97 F250 4.6 exhaust manifold leak
#1
97 F250 4.6 exhaust manifold leak
Ok, So I got a 97 F-250 w/ a 4.6 V-8 (auto trans 4x4). The exhaust manifold bolts are rusting & have forced the exhaust manifold away from the head enough so I got a leaking/broken exhaust gasket. (Just starting to get louder).
My mechanic quoted me roughly $800.00 to take the manifolds off, install new gaskets & bolts (he tells me "the new hardware is better than stock & the bolts failing are a Ford common issue".
But he also warns me if he "breaks (and bets he will) any of the bolts off the head flush". "The heads will need to come off to drill & tap & I am looking at over $1200.00. Never mind if the manifolds are no good".
My truck has high mileage & I got a tight budget. At the same time, it runs GREAT & the body is flawless for a 97.
I'm thinking of tackling the job myself. I'm a little better than a backyard mechanic & have many tools. But I'm a powder coater not a pro mechanic
My questions are
A: Any BTDT advise?
B: Might it be a smart time & easier to install aftermarket headers rather than to put back on the old manifolds (even more so if the stock manifolds turn out to be NFG)?
C: Where might be the best place to buy aftermarket headers, that will mate with the stock ford exhaust?
Thanks
Bob
www.capecodpowdercoating.com
My mechanic quoted me roughly $800.00 to take the manifolds off, install new gaskets & bolts (he tells me "the new hardware is better than stock & the bolts failing are a Ford common issue".
But he also warns me if he "breaks (and bets he will) any of the bolts off the head flush". "The heads will need to come off to drill & tap & I am looking at over $1200.00. Never mind if the manifolds are no good".
My truck has high mileage & I got a tight budget. At the same time, it runs GREAT & the body is flawless for a 97.
I'm thinking of tackling the job myself. I'm a little better than a backyard mechanic & have many tools. But I'm a powder coater not a pro mechanic
My questions are
A: Any BTDT advise?
B: Might it be a smart time & easier to install aftermarket headers rather than to put back on the old manifolds (even more so if the stock manifolds turn out to be NFG)?
C: Where might be the best place to buy aftermarket headers, that will mate with the stock ford exhaust?
Thanks
Bob
www.capecodpowdercoating.com
Last edited by CapePowder; 02-28-2009 at 04:46 PM. Reason: typo
#2
I have a tendancy to take the hard way so I would suggest that you tackle the job yourself.
I've found that Ford "Locktites" everything and the only way to possibly get the nuts to break loose with out breaking the studs/bolts is to soak the studs/bolts with "Rustbuster" for several days if you can. If not, warm the engine to operating temp and wearing fairly thick gloves start removing the studs/bolts by first tightening a bit just to break the locktite and then back them out. This is a job best done from under the vehicle.
I keep saying studs/bolts because the rust will often weld the nuts on so tight they become one unit.
I would buy new manifolds from Advance auto parts or a similar store, or even pick up a used pair from a bone yard. The nice thing about iron manifold is that they rarely leak until broken or salt eats them up they also dont make a lot of noise when they are cooling down. They also usually last a lot longer.
I've found that Ford "Locktites" everything and the only way to possibly get the nuts to break loose with out breaking the studs/bolts is to soak the studs/bolts with "Rustbuster" for several days if you can. If not, warm the engine to operating temp and wearing fairly thick gloves start removing the studs/bolts by first tightening a bit just to break the locktite and then back them out. This is a job best done from under the vehicle.
I keep saying studs/bolts because the rust will often weld the nuts on so tight they become one unit.
I would buy new manifolds from Advance auto parts or a similar store, or even pick up a used pair from a bone yard. The nice thing about iron manifold is that they rarely leak until broken or salt eats them up they also dont make a lot of noise when they are cooling down. They also usually last a lot longer.
#3
As far as the header question for the best fit, go with JBA smog legal headers. Noticeable power gains, and they line up and bolt in like the factory parts. You will not have to modify any smog components, or reroute EGR lines (if you have any).
If you get the stainless steel ones, don't have to worry about rust, and JBA uses heavy gauge steel, so cracking is unlikely too. The only problem with JBA is the price, but if you are gonna take the time to pull manifolds, I say you might as well do it right. It should still cost you less than $1000, even if you break a stud or two.
As for breaking things, if you can get an impact wrench, it does prevent breaking things. Use plenty of rust penetrant, and use a low torque setting.
If you get the stainless steel ones, don't have to worry about rust, and JBA uses heavy gauge steel, so cracking is unlikely too. The only problem with JBA is the price, but if you are gonna take the time to pull manifolds, I say you might as well do it right. It should still cost you less than $1000, even if you break a stud or two.
As for breaking things, if you can get an impact wrench, it does prevent breaking things. Use plenty of rust penetrant, and use a low torque setting.
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