Possible causes of why the truck pulls to one side are:

* Incorrect or unequal tire pressures.
* Unmatched tires on the same axle.
* Restricted brake lines or hoses.
* Stuck or siezed caliper or caliper piston.
* Defective or damaged shoe and lining (grease or brake fluid on the lining, or a bent shoe).
* Malfunctioning rear brakes.
* Loose suspension parts.
* Loose calipers.

Did you add silicone brake grease to the slides on the new brake calipers? If not, they might just be sticking, which can indeed cause the brake linings to drag on the rotors. Restricted hoses and brake lines can also cause this to happen. I would not recommend messing with the master cylinder until you can rule these out first. If you can rule all these out, then it sounds like the return springs inside the master cylinder are worn out. This will require removing the master cylinder from the booster, completely rebuilding the master cylinder by replacing the seals, return spring and bench bleeding it before reinstalling it back in the truck. Master cylinder overhaul kits often include entire piston assemblies rather than individual seals. Be sure to use a soft nylon brush to clean the cylinder bore before reassembly. The soft nylon will not harm the anodized surface coating inside the master cylinder.

These trucks use what is called a dual split type master cylinder, which means they have two separate pressure building sections. One section operates the front brakes and the other section operates the rear brakes. The "nose end" of the master cylinder is the "closed end" toward the front of the truck. The "open end" is called the "pushrod end" of the master cylinder. These Ford trucks operate the front brakes (which do most of the braking) from the "nose end" section (secondary piston end) of the master cylinder. The secondary piston has only one pressure building seal. The primary piston (pushrod end) requires two seals to build pressure. Therefore, the nose end of the master cylinder is the more reliable of the two master cylinder pressure building sections.

If the rear section of the hydraulic system fails, the primary piston will not build pressure to operate the secondary piston. To permit the operation of the secondary piston (nose end piston) in the event of a hydraulic failure of the rear section, the primary piston extension will mechanically contact and push on the secondary piston.

Consequently, if there is a failure of the front section hydraulic system, the primary piston (pushrod end) operates normally and exerts pressure on the secondary piston. The secondary piston will not be able to build pressure because of the leak in the system.

If a master cylinder is leaking internally, brake fluid can be pumped from the rear chamber into the front chamber of the master cylinder. This internal leakage is often called "bypassing." When the fluid bypasses, the front chamber can overflow while emptying into the rear chamber. Whenever checking the level of the brake fluid, do not think that a low rear reservoir is always due to an external leak. Also, a master cylinder that is bypassing (leaking internally) will usually cause a lower than normal brake pedal.

Hope this helps to explain how the brake system on these trucks work and how to troubleshoot the system.

 

Yes, i have checked or replaced all the above, except hoses and master cylinder, hoses wont be here untill next week. Im a firm beleiver of brake pin lube, when i installed the new calipers last week i even cleaned off the lube that came on the pins and put my own on, i know the calipers are good, tires are equal pressure and tread depth ( i even had a completely different set of tires and rims on and still same problem). Everything is tight up front, it has been to two shops for alignment and check out of the front over the last 2 months. (Both said the truck was already aligned) I get good braking in front and back when brakes are applied and have a great pedal. Very firm and starts braking as soon as touched. I have researched this problem and see that people some on this board and some on other boards had the same problem as me and replaced the same parts as me and it ended up being the rod adjustment. So while im waiting for the hoses im going to take the bolts off for the master cylinder and see if that repeases the pressure on the fronts. If it does than i can rule that the adjustment rod it out too far, and needs turned in a bit.

 

;cant say i've ever heard of the linkage not being properly adjusted...

 

Im just thinking ahead to after i work on it again. If when i get the new hoses, that doesnt work, and i put a new master cylinder on and that doesnt work. What are my options then? At that point everthing would be new from the master cylinder to the calipers (except the steel line from the master cylinder to the rubber line) Ive already pulled the line off the master cylinder and blew it out to each wheel so the steel lines are cleaned out.Another question: Will there always be a slight drag with the brakes? During normal operation? And is is somewhat normal for the rims up front to build some heat, but not getting too hot? Im just not really sure what to look for as being normal once i replace the parts.

 

There generall is a slight drag in the front brakes, but it should be even on both sides and the wheel temp shouldn't be excessive. It also should be about the same on both sides. Is there a possibility of a front wheel bearing causing the problem? If one of the bearings are loosing its grease, it would be appreciably warmer than the other side. It may not necessarily be bad to the point of being loose, but if its not as well lubricated as the opposite side that would create more heat in the hub which would transfer to the wheel, rotor, and tire assembly. As the heat expands the metal parts, it would create more drag on that side and could cause a pull to one side or the other.

Greg B

 

Well that would suck. After i do all this stuff to the brakes. I dont have a grinding noise, and there isnt any play in either of the wheels. But i guess ill have to wait and see.

 

I remember redaing either on here or on my motorhome group the certain years of ford brake hoses had problems with braking down internally and blocking off the brake hose like a check valve, The hoses are made in layers and the inner layer was seperating, so it would allow you to apply the brakes but would ot let the pressure release.

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/ind...?topic=18486.0

 

Brake hoses are on order and on their way.

 

Are you replacing just the front brake hoses or are you replacing all of the brakes hoses? The reason I am asking is if there is a restriction in the rear hoses going to the rear brakes it can cause more brake pad pressures being applied to the front brakes. Replacing these lines should eliminate this problem.

 

Im going to wait and see what the front brake lines accomplish. And am going to end up with the same problem with having to order the rear lines like i did the front lines and be forced to get ford parts. I dont know if i can afford to dish out another $200-$300 for a set of brake hoses.

 

OK, now im stumped! Ive made a habit of feeling the rims everytime i get out of the truck now. Well the last couple times ive driven it i get out and the rims are ice cold. No more heat coming from them, but here is the kicker, i still get the pull, and here is what it feels like, if i can explain it a little better, it feel like the wind is blowing my truck to the right causing me to have to pull the steering to the left, sometimes more than others, and then all the sudden its blowing me to the left real quick, but not as hard as it blows me to the right, so i dont know what to do now, if im not getting any heat from my front brakes now i dont think its brake drag.

 

I had a similar problem on my 06 F250. The left front rim was really hot after driving. I ended up taking everything apart and the only thing I found wrong was some heavy rust build up. More specifically there is a metal clip on the end of each pad, both inner and outer. These clips have ride in a channel in the caliber. The clips and the channel had some heavy rust build up. I lightly sanded all the contact surfaces and applied a thin layer of brake grease to them. Now it works perfectly. I went for a long ride and pounded the brakes. The rim was ice cold when I got back.

 

I already have new calipers pads and rotors up front. All clean new clips, slide pins greased, everything. 2 alignments by two different places, and front suspension all checked out by both places.

But i still get the pull.

I have a 2 psi difference in the front two tires, just checked them, 2 lower on the passenger side, ill have to put some in when i get home from work, but i wouldnt think that 2 psi difference would cause what im feeling in the pull.

Could a problem with the back brakes cause a pull. I dont notice anything out of the ordinary in the rear, no heat or brakes dust and both rotors are clean with even wear from the pad. Parking brake and rotors are newer. (Put them on in the fall) and adjusted, and they arent dragging.

Am i stumping anyone yet?

 

Im going to assume that since my heat went away in the front end and everything seems to have freed up with my brakes that i took care of the problem with that, but as far as the pull side to side, more right than left, since everything has checked out alignment wise, and rotating tires and different tires doesnt do anything, what do you guys think about the sway bar end links, i want to jack it up tonight and check them out, but ive seen some other posts throughout that some sway bar end links have given up, causing some people to have a pull or wander on the road even after alignments come back ok. Any thoughts?

 

ejcamero, let me ask something. Did you take your truck into a place that sells tires to get the alignment checked? I had a front end problem years ago that went on for years and finally got it fixed at a place that spealized in front end and break work. The service manager there told me, "never take your vehicle in for alingment work at a place that sells tires." Just a thought.