1988 Ford f250 Loose Steering
#1
1988 Ford f250 Loose Steering
My beater hauler with 460 has some scarry loose steering which a new steeriing box did not resolve. There are easily 2" of play.
I am assuming it is the pitman arm but can anyone provide advice to diagnosing? Any hints tips or tricks?
Is there a diagram online somewhere?
Regards,
A
I am assuming it is the pitman arm but can anyone provide advice to diagnosing? Any hints tips or tricks?
Is there a diagram online somewhere?
Regards,
A
#3
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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get a helper. do not start the truck. open the hood, and look at the steering column above the rag joint where the column bolts to the steering box. have your helper turn the steering wheel from side to side. see if there is any play in the slip joint where the upper column meets the lower column. there is a spring steel clip, and a Teflon bushing in there keeping the two pieces tight. when the clip breaks, the Teflon bushing will either fall out, or travel up into the upper column until it falls off inside.
this will result in approximately 1/4 turn play in the steering wheel with the engine off, and when driving, it will take you the better part of 2 lanes to go straight.
this will result in approximately 1/4 turn play in the steering wheel with the engine off, and when driving, it will take you the better part of 2 lanes to go straight.
#4
So I had a close look this weekend.
Despite have one torn ball joint boot everthing is pretty tight.
The only descernable play was found on the centerlinkage joing (very minor) the Steering column Ujoint (very minor)
And LOADS of play on the box itself.
This box was installed by my mechanic last year. I guess I have one big concern....
Why would a new box (reman unit) need to be adjusted after 5000 miles? Should I adjust it and forget about it?
Thanks
Anthony
Despite have one torn ball joint boot everthing is pretty tight.
The only descernable play was found on the centerlinkage joing (very minor) the Steering column Ujoint (very minor)
And LOADS of play on the box itself.
This box was installed by my mechanic last year. I guess I have one big concern....
Why would a new box (reman unit) need to be adjusted after 5000 miles? Should I adjust it and forget about it?
Thanks
Anthony
#5
#6
Hi Guys,
I went out today to tighten up the box and re-checked the joints. There is a lot of play in the lower of the 2 joints (the majority).
So the question now is. Can these joints be replaced or is their a "linkage shaft" that includes new joints?
Now an embarassing questions. For the life of me I cannot find a PCV valve....despite having a new one in my hand. Anyone point to where it should be?
Thanks!
Anthony
I went out today to tighten up the box and re-checked the joints. There is a lot of play in the lower of the 2 joints (the majority).
So the question now is. Can these joints be replaced or is their a "linkage shaft" that includes new joints?
Now an embarassing questions. For the life of me I cannot find a PCV valve....despite having a new one in my hand. Anyone point to where it should be?
Thanks!
Anthony
#7
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#8
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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#9
Not sure about terminolgy....found the piece at the online sources
Such as this:
The biggest culprit is the joint on the right (maybe that is the rag joint)
As for the PCV valve I guess it has been removed? I just have a section of hose that vents to the airbox.
Guys thanks for all your help!
Anthony
Such as this:
The biggest culprit is the joint on the right (maybe that is the rag joint)
As for the PCV valve I guess it has been removed? I just have a section of hose that vents to the airbox.
Guys thanks for all your help!
Anthony
#10
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Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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#11
... see if there is any play in the slip joint where the upper column meets the lower column. there is a spring steel clip, and a Teflon bushing in there keeping the two pieces tight. when the clip breaks, the Teflon bushing will either fall out, or travel up into the upper column until it falls off inside.
this will result in approximately 1/4 turn play in the steering wheel with the engine off, and when driving, it will take you the better part of 2 lanes to go straight.
this will result in approximately 1/4 turn play in the steering wheel with the engine off, and when driving, it will take you the better part of 2 lanes to go straight.
#12
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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technically, no. but i have replaced 3 of them so far with bushings removed from columns ruined in front end collisions. it takes time and patience to do. usually it takes me 1 1/2 hour to rebuild a column.
if you can find a good column in a junk yard, it is easier to just change the whole column.
if you can find a good column in a junk yard, it is easier to just change the whole column.
#13
I replaced everything on the front end of my 87 f 150 4x4 except the steering box and steering column. The column appears to be ok But there is excessive free play. After I very slowly adjust the steering box 3 or 4 times test driving after each adjustment each adjustment further decreased steering free play. My friend is a Ford line mechanic, He has had a 95 F 150 4x4 since the 90s. He told me that after hunting season he takes up to 3/4 turn to remove the newly created steering free play. In the end I hope to have a new red top steering box and a Borgeson 980 steering column
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