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cam swap thread

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  #31  
Old 11-08-2008, 02:16 PM
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Double check you have the right size tool there are 4 sizes that I'm aware of. The tool should be tight over the male end of the fuel line. If there is a gap between the fuel line and the tool it's to big.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuWQII6C4Uc

Check out this vid he's changing a fuel filter but the way the lines work is the same.
 
  #32  
Old 11-08-2008, 08:00 PM
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yep, disconnecting these fuel lines is a bear. Someone does not a swift kick! Changing the darn fuel filter has been the hardest thing for me on my truck! You disconnect the fuel lines where you are doing it the same way when you change the filter. Do a search on this forum under fuel filter. The disconnect tool you have is the right one, but a tool that has the part that goes into the fuel that is longer in length might work better.
By the way, cool of your mother to pick up an auto part for you!
 
  #33  
Old 11-09-2008, 06:37 PM
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Could someone tell me real quick which timing set will be best for my truck. Im ordering parts tonight. I dont know anything about the advance, retard and roller or not.Timing Chain and Gear Sets - summitracing.com

Also which of these is the right tool for disconnecting fuel lines. apparently the one i have is wrong.Gasoline, FORD - summitracing.com
 
  #34  
Old 11-09-2008, 06:45 PM
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Double rollers are best. No need to advance or retard the cam just set it up "strait up".
Cam timing is important but, your not going to want to take it all apart again to adjust the cam timing, nor are you likely to go through all the hassle of "degreeing" the cam. Just set it up strait up with a basic double roller timing chain and enjoy.

Looks like the Cloyes C3057 is the best deal it's a double roller of good quality. I'm not sure which fuel pump eccentric you have, you need to double check. You don't have any use for anything more. Many aftermartket companys like Edelbrock just buy and resell Cloyes.

I use a tool just like W83114 and haven't had any problems.
 
  #35  
Old 11-09-2008, 07:20 PM
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ok sounds good. how do i check the fuel pump eccentric?
 
  #36  
Old 11-09-2008, 07:55 PM
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It's obvious, the one peice is just a steal cam (offset circle). The two peice is stamped steal and has a round cylinder bushing (peice one) that rides around an offset cam that is smaller also stamped (peice two)

Edit. Nevermind I forgot your truck is fuel injected and doesn't have a fuel pump eccentric so it doesn't matter.
 
  #37  
Old 11-09-2008, 08:16 PM
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so it doesnt matter at all which timing set i get?
 
  #38  
Old 11-09-2008, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by paintslinga2010
so it doesnt matter at all which timing set i get?
No it doesn't
 
  #39  
Old 11-09-2008, 09:26 PM
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It has been said before, but let me remind you to relieve the pressure on the fuel lines, it is all but impossible to get the connector apart with pressure in the lines...
 
  #40  
Old 11-09-2008, 09:52 PM
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yeah i pressed in the schrader valve on the fuel rail with a screwdriver until gas stopped coming out, so im guessing that completely relieved the pressure. Ill try again though.
 
  #41  
Old 11-10-2008, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Xclimation
yep, disconnecting these fuel lines is a bear. Someone does not a swift kick! Changing the darn fuel filter has been the hardest thing for me on my truck! You disconnect the fuel lines where you are doing it the same way when you change the filter. Do a search on this forum under fuel filter. The disconnect tool you have is the right one, but a tool that has the part that goes into the fuel that is longer in length might work better.
By the way, cool of your mother to pick up an auto part for you!
OOps! Meant to say, someone DOES need a swift kick on this design!
 
  #42  
Old 11-14-2008, 07:12 PM
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Im to the point of tearing stuff up now. I made myself come inside and vent on here before i did tear something up.
I have the balancer and timing cover off. all i need is to pull the lower. but i cant because of the damn FUEL LINES. WHY?!! ive sprayed pb blaster all over that thing for the past 3 days, the roundish end moves a little bit back and forth but not much. why is this so damn hard. I have all my parts in and ready to go and the only thing in my way is fuel lines. thats the last thing i thought i would have a problem with on the truck.

Are there any alternatives? Ihave even thought about pulling the line off the fuel filter or wherever the next connector is. help and support needed. thanks
 
  #43  
Old 11-14-2008, 09:54 PM
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Put that tool on a shelf some where and remove the 2 bolts holding down the fuel rails on each side and wiggle the fuel rail off the top side of the injectors. Then tie the whole thing up out of the way. Some people make these things soooooo hard. Dont let anyone on here tell you that cant be done. I have removed fuel rails like that several times .

Just dont sit something down on top of the injectors. You can even pull the injectors out and change them too now if your interested.
 
  #44  
Old 11-15-2008, 09:43 AM
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ok if you havent ordered parts yet, do not order the motorsport complete set its meant a 5.0 , NOT 5.8 , you want the metal/rubber valve cover gaskets , and the lastest listing on the 5.8 intake set ver the ford parts counter its a rubber end seal kit, youll have to buy the upper seprerate, pn you want, m-6584-a50 for the valve cover gaskets, or the f1zz6584b , the motorsport are cheaper, the intake set you want is a foaz9433a it has rubber end seals, and the upper you want is e8tz9h486a , the sensor is a ect not a temp sender, f2az12a648a, ford list is 48.98 bucks before you go buying an aftermarket
 
  #45  
Old 11-15-2008, 04:50 PM
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Made some progress today, but ran into a road block. I pulled the injectors off the fuel rail, which allowed me to get the loer intake off. Only problem is the bolt closest to the front of the truck on the drivers side snapped off like a toothpick. It broke down in the block flush, so there is nothing to grab onto. Not sure what im gonna do on this one.
Again suggestions are appreciated.
 


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