the tire wear may be uneven across the tire due to over inflation also are the tires properly balanced?

 

Tires are properly balanced, well as of about a month ago.

 

Well i drove it again this morning to work with the lower psi. It doesn seem to wander the road like it did before, but if i leave the tires where they were when i first started having this problem i still get a slight pull to the right, if i move any tire from the passenger side to the driver side it seems to straighten out with only a faint pull to the left every now and then. Am i still looking at junk tires from over inflation? But like i said before these tires came on the truck when i got it a year ago and i have only put about 5000 miles on it since then and the tires dont look any different to me then they did when i got it. The ones I have in the back are worn different than the fronts though. The rears are worn more in the middle of the tire than the outside edges. Let me hear what you think.

 

Which is what happens if they are overinflated. More pronounced in the rears because there is less weight on the rear axle compared to the front axle.

 

Ok, im about ready to just pass this off as the problem being the roads, or a slightly off (but in spec) alignment. I switched to my summer tires and rims. Drove it for the past couple days. I still get a very very slight pull to the right, but it only seems to be on certain roads, like back roads or secondary roads. Main roads its really pretty striaght and when it does seem to pull its not one that i have to really fight. This F150 i have is the first ford Ive ever had. Maybe the front suspension is just a little more sensitive than the others (chevys) that ive owned. Maybe im letting it get into my head too much. Here are my alignment numbers. Someone take a look at them again and see if then end numbers that the truck is adjusted to would give me that slight pull to the right. Thanks again guys!

Front caster left-4.58*
Front caster right-4.63*

Front camber left- -.48*
Front camber right- -.53*

 

Just my opinion here....

Seems to me that you've been on here quite frequently regarding issues that really aren't, in my opinion, issues at all. Seems that whenever something isn't perfect you are looking for a way to fix it, when in reality nothing may be broken at all.

As for the slight pulling, my truck can be the same way. With only 20K on the odometer, on some roads, it will pull a bit to the right. Get on a different road, however, and it's straight as an arrow. Nothing wrong with my truck, it's just the roads! If there's a problem like that that only presents itself on some roads, some of the time, it's almost certain to be related to the bank of the roads, NOT the truck! If it were a suspension, bearing, brake, or steering issue it'd do it ALL the time!

If it ain't broke....

 

I know, i know, i know, im just a worry wart! And i get on these message boards and start reading stuff and it gets me thinking. I did have a draggin brake though, and i did fix that. But i do think i have some sort of mental problem that i always have to be fixing something, or worrying about something. Maybe i need medication, or find something else to occupy my time with during the winter.

But i did have way too much air in my tires, and the ATs that were on it are deffinately worn different and bad. So im not all that out there, i have my reasons sometimes!

Thanks for listening though guys and for the help!

Oh, by the way, where is Pickerington, OH at? Im right on the boarder on the PA-OH line. Im on a racecar crew that races at Sharon Speedway and Raceway 7. Not sure if you know about them they are both on the East, North East side of the state.

 

Believe me, I used to be the same way. So I went out and bought a '95 Chevy. I now have plenty of stuff to fix!

Pickerington is a few miles east of Columbus, about 110 miles from the state line on I-70. Not familiar with those tracks, what kind of racing is it?

 

Dirt track stock cars, sprints, emods, late models, that sort of stuff.

I had a 93 chevy that i should have never got rid of. Regular cab, short bed, 4x4, 350, 5spd. I had it for quite a few years i put about 30,000 miles on it and never had to change a thing on it, got rid of it with 150,000 on it, and everything looked stock when i got it with a little over 100,000 on it.

 

I really dont want to beat a dead horse but i still cant shake the thought that the pull i feel is the roads. It seems to do it on every road the more i drive it and the more i keep and eye on it. I even put my summer tires on, stock size General Ameritrac. I put 35 psi in them and drove it for the past two weeks or so. The pull to the right isnt as bad as it was with the ATs on but i still feel like i have to keep a slight constant pressure to the left on the wheel. I decided to check the IWE soleniod and lines and the IWE itself with my vaccuum guage since i cant find any play in the front. Thinking that maybe if the passenger side was engaging or partially engaging that it would pull it to the right. Am i correct in my thinking there? So tonight i got my vaccuum guage out and checked the IWEs at the wheel, they both hold vaccuum fine. I checked the hose that connects to the soleniod and runs to the intake. That has vaccuum. I pulled the line off the hub on the drivers side. When the truck is on it builds vaccuum (should it slowly build vaccum or should it be an instant vaccum?) I tested the line at the passenger hub and it doesnt not build vaccuum at all, if i try to create vaccumm with the pump on the guage and it wont. Should it and would this be right? I blew the lines out to make sure there wasnt water to dirt in the lines and test both ends again. Same result. So should there be building vaccuum or instant vaccuum at both lines? I would think. But is it possible that there could be vaccuum at the drivers and none at the passenger since the lines are connected? So now, if what i tested is not testing correctly, should i be concerned about the soleniod or the line? If the soleniod, i can get one at the dealership correct? And if its the line, how would i go about replacing just the driver side because of the Y in the line, and what is the way to replace the line, can i build some sort of line with hose from the parts store and some connections, or do i need to get it at the dealership. If thats the way it should be then i guess there is nothing wrong. I know i seem like i hunt for something to fix but to me it just doesnt seem quite right you know. Everything else checks out fine. Wheels spin free now from the brake problems i had, no play from what i can see in the front end and everything is tight. Let me know what you guys think now. Thanks again!

 

One more peice of information. When the front wheels are off the ground and the truck is running while in 2wd, and i spin the wheels the half axles going from the hub to the front diff spin as well. From what i have been reading when there is the correct vaccum with the engine running the hubs should be disengaged and the axles should not turn, am i right there? If i engage 4wd while the truck is running the half axles still turn but i feel more resistence, (like its also turning the front drive shaft). So after saying all of this im thinking that maybe my IWE soleniod is not giving the right vaccumm to disengage the 4wd and its always engaged, and that is why with absolute no vaccum to the passenger side its aways engage, and partial to low building vaccum on the driver side its sometimes engaged and sometimes not. After that it would give me some pull to the right when the passenger side is grabbing and straighten out when they are both engaged. Sound like the culprit?

 

Hrmm....very interesting.

The drive axles definitely should NOT turn with the engine running in 2wd, so you really found yourself a problem here! I doubt it'd cause a pull like you mentioned, but at very least your front diff would be spinning whenever the truck was rolling, so you would lose MPGs over it, and have a little more driveline wear.

As far as troubleshooting it...I don't know where to start, to be honest. I'd try playing with the solenoids while the engine is running, see if you can get vacuum to build.

 

See here is what im thinking, since i cant get vaccuum at the passenger side and slow building on the driver, then at low speeds hence low RPMs there is lots of vaccuum, so it it would slowly build and unlock the hub (driver side) while still leaving locked in the passenger side, so the passenger side would be grabbing and the driver would not, causeing my pull maybe. But at high speeds and higher RPM, there is less vaccuum causeing both sides to lock in and leave me going straight, because that is when i notice the pull is not as great.But if there is leak close to the hub on the passenger side would it still allow vaccuum to build and be present on the driver side? And like i asked before, should the vaccuum be instant or should it build slow? Im really not seeing a lack in MPG though almost got 16 MPG city last tank. Im just wonderin about an easy way to replace the vaccuum lines, can i just make them? Im not sure i can visually pin point a leak, can i pull and plug the lines and fill them with something and look for a leak? Im not sure. How do i test the IWE soleniod?

 

Im also getting some sort of vibration in the truck at about 35-50 MPH. Now i think its from the front axles alway spinning. How do i test the solenoid?

 

Can i just make my own new vaccuum lines that go from the solenoid to the hubs? Just put a Y in it to split it off to go to each wheel. Im thinking of ordering the solenoid today from the dealership and then i would have it tommorow. Then replaceing the lines tonight. Then between the two i should have found the cause of little or no vaccuum. If i make my own line out of new hose is there anything i should be careful of to make sure i keep or do a certain way, thanks again!