I am currently working on replacing all the studs on my exhaust manifolds. I have an '03 Excursion. I have read everything on this site about doing it and thought i'd give it a try. So maybe to help someone else, here is what i have found so far:

Drivers side had one visually broke before I started. Upon taking the others out 3 more broke off and left part of the stud 1/8" below the surface of the block. I have succesfully extracted 2 of them so far.
I have to agree with "Mr. Krewet" that the studs are defective.

Passenger side had 1 broke before I started and as of now has 3 broke below the surface of the head and 2 broke with some stud sticking out.

The studs drill very easy with regular bits. (Not Stainless?)

Thankfully none broke on the bottom where the motor mounts are.

It is incredibly important to get your drill started in the center of the stud. After getting a nice hole they came right out with an extractor. Actuall the 4 on the drivers side were loose in the head. I could rotate them with a sharp instrument. Problem is the first thread or two is monkied up from the shoulder of the stud.

Updates to come as I progress.

I am planning to re-install with grade 8 hex head bolts.

Thanks for everyone for the info on this site.

 

I managed to get all the busted studs out this morning without damaging any threads. What a huge relief!! I had to resort to welding a nut to one stud because i broke my pilot drill off in it. I just zapped the end of the stud and built up some weld until it was above the surface of the head then held a nut up to it and filled it in. It came right out.

All in all not a bad job to do.

 

How long did it take you?

 

You say some seemed loose,,,sounds like left-hand drill bits may have backed them out nicely,,,?? Did you try them ?

 

I'm glad its going so well for you, I'm going to start mine soon. Where can I get left hand drill bits from?

 

I have 6 hours into getting everything removed. I am waiting on some grade 10.9 flange head 8-1.25 x 35 mm bolts so I can put it all back together.

I only used left hand drill bits. Problem is the first thread or two is messed up a little from the shoulder of the original studs so it took a fair anount of torque to get them passed those threads.

My local True Value had left hand bits.

 

Update:

I checked my manifolds on a granite surface plate at work the other day. The drivers side was within .004" of being flat. The passenger side was flat as well except the one port at the front (opp. collector) which was up .010". I am used to working within .001" of an inch in my trade so .010" kinda seems like a lot.

I called my local auto parts that has a machine shop and they are going to resurface them both for me. $40 each.

With a little luck my bolts I have on order will arrive before this weekend.

Dave

 

Final follow up.

The job is done. All in all I had to extract 7 broken studs below the surface of the head, six came out with an easy out and one I had to pile weld onto the end of the stud and weld it to a nut and it came right out. With some practice the welding route might be the easier way to do it. If you drill them a 90 degree close quarters drill is a must. The studs were very soft, they drilled easily with regular bits. The threads in the head had absolutely no corresion or crap in them so there was no need to chase the threads. When I installed the new grade 10.9 bolts I was able to thread them all in by hand.

The truck is noticeably quieter now. I guess I didn't realize it was louder than normal cause it was like this when I bought it.

Total cost was Gaskets-Felpro $17, Grade 10.9 Bolts $25, resurfaced manifolds $35 each, a few drills and 1 extractor about $15, and about 10 hours total of my labor which is free. Total about 140 bucks.

This went incredibly smoother than I expected. Sorry no pics.

 

I thought I read that the old style studs are made of copper??

 

The ones on mine seemed to be just plain old soft steel. they drilled easy and the weld really stuck to them as well. I think the $8 replacement studs from Ford are copper coated.

 

Ah....so a question...can you remove a broken stud without removing the manifold? I just found one of mine (Front driver side) broken off. Ahhh the joys of the Ford Modular!

 

I have heard of it being done....but more than likely there are more that are "just hanging on by a thread".

 

OK...thanks...guess I'll have to budget some time to get this one done.

 

So I have the dreaded broken bolt issue and have been quoted $1,400 to have it fixed as they have indicated the heads will have to be pulled!

After reading your posts I am curious as to your position on the difficulty level for this project. I am a mechanicly inclined self doer but this deal seamed a bit much to me.

I find it hard to believe that the heads have to be pulled to fix this but that is what I'm being told... Of course no one ever said all shops and mechanics are honest!

So in closing let me ask for some input from any members as to whether a guy like me;who can fix the washer and dryer, install a pool, build a pond, replace the brakes on any car, repair the a/c system, install radiators, water pumps, alternators and thermostats as well as replace the furnace blower motor... can I do this myself?

If I can do it myself then why do they want to charge me $1,400.00? PS: I don't weld.

 

I had 2 dealers quote me about the same price....$1000 as long as the manifolds don't crack when they remove them. I cannot imagine why someone would tell you they need to pull the heads unless they're just not willing to do them in the truck.

A local guy I use for service told me he could do it for around $500 in labor. He lets me bring my own parts.