yep, as long as it's not already cracked. Just make sure you leave enough room for the egr cooler to mate to the y pipe flange. weld the cap deep enough to give you 1/16-1/8 inch clearance.

only if you get a custom tuner will you not get a CEL. Some will drill a hole in the welded plug to allow a small amount of hot gasses to pass through to try an eliminate a PO401 fault code.
just get a custom tuner which will turn it off, sell your Bully dog and with that cash, try out an SCT tuner, you'll love it.

 

I believe i have a late model 04. I recently (1 week ago) pulled the plug on the EGR
to see what would happen. No CEL. Once the blocker plates are welded in should i leave
the EGR disconnected or should i plug it back in? Do i need to drill a small hole to let
a breeze through?

 

I just finished my egr delete. I didn't want to remove the downpipe as it seemed you would have to remove the crossmember from under the transmission to get it out. So I just disconnected it. It took me almost five hours to complete the job. I should have removed the crossmember as that downpipe drove me crazy trying to work around it. I pressed a 35 mm stainless freeze plug in the y-pipe and spot-welded a large washer behind it so it will never come out. Thanks Benchwrench for showing me how its done. You probably saved me a ton of money down the road.

Randy

 

Any parts or Hardware I should get before a pull the up pipe,cut the
scoop and weld a plug (Clamps, bolts any gaskets etc.) How about the EGR cooler
( intake gaskets, bolts clamps?) I have been searching for instructions
on removing Fuel and Oil filter housing. Does anybody have a link?
What about the turbo looks like it's got to go also, any hardware
needed for this? ( o-rings for the oil lines etc.) Will there be much
coolant in the cooler coolant side? Should I leave the EGR valve
disconnected? It currently is and have not had a CEL. Should I also
remove the throttle plate?

Thanks for your help, Great write-up Benchwrench.

 

Whatever you guys do, don't waste your time and "modify" the OEM up pipe like I did. Towing this past Summer it didn't last but 6 months.

The OEM up pipe has 3 supports; the manifold, the EGR cooler, and the Turbo.
Once the "y" is taken out of the equation, there is not enough stability to support the 2 piece pipe. The pipe is joined with an acordian section of stainless steel which gives it a little bit of flexibility. It also is a WEAK connection and will ultimately fail over time which will cause an exhaust leak. This leak will cause 3 things to occur:
1. The exhaust will find it's way in the cabin. especially when vehicle is stopped.
2. The acordian "flex" connection will crack and exhaust will exit causing a "whistle" at certain RPM.
3. You will have to do an Up-pipe R&R all over again!

So there is no sense doing the job twice.
My advice is to obtain an aftermarket SOLID up pipe, remove the old "y" pipe and just replace it! It' might be fun to modify and play with the old pipe but if you can't sleeve it or make it a solid, just buy one already made up. It'll be worth it in the long run. A solid up pipe should go for around $130.

 

To anyone interested, firstcoastdieselperformance.com has solid EGR "uppipe" on thier site for $210.00, comes w/blockoff plate for EGR cooler. FYI

 

Once I drove a freeze plug into the EGR outlet of the uppipe I bolted it back on as it was before I removed it. I assume this should make it as strong as it came from the factory. I sure hate to pay $210.00 for another pipe when my fix cost me 79 cents. I sure hope it works this way as I do not want to do that job again.

 

Thanks for the update! I am doing this today. I will just block the y in the up-pipe and re-clamp to the cooler for support.

 

Just had to install a new up pipe, after the factory one failed. Shop that did my EGC delete decieded to just plug the factory pipe instead of replacing it with the kit supplied up pipe. Lasted about 2 weeks B4 it blew out. (mechanics idea to plug it, Owner of the shop was pissed when he found out the tech did this to 6 other customers).
Long story short, this write up, made it pretty easy. You still have to be a contortionist with the factory up pipe in the way, and my son and I had a real cussfest in the driveway, but did make it much easier. And I pick up my Free Airbags from the shop on Monday.
Thanks Benchwrench NICE JOB!

 

Any recommendations on a "solid up pipe"? Sinister Diesel has one, but they're on eBay... So... Not sure.

Maybe I'll just take the time now to install larger diameter plumbing all around. The cab will be off anyways to do the head studs, so if ever there was a good time, now is it...

 

I just want comment on my previous post.

I found out that the exhaust leak wasn't from my modded EGR pipe previously thought.
It was the "Y" pipe above it! The one mounted at the turbo was the culprit.

My modded EGR up pipe is solid as a rock and it's been working just fine.
I did however replace it with a solid pipe only because I thought it was busted when I had to replace the busted turbo Y pipe.
Oh well ...

 

I have a 05 with a delete (throwing p0403 code) and I want to cut the up-pipe scoop and throw on a bulletproof egr so I can pass CA smog. Will cutting the scoop out and not blocking it off at all throw a low flow code? Has anyone tried this and had success on their 05.5-07? (I can't get a straight answer)

I have solid up-pipe that I can cut and wield the t part on, should I just do this or just cut the scoop out of the original (if it won't throw a code)?

I'm doing this because I want better similar flow as I would get with a upgrade up-pipe and still pass smog. (I have a tuner to turn of the egr, but the smog people know if you did this) Currently at 553wrhp

 

Just cut the scoop out. Having it gone won't throw a code for insufficient flow.

Josh

 

I know this is a really old thread but I am hoping someone can answer a couple of questions for me as I am about to do this to my 04. Does the down pipe have to be completely removed or just unbolted from the turbo and pushed back? Are there any gaskets that need to be replaced? How the heck do you get the bolts back in after the modification is complete?

 

For the sake of your own sanity and knuckles. Remove the Down pipe!!!. Spend a week soaking the bolts prior to disassembly. The bolts for the top up pipe connection are easily accessible from the turbo area with it removed. They are behind a small 4X6 heat shield riveted to the turbo Y pipe. I drilled out the rivets and removed the shield. With the down pipe removed you can easily get a regular ratchet with a thin wall socket and a 6pt wrench on the bolts at the exhaust manifold. With the down pipe gone there is alot of room behind the engine. The EGR cooler is held to the bottom of the intake with 2 bolts that drop through the top of the intake. 1 is a stud and 1 is a bolt. there is a tab at the back of the intake on the inside of the intake that is the 3rd bolt. The V band clamp and the Coolant line.