Does anybody have a set of plans or design they can share on a dolly for my 54 cab? It's currently on blocks in the garage and will be a little while before it's ready to go back on the frame. It would be nice if I could roll it around the garage to keep it out of the way. It might also help while I'm working on it. I've got some square tubing laying around that I can join together with the MIG. Anybody see anything they like or can steer me in the right direction? Many thanks!
I built a simple dolly of wood. I used Harbour Freight furniture dolly casters, attached to a square frame of 2x4's. I attached 4-12" 2x4 uprights, supported with some scrap plywood, under the cab mounts.
Measure with a micrometer, mark with a crayon, cut with an axe.
The wood dolly works. I bought a simple $15 furniture moving dolly that my flathead and trans are on. For occasional moving, it works pretty good. It's the same thing as the cab dolly Rhopper mentions, just that his is on a grander scale. However, if you want something more complex, try this: http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...183996&width=2
The rest are just average.
It is the harbor freight wheels (air in them), some lumber, and carpet.
He can roll it around in his gravel driveway by himself.
I have seen other pics he has taken with the cab laying on its back too. He gets help to roll it as needed.
He has a really small garage. As he works on each part..he moves them inside to work on them..then back out for storege. He is media blasting each piece and immediately spraying them with epoxy primer.
I once saw on the net (maybe here?) where a fella made a rotisserie that the cab's rotating axis was thru the center of the missing doors. I think it attached at the hinges and latch points. The result was a cab that could sommersault. I'm not really sure I'd like those stresses on those areas. Sure would be a bear to do a bunch of work, cutting and patching, and come to find out something tweaked and the door gaps are goofy...
Proud new owner of a 1956 Ford C-600 !
If your not looking to buils something to raise it to a workable hieght...then just find 4 good (big) dolly wheels and bolt them directly to the cab's 4 mounting locations...they just have to be taller than the depth of the cab skirts to the floor.
What Mama Don't Know....Keeps Daddy Out Of Trouble !!!
I used a 4ft pallet, and a couple pieces of 4x4 (against the cab floor, left to right)
and casters from home depot.. (slightly more than from HF but they lock) make sure you get locking casters!.. amazing how easy it is to move when you don't want it to...
for stability, I used some allthread rod to bolt the 4x4 and pallet together before putting the casters on. I countersunk the nut/washer on the 4x4 and pallet sides.
the 4x4 gives you a decent amount of room to work on the floor, except for the actual floor to firewall edge. I moved the front 4x4 back about 6 inches to get that work room.
The cab cart idea is one that bit me last year .... and after some chat with several very good rod builders, I decided to make use of something I already had ... another frame. I'm rehabbing an F1 (48) but the concept is essentially the same for a 54. I used an F6 frame ... cut off all but what was needed to support the cab, added casters, and thus was able to use the original 6 mounting locations to make sure the cab wasn't being tweaked out of square for all I've done on it. It's not a rotisserie, but for the work done so far, that wasn't needed. The F6 frames are often very cheaply found (mine was free) .... they are double railed from the cab back, and typically are no good because of rust between the two layers of material. Also .... the F6 frame has an extra cross-member involved that goes across at the rear cab mounts. It is very sturdy .. fits perfectly, and was ultra cheap to build. I'll post a photo later of it. The 54 2 ton trucks have the same cab mounts as the 1/2 ton pickup ... so I have been told ..... so the same idea should work.
BTW ... the cab rotisserie Havi referred to was for a GMC COE cab .... a friend of mine built that .... and did have some trouble with the door fit afterwards. Of course those
GM COE cabs were notoriously weak .... making it very hard to keep things straight
no matter what.
My next task will be to build a cab rotisserie, but it will bolt in at a number of places
to avoid literally bending the cab.
I did a cart similar to Roberts.Mine is about 2 1/2 feet high with casters at all four corners.I made it long enough that I could put my panel body on it.I also made an adapter that let me roll the whole thing cart and body up on my four post lift so I could get under it to work on the body.It works great for body work as you can raise the body to any height to work on the sides.I also was able to hang the body from the ceiling and raise the frame under it to mate them.The cart also makes a great work bench with a piece of plywood laid on it,or a nice place to sit parts for painting.What ever you chose to do make it so you can us it for more than one thing.If you make it low just to sit the body on then make it strong enough to use for a motor and trans to sit on to move around the shop.remember every large tool we have takes space we do not have.check my gallery for pictures.
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