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78 f100 dies when starting out of a stop

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Old 12-15-2008, 09:34 PM
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78 f100 dies when starting out of a stop

So the last little functional problem I seem to have with my 302 is this.

Step 1: Stop at a stop sign.
Step 2: Hit the gas.
Step 3: Restart engine.
Step 4: Drive away before people look at you funny.

Seems to happen consistently. I can sometimes drive for 15 minutes before it'll happen again. I will mention this. The engine idles quite high and I have to pull the pedal up off the floor to get it to idle back down. Every so often the pedal "sticks" and I have to push it to the floor with some pressure to get it to go. This is when it seems to cause the engine to die.

Could this be just flooding the carb causing the engine to die and I really just have a carb linkage issue?
 
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Old 12-15-2008, 10:00 PM
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For the acceleration issue, pull the air cleaner off with the truck shut off and look down the throat of the carb. Pull the throttle back and watch for two streams of gas to shoot at the venturis.

For the pedal issue, take a look at the bracket on the firewall that mounts the throttle cable to the pedal lever and check for binding. Check where the throttle cable connects to the carburetor on the driver side and check for binding again. Spray it with carb cleaner if it looks "gummy."
 
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Old 12-15-2008, 11:41 PM
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I'd check to see that your accelerator pump is working like fmc was suggesting. It could be that you're starving for gas when you open up the butterflies and try to go...possibly in conjunction with other carb issues too, like maybe too lean on your idle mixture screws perhaps? or a vacuum leak?

I'd guess the linkage problem is another issue, though something you should definately try to fix too.
 
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Old 12-16-2008, 01:22 AM
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check linkage, carb, plugs,cap and rotor
 
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Old 12-16-2008, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by fmc400
For the acceleration issue, pull the air cleaner off with the truck shut off and look down the throat of the carb. Pull the throttle back and watch for two streams of gas to shoot at the venturis.

For the pedal issue, take a look at the bracket on the firewall that mounts the throttle cable to the pedal lever and check for binding. Check where the throttle cable connects to the carburetor on the driver side and check for binding again. Spray it with carb cleaner if it looks "gummy."

I see the two little jets, looks like a squirt gun. I'll investigate the cable a little more, I didn't see anything upon first inspection but I'll give it another go.

check linkage, carb, plugs,cap and rotor
New plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil. What exactly should I be checking on the carb and linkage?
 
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Old 12-16-2008, 06:29 PM
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I noticed that if i take my finger and push the linkage as if someone had basically rested their foot on the pedal, I can let it go and it'll come back. Now I can pull it back maybe 1/16th of an inch and I here a little click or pop.
 
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Old 12-16-2008, 06:35 PM
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Bogging down, sputtering, engine dying when accelerating from a dead stop:

Typical Ford 2V carb problem.

Usually when punching the gas pedal at speed, the same thing will occur.

C4AZ9B559A .. Accelerator Pump Diaphram (Motorcraft CM463)

C4AZ9576A .. Accelerator Pump Check Valve (Motorcraft CM825)

Fits: All Ford 2V's from 1962 thru 1974.

The diaphram and check valve are located behind a 4 bolt cover (has a lever on it) on the front of the carb.

Be very CAREFUL when removing the cover, there's a coil spring behind it.

That coil spring will fly out and when looking around for it, you might step on it.
 
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Old 12-16-2008, 07:04 PM
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I actually have a pump diaphram, but I don't know what a pump check valve looks like. Are you talking about the tiny little valve behind the return spring?
 
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Old 12-16-2008, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Casey_78
I actually have a pump diaphram, but I don't know what a pump check valve looks like. Are you talking about the tiny little valve behind the return spring?
The check valve is round (reddish in color) with a tit on it that usually breaks off, it's behind the diaphram, not in front of it.
 
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Old 12-16-2008, 08:11 PM
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Is that the "Elastomer Valve" ?
 
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Old 12-16-2008, 10:13 PM
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Alright i've got the whole carb off and took it apart, I see what you're talkin about and yes I have all those pieces. wish me luck.
 
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Old 12-16-2008, 10:26 PM
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Question for you carb experts, coming off the choke housing is a foot long rigid metal cable, very rigid. Its not connected to anything else, i hate to speculate but almost looks like a sensor.
 
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Old 12-17-2008, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Casey_78
Question for you carb experts, coming off the choke housing is a foot long rigid metal cable, very rigid. Its not connected to anything else, i hate to speculate but almost looks like a sensor.
302: That's the hot air tube for the choke:

D7DZ9819B .. Thermostac Choke Control Outlet Tube (Motorcraft CM2412)

Someone prolly plugged up the end of it.

There's no cable or sensor like you describe used on the choke housing.
 
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Old 12-17-2008, 07:45 PM
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HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM!

So I replaced the diaphram and the little valve (rubber nipple thingy) and now my little squirt guns aren't working... what did I do?

I did also replace the large body gasket.
 
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Old 12-17-2008, 07:57 PM
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Seem to be working again, must have just been air in the line.
 


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