
...but what about some release agent on the glass and some black silly-cone...

Alvin in AZ

 

i use my vent window all the time. if you just crack it open and rest your arm on the armrest it will suck all the smoke out when you are smoking a cigarette. the passenger side doesnt get used much though, and leaks a little, so i stuck a nickel in between the **** and that did the trick!

 

ok guys, here's the story.

I replaced the drivers side window gasket with a brand new one from LMC. Now, it may be a gasket quality problem, being from LMC, but the rubber is very soft and seems good.

The vent window doesn't leak now. But there is still lots of wind noise. I found that the wind noise is not coming from between the window and gasket, but the door frame and gasket. There is a tiny gap on the inside that the rubber does not seal against. Doesn't matter how i situate the rubber, it won't sit in a way that will seal it. If the rubber lip was another 1/16 or 1/8 wide, it would seal up great.

So I am going to get some 1/8" closed cell weather stripping and put it between the frame and the gasket, where it is not visible.

To test this, I put some electrical tape over this gap and went on the highway. The truck was dead silent insead, except the low road noise from the tires and that obnoxious pitter-patter of the headers. (i hate headers in every way a man could hate a header.)

 

my door gaskets are shot too, but luckily they dont make any windnoise. the passenger side is worse than the drivers side. people always slam the heck out of my door! and my drivers side door closes without going BLAM!!! you can tell by the way they sound that its metal to metal contact and no rubber when you close em. are you talking about on yours the part where the deck plate presses down on the gasket?

 

Black Silicone and Mold Release and that's not for Mold like on bread. Works great, self forming and invisible after you finish.

 

the link above wouldnt work for me but i went through this today so i took some pictures of the drivers door.







this bolt holds the lower part of the window track(which is attached to the vent window frame). Once you remove this nut you need to use an allen wrench(i think it was 1/8) to remove the stud so you can pull the frame out of the door. Its a good idea to place a board or something inside to support the glass because after you remove the frame the window will want to fall over.



here there is supposed to be a screw(was missing on mine). Remove this screw, it holds the upper portion of the window frame.



There are 3 more screws that hold the vent window frame in place. Once these 3 are removed(and the other two mentioned above) the window frame will be free.

Here you can see me tilting it. If you do this without the glass supported it will fall down in the door.




Here is the entire frame out of the door.



you need to snake it out of the door a bit and you will need to twist it 90 degrees to fish the lower bracket out.

Now that the frame is out of the door you need to remove the nut/spring/washer from the pivot of the window. The pivot has two of the sides flattened off for a few of the washers to sit on. One of these is a cam shape that is the stop when you open the window. make sure this goes back on in the correct orientation.



There are two small philips head screws near the point of the frame. this will undo the frame at this one point only and allow you to move it around to get the gasket in/out.



You also have the two screws that hold the top pivot of the window.



once the top pivot is undone you can pull the glass out of the frame.

The gasket(stock) is riveted in 5 places to the frame. I just used a flat head screw driver to pry the gasket off and used a dremel to take care of the rivets. I did not reinstall rivets. if you have a right angle drill you can get to all of the rivets.

The procedure is fairly easy. Obviously you have to remove the door panel first and if you have the louvers at the top of the window they need to be removed as well.