I have an E250 converted to a fully self contained camper by Coachmen then I had it converted to a E350 frame/suspension and 4x4.

The only clearance issues are off road. The fenders in front of the tires get rubbed about half way into a uturn. I just bent the inner lip up,but really need a 2 inch lift I think. It may not be enough If I push the off road bit. All I need is to get in a position that binds the tire against the fender and I cant back out or jack the body up.
TommyGunn

 

welcome to fte!!!!

On the cheap side. I may suggest just trimming the fender where it might rub....
But how much lift would you be look for?

 

Its fine as it is except for the problem below. Two inches wouldnt bother me ,I dont think,but I dont want to go higher or cut my fenders too much. I may just have to compromise between how much i cut and what uneven terrsain I get into.
Again as Ive probably said before,on the street is where it rubs when turning sharper than a std left turn. I just bent the fenders up and inward (abt a 3x4 in section) Cant see the bend easily.

The problem will be off road. I havent tried anything angled enough to really bind on them yet.
I dont want to find myself continually cutting back the fender to get it to fit each circumstance I would be in.
What I really need to do is see what others have had sucess with .
The examples would have to be with what ever years shared the identilcle body model , (with the same mods)
.
BTW : It has BFG A/T 295-75 16 , 33 inches ht and 10" wide @tread
With the tires straight ahead ,there is 2 inches between tire & bumper or fender. The problem again is in a tight turn ,L or R ,the tires/fenders meet. Currently,I just stop the truck at that point turn the wheel just past the contact point and resume .
You can see how much trouble that is though.
Guess I could put on the 2 inch lift and see. How about airbags in front? Anyone done that?

TG

 

Well i dont know of any people rocking the vans... You might search around and see if you can find a 2" leveling kit for a 350 or so, that should give you the 2" your looking for, and if you need to do the rear, you can put a 2" block, came factory on f250's...

 

As I recall, Vans use a coils spring suspension for these types of conversions. IS this correct or are you using some other type of suspension?
What type os vehicle was the suspension from, and which front axle are you using?
There are a few options here, and it could be a real simple procedure.
If you run leaf springs you may try something as simple as a zero rate leaf kit:
Add a Leafs, Zero Rate for 4x4 Suspensions from Offroad Design
This will provide some lift and it will give you the option to move the axle foward slightly. If you have leaf springs and the shackle is in the rear the axle will move towards the rear during suspension compression, so this might be a real good alternative.

I do not recall any van conversions using leafs though. I remember the frames being too wide to run a leaf under them, and believe that you might just have coil springs.
This being the case, you could have the spring buckets lowered by the amount of lift that you require, or you could re-drill the radius arm bracets to re-locate the axle foward to maintain the clearance needed.
Slightly longer coils will provide additional lift, and keep in mind that potential caster corrections will have to be made if you change the current ride heigth.
With a coil spring, you also have the option of installing a coils spring spacer. There are pleny on the market, and seem to be reasonable solutions for small ride heigth adjustments.
Perhaps with a little more information regarding your application, we can be of a little more assistance.
I have some parts here at my shop (So.Ca also, not far from Palm Springs) and might be able to offer some assistance.
Just really need to know what you have done to convert this rig, and which style of suspension you are using.

 

The original chassis was replaced with a F350 chassis. It has leaf springs.

I can always go take pics of the specific areas if you need them and post.
On secontd thought,I couldnt see how to upload pic other than the avtar and the pic you see was as large as it would allow. I have seen other pics on this site that were larger,but havent a clue how it was done. I belong to about 5 other forums dealing with other cars etc and have had no trouble posting large pics,so I dont know what Im missing with pic posting on this forum.
Any ideas?

 

I dont need a pic, just need to know what year we are working with. This will determine which option is best for you. Since you have leafs springs. This Zero Rate option might be a reasonable option as this will not hinder the current ride quality.
Hanger kits and larger leafs are another option. I am assuming that you have inverted "T" style steering, and this will accomodate just about any small changes in lift that you will be looking into.
This is getting easier and easier as we learn more about your rig.
IS the current chassis set-up and suspension completely stock for this year of chassis?
If yes, then we just have to look into leveling kit options to gain just that little extra heigth. Vans have a funny shaped fender, and all conversions have clearance issues just in front of the door.
The year of the chassis that you used would be very helpfull.

 

Ill go find the spec sheet . Give me a few minutes. I do have the wife home right now getting ready for xmas..you know,kicking me out of the house while she does her thing.
TG

 

Very well. This will determine which style spring and shackle design that you have. I am assuming that it is not a SUper Duty chassis (99-04) and is more likely an 80's or 90's chassis, but we just want to make sure, so we can provide some accurate information for you.
The year of the chassis will determine whether or not the upgrade options will be bolt in or will require a little further modification.
Trying to keep this as simple as possible.
Kind of looking like a simple spring upgrade like a leveling kit will get you the heigth that you need. Would be a great idea to actually cycle the suspension completely to verify this, but we can get you on the right track.
Cool vehicle by the way. Interesting concept.
I have seen this in person!
YouTube - Quigley 4x4 Ford Van in Moab

 

OK,here it is. I called the Salem Kroger MFG that did the 4x4 conversion for me. "Craig" said they do not replace the chassis,but upgraded with all the necessary "350" components r suspension parts,eg axles etc.
I mentiond the issue I was discussing on this forum. He said there were three option. One is the Zero rate option,the other was replacement of the metal with a kit made for clearance(if there are any for this year van)The other was spring replacement etc as I recall.
The zero Rate sounded fine to him too.
By the way,how should my leafs look..level, arched up or slightly down.
FYI the van is fully self contained (fsc) and weighs a bit.
TG

 

This is starting to make some more sense. Most conversion companies do it this way, though i usually see coils, so that being said, your springs are probably taken on a terribly flat look. This is robably due to the fat that you have quite a bit more weight over the front axle than a typical pick-up truck might see. So this means a more aggressive rate would be recommended, unless the company already took this into consideration when they put the van together.
I always like to see some pos arch to springs. This gives then more movement and provides superior articulation while off-road.
Again a slightly longer shackle and spring hanger would also help
The Zero Rate option is quick and easy, and provides you with the option of relocating the axle slightly.
Replacement springs is probably the final option.
Well, lets see, there is an alternative, and this was mentioned above. The add-a-leaf is an option, but I fear that this will really disturb the ride of the vehicle, and make it very stiff, even with the extra weight.
Have you checked all of these clearances with the vehicle at camping weight (wet and full of food / supplies?)

 

1 Yes they have a neg arch

2 It rides great since I got larger tires. the 245's transmitted too much bang,thump etc I hated it.

3 Weight: No havent weighd it full or empty

This may be helpful.
GVWR 8100 lb F 3250 R5300
TG

 

FYI
In case you need to know the amount of lift I have:
Front. I measured ground to the BODY ,not frame,just at the rear and above the anchor point of the Rt F leaf spring. Where body is bolted to frame. It was27.5".
The rear has 4' blocks,but due to airbags I didnt bother measuring.
Is there a better point to measure or is this close enough ?

 

Not really, since there is not much of a reference to compare, it makes it a little difficult to tell. My biggest concern right now is that with a Zero Rate option this migh cure only the unloaded solution and you may find the same problem with clearance when you load this thing up. Holding tanks and so forth can get heavy, and since this is a van, some of the weight is distributed a little differently than a truck.
Another concern is that with the larger capacity springs that might be required to accommodate the weight when the van is loaded might cause a compromise in ride quality when the van is empty.
Just trying to cover all of the bases here, since this is all speculation. Kind of using the "wag" method here (wild **** guess).
Your fabricator had suggested perhaps a different set of brackets or hangers that the springs actually attach to the frame. Where he (I believe Craig) This will lower the spring mounting points and basically lift the ride heigth of the vehicle. This will not have any adverse effect on your current ride, but I do suggest that you simulate a load on the vehicle as it sits now so there are not a surprise after your upgrade.
I would hate to see you spend money on an upgrade and find that once loaded you are in the same boat (no pun intended, though it is kind of funny though)

 

So as I see it my choices are as follows: (while maintaining ride quality)
Lengthen spring mount shackles which will raise the front. My ride remains the same.Do a trial and error in the field and see how it goes.
If I still have clearance issues,then my choice could be longer shackles , the zero rate or cut metal.
1 What Shackle lengths are available?
2 what is the max recommended?
3 at what length do I have to consider brake line change or steering geometry problems? 2 inches?