injectors not firing
#1
#2
#4
pcm bolt snuged up fuses good wts light comes on tach needle moves up some when turning engine over a few times it started and ran for a few minutes lot of white smoke at first it has been scanned twice first time i towed it to dealer they said lost oil pressure under valve cover then i replaced injectors & wiring still no start ford mech came out scanned it again said pcm failed then i replaced pcm,idm,
#6
the day the trouble started i took it in to shop to get 1 injector replaced ran great for 1/4 mile quit running shop said hpop went out replaced ipop& ipr ran for 2-3 weeks quit again that when ford scanned it & said pressure loss under valve cover ifound stuck injector replaced all injectors dont know what pressure is at rail when i pull rail plug it has some pressure
#7
Did the tin nut fall off the back of the new IPR? You should have more than "some pressure" at the head. More in the neighborhood of 500 psi. Do you know anyone with a scanner that can monitor ICP psi & IPR % while cranking?
Sounds like you need to find someone who is willing to find the problem instead of just throwing parts at it. For about $350 you can get your own scanner and try to figure this out yourself.
Sounds like you need to find someone who is willing to find the problem instead of just throwing parts at it. For about $350 you can get your own scanner and try to figure this out yourself.
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#9
AE is the popular scanner if you have a laptop. Dennis has the best pricing on this AutoEnginuity PC Scan Tool (USB)
Yes it will do a buzz test, contribution test, KOEO, KOER, switch test, live data monitoring, data logging, pull & clear codes, etc.
The tin nut is external and sits on the end of the IPR (the side pointed toward the cab) It's been known to come loose or fall off, which will make the IPR quit working and you'll end up with no oil pressure in the heads.
Yes it will do a buzz test, contribution test, KOEO, KOER, switch test, live data monitoring, data logging, pull & clear codes, etc.
The tin nut is external and sits on the end of the IPR (the side pointed toward the cab) It's been known to come loose or fall off, which will make the IPR quit working and you'll end up with no oil pressure in the heads.
#12
FWIW, Buzz Test is useless except to possibly check IDM, won't tell you a darn thing about the injectors. Your motor can pass buzz test without any injectors in it.
Scanning software is helpful to pull codes and to do a Cylinder Contribution Test to determine which injectors aren't firing. But most scanners need to have motor up to at least 160* to do the test. Scanning software won't tell you why the truck won't start, only pull codes.
Good luck.
Scanning software is helpful to pull codes and to do a Cylinder Contribution Test to determine which injectors aren't firing. But most scanners need to have motor up to at least 160* to do the test. Scanning software won't tell you why the truck won't start, only pull codes.
Good luck.
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'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
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'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
#13
I agree the buzz test does not check all of the injector, but are you not of the opinion that a weak buzz could indicate a sticking poppet if you're chasing a cold start/running issue? A weak buzz usually means it's time to find a shop to buy an injector(s).
#14
Join Date: Apr 2004
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Here is a picture that shows where the tin nut is located. It down where the IPR is labeled.
These are some of the worst issues to diagnose since you have had so many parts replaced by different shops. So just so I understand this, it has started and ran recently just won't stay running?
Check the engine oil level on the dip stick. Make sure it is completely full. Also make sure the fuel bowl is full of fuel and while cranking the engine over check for fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the side of the fuel filter housing.
These are some of the worst issues to diagnose since you have had so many parts replaced by different shops. So just so I understand this, it has started and ran recently just won't stay running?
Check the engine oil level on the dip stick. Make sure it is completely full. Also make sure the fuel bowl is full of fuel and while cranking the engine over check for fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the side of the fuel filter housing.
#15