we've established stage two's w/ a chip and intake should put out more than 25psi. but my turbo makes no noise it just spools up slow. any clues to watch for to tell me if it's going bad? leaking exhaust or intake tubes might cause lower boost? i have no clue.

 

check for soot on and around the exhaust from the manifolds to the turbo. (manifolds, up pipes, and the connections where they meet each other. how are your egts?

 

1) Check for boost leaks

2) Check for turbo shaft play. It should move a hair.

3) Looks for dusting on the compressor side. This happens when dust or dirt get in and sand blast the blades.

Like IMMA said, make sure you have real good manifold pressure and no leaks. Soot will be the easiet indication of this.


Remember the stock turbo is not really efficient past 25 lbs. It takes to much manifold pressure to build boost. Plus, many on here feel the thrust bearing gets unhappy in the area too.

You can always swap out to a 1.0 housing for better lighting.

 

my egt's are at about 700* when im cruisin at 1500rpm/55mph and about 850-900* @ 2000rpm/70-75mph. mind you thats w/out a trailer

 

I can't remember what a non-intercooled stroker runs at 55 for egts. Sounds about right though.

 

This is 1700 rpm @ 70 mph with no IC

 

Well somebody has 3.73's or maybe it's the 35" tires that let you have 1700 at 70? lol

 

my speedo must be way off... 1500rpm is 55mph w/ 3.55 gears w/ 35's and about 2000 is 70-73mph. if i remember right.

 

It's 3.55's and 35"s.......3.73's weren't available till 99

 

Yeah I couldn't remember what year they came out.

 

So recalibrate the speedo, it's easy.

"First, you'll need to know the actual height of the tires, not the
nominal height of 35" that's printed on the sidewall. To get that,
make a mark on the edge of the tire at the ground, and mark the ground
directly under the mark. Now, roll the truck far enough for the tire
to have made three revolutions. When your mark on the tire is at the
very bottom, near the ground, mark the ground again, and measure the
distance between the two marks on the ground. Divide that distance by
three, since there were three revolutions of the tire, then divide
that number, (which is the circumference of your tire,) by 3.14. The
answer you have is the true height of your tire. Write that number
down, because you'll need it for the next step. Divide 30282 by your
actual height. If your true height is 34", the math goes something
like this: 30282/34=891. That would be your speedometer calibration
code."

"To set the calibration, ground the single wire connector under the
glove box it says PSOM (Programable Speedometer Opdometer Module).
"Yes there is only one and it has a spade type plug on the end". I
used a wire with clips on both ends to ground the plug to a screw
under the dash or try a test light and use the clip end to the PSOM
and the other jam in a dooe hinge. Now look at your speedometer on the
face of your dash while sitting in the drivers seat and there should
be a "reset" button and a "select" button. While holding the reset
button in on the trip meter, turn the ignition to 'on' while the wire
is still grounded. Let go of the reset button. The speedometer display
will sweep once and will show a code of some kind then push in again
the "reset" button and the existing code will be displayed with
RECAL?, mine said 976 RECAL? Now you enter your new code you came up
with by dividing the rolling measurement by PI or 3.14 by pushing the
"select" button until it gets to the new calibration code number. You
may have to push "select" a whole bunch of times until you get to your
code. If you turn off the key at this point the original code will not
be changed or any of the 6 lives will not be used. To store your new
code press "Reset". Turn off the key. Unplug the ground wire."

 

whats it mean if you have soot coming out of the clamp just before it goes into the downpipe? i was checking for my oil leak yesterday and noticed the soot. the turbo spools fine, fins all look good, no play in the shaft, etc. there was a little bit of oil blow by in the air filter box, but nothing too bad.

 

Either the clamp is loose or the flange on the DP is not seated properly on the turbo. You can try to reseal/reseat it but even if it continues to leak it wont effect the way the truck runs but you may get some exhaust smell in the cab through the heater.

 

yeah, i definately get some exhaust coming in through the vent or if im idling too long. its enough to make you light headed if you sit at a red light too long lol. i figured it was just the smell coming from my oil leak. is there any type of gasket that goes on it?

 

I hear what your saying these. As far as I know there is no gasket that sits there. Can you tighten the clamp more?