Hey guys......

I'm in the market for a lightly-used pickup or SUV around 15-20K, and need some help.

I've currently got an '06 Tundra Double-Cab 4WD, which lease expires this spring, and I can't wait to get rid of it (lots of problems, and sorry excuse for a tow rig)

I need a truck that will do several things for me (plow my small driveway, and haul lots of stuff, which just about any PU will do).........the deal-breaker is the new travel trailer I just bought. It's a 2006 Aruba 30 Ft TT, dry weight is about 7000#.

I pulled it with the Tundra (6500# max) to put it into storage, approx 10 miles, using a Reese Dual-Cam anti-sway and WD hitch, along with a Prodigy brake controller, and it was the scariest 10 miles of my life. The Tundra can hardly get it moving (4.7L, 271hp and 313 ft/lb) and the truck is ALL OVER the road with it. Granted, the rig was over weight by a few hundred pounds, but after towing a few different trailers with this truck, I think the honest tow rating should be more like 4500#. So, ratings don't always tell you how confidence-inspiring a truck will be when towing.

First of all, I'm not a full-time RV'er. I live in Northern Michigan (which has some hills), and at this point, I'm limited to 5 or 6 camping trips each summer........most of them would be a couple hundred miles each, though I would love to see the country someday (so, the possibility is there for A FEW 1000+ mile trips).

I know I'd never regret getting a 3/4 ton truck from a towing perspective, and I've seriously thought about a 2500 series Suburban with the 8.1L big block, which will tow 12,000 pounds. But, they're really hard to find, and I'm not all that excited about it. I am not a fan of the SD trucks, the 2 I've driven had vague steering, squishy brake feel, and the interior design and quality is not nearly as nice as the F150s IMHO. The Dodge Quad Cab is too tight in the back for my family, and the Mega Cab is HUGE.

I'd RATHER have an 04/05/06 F150 Super Crew, 4WD, 5.4L Triton Lariat (with the 3.73, rated for 9200#, less 500# if it has 18 or 20 inch wheels, why-ever that matters I'm not sure)..........I drove an XLT a couple years ago, and was impressed. Tight truck, nice build quality and materials, etc. It's either this, or a 3/4 Burb.

Questions about towing this rig:

1) How will the truck HANDLE this load? Stability? Sway? Squat in the rear? I have a Reese Dual Cam Anti-Sway WD hitch, with 750# load bars.

2) Power.......will there be any? Enough to maintain 55 or 60 up long hills? Any power-adders to help?

3) Mileage is going to stink, I am guessing 8 or 9 towing.

Any thoughts? Is this too much trailer for this truck, and will I regret buying it? I DO NOT WANT any sway whatsoever. I want the truck to be rock-solid when towing.

I realize if I'm at 7000# empty, + 300# in passengers, + 500 in gear, + 200 with a topper, that around 8000#........which is a solid 1200 less than the truck is rated for (700 if it's got the large wheels). Is this enough margin?

I've heard from a few people that they like to have 20% in reserve (ie, max weight of 7360 in this case). I'm at about 86%, but numbers aren't everything.

Unfortunately, the trailer is off-site in storage, and I can't get to it until April, at which point I already need to have a new truck (so I can't test-haul it with a prospective truck).

Any thoughts appreciated.

Ben

 

my business partner spent this season and probably next towing a 1990 35' Dutchman listed at 5600# Dry. His truck is an '04 new style, 5.4, 3.73, 4x4. Only thing he would prefer is longer wheelbase. He has crewcab with 5.5' bed. It's enough suspension, and enough engine. His wheel base actually limits him to 72 or 7300 max towing. if you're going for the longer bed with the 9300 you should be all set.

The 20" wheel limit has to do with the amount of torque require to turn the wheel assembly with the mass of the wheels pushed further from the center point. Think of when you were a kid spinning on a swing ( or if you ever got stuck watching figure skating in the Olympics). If you tuck your arms and legs in you spin faster, if you let them stick out it will slow you down. same works in reverse. if the mass is further from center, it takes more umph to get it turning than if the mass was closer. This is assuming the overall diameter of 18 and 20" tire is the same. If the diameter is larger, you add to the equation the effect of going to a higher final gear ratio.

 

Gotcha.

Check out this link:

http://www.fordvehicles.com/assets/p...F15_towing.pdf

I want a SuperCrew, Short Box (5.5') 4WD, with 5.4L and 3.73.......it shows 9300# capacity as long as it's not a Harley Davidson model. Am I reading it right???

Thanks! Ben

 

No sway whatsoever may be pushing it a little bit. A friend of mine pulls with a Hensley Arrow WD and anti-sway hitch setup. It is probably the best out there in terms of limiting trailer sway and for the price, should be. Even with this, you will sometimes feel it when a big rig goes by, etc. Not uncontrollable, but there none the less.

An F-150 with the 6 1/2 foot bed 5.4 and 3.73 should do fine. These trucks are solid and tow well. It sounds like you've got a good hitch setup so that should be fine. The engine should have plenty of power for your purposes. The 5.4 is a great engine. I've had two in different vehicles prior to getting my diesel and they were excellent at pulling trailers anywhere, anytime.

If it weren't for getting a fifth wheel camper, I'd probably go back to an F-150 Supercrew tomorrow. Don't forget though, to figure in the weight if you top off your fresh water tanks, etc. That will add weight as well but from what you're describing here, I think you'll be fine.

The nice thing about the F-150 vs. the Suburban too is that you can haul anything you want to in the back of the F-150 no matter how dirty and just hose it out when you're done! You will probably get better all around fuel mileage loaded and unloaded too.

Also, with regard to the rear squatting - If you are using the WD hitch correctly, that will be minimized when you adjust the spring bars on the hitch.

 

Yeah, you're reading it right and should be fine with the weight you are talking about. Good Luck!

 

I had a 00 F150, ext cab, 4x4, 5.4 with 3.55 rear and towed a 6700# (actual weight), 24 ft TT for 3 years without a problem. The 5.4 is a great engine, especially with a tune (I had a SuperChips 1715).

To answer your questions -
1) If you do have any swat issues, those can easily be resolved with aftermarket items like airbags, or my favorite - the RoadMaster Active Suspension. For sway, your Reese Dual Cam should do handle that with proper set up.

2) I towed my combination up to Boone NC with 6-7% grades and maintained the 35 MPH posted limit... I could surpass it, but it is a winding/curvy climb and there was no reason to go any faster. We also went to Fl several times and it was easy to keep up with traffic.

3) Yeah you pretty much hit the MPGs about right. If I recall correctly the best I got was 11 mpg in Fl on flat terrain, typically I got between 8 & 10, but as low as 7 in the mountains.

I'm a little concerned that your Reese bars are only 750#. Typically you can figure about 10% for tounge weight and you said your TT is 7000# dry... so loaded you could be over the weight for those bars. (this is an estimate, only a scale will give your true tounge weight).

When choosing a TV there are a few more factors to consider other than the 'advertised towing capacity'. As mentioned, the wheel base can make a big difference as well as the TV weight. In an ideal world, you want your TV to weigh at least equal to your trailer - which is why I think the Toyota is not a good TV... it's too light. And don't forget your GCVWR. You can get a TV rated to tow 7000#, but that is based on a 'base model curb weight', not the 'out the door' weight (after adding all options).

There are a lot of different views out there about what makes a good TV to TT combination so the best thing I can say is "read, read, read".

You can find tons of excellent informaiton here -> RV Towing Tips

You can also find additional sources on Trailer Life and the Open Roads Forum (part of the RV.net family).

 

Ben,

As long as you get it all set up correctly the F150 will be a great tow vehicle for that trailer.

Mark gave you some great advice but I need to make one comment about it. You have to take what you read and consider the sources very carefully. A lot of the forums you will read censor the information posted so you won't quite get the entire story. What you get is anecdotal evidence. I have been in the hitch business for over 11 years and I can't tell you the number of times I have read flat out WRONG information, often dangerous, written in a forum post.

 

Thanks guys for the great info!

Mark, if you can tow a 6700# rig with 3.55 gears, I should be OK))

((Yes, 750# bars are what the RV dealer sold me when I bought the trailer in September. I have the Draw-Tite 3202 setup. Looks like they make a 1000# round bar in the 3203 setup. Can I just buy the stronger bars, or do I need different snap brackets, etc?))

Will I notice a big difference in stability and sway between the 139 and 150" wheelbase SuperCabs?

Thx, Ben

 

Sean,

Thanks for your input, too, all very good!

 

I'm going to disagree - I towed a 5k TT with an '04 F150, and I was not happy with the performance. And I had 3:73 with the 3 valve 5.4 motor.

I agree the interior of the F150 is nicer, but my SD handles towing so effortlessly that I cannot imagine ever going back to a small motor.

If your idea of towing fun is 3rd gear reving 4k RPM, then you might like the F150. Realistically, it won't be much better than your Tundra.

 

I tow 7500lbs with my 02 F150 with 3.55s... yes, it does the job, but the F250 will do it a lot better. Even with the same engine, the F250 will do it easier and better than the F150 will. Tundras and F150's are very similar... if you don't like one, you won't like the other. The F150 will definately do a BETTER job, but it won't be a miricle.

 

The only way I'm going to know for certain if I'm happy with it is to test-tow it. My trailer is in storage, and I can't get it out until April...........

A second best way is to find a trailer that is similar in weight to mine, and to haul it instead. My friend has a heavy-duty tandem-axle trailer that we can put a car on, total weight 7000-8000#.........all I need to do is find a 3.73-equipped 5.4L F150 and take it for a test-drive to haul the trailer. I'll do this in a week or two when I have a chance.

Saw a King Ranch '06 for sale at a dealer tonight, after hours.....it was locked, but I was able to peek inside. Very nice, as I remember them.............boy, the 5.5 foot bed IS short I might need a 6.5' bed for my needs..........

 

U might be a little pessimistic on the weight of that trailer - if it has 2 axles they are likely 3500#'ers and the loaded weight is that (2x3500). 5500 is a decent starting estimate for a 30 foot trailer (of course you never tow with water or sewage)

F150 should be fine

 

I just like the superduty, because it heavier (trailer will not push you) & has a lot better brake
SAFETY is #1 in my book. the 5.4 will not win any races, but it will pull the camper
without a lot of problems

 

Trailer is an Aruba 298BHS (new model name, same floorplan as mine). According to Arubarv.com , it has a no-option weight of 6500#.......mine was 6800# or so (awning, hide-bed, dual tank options).

The truck will have a fiberglass topper installed, so I am rounding the trailer weight up 200# and calling it 7000 lbs.

The tongue weight IS an issue.........it shows that trailer having a tongue weight of 849 lbs empty, so I need to upgrade to 1000# or 1200# bars.