Turbo Removal
#1
Turbo Removal
Alright guys, finally starting on my turbo project. I want to get the old one removed this weekend and hopefully mount my new up-pipes and pedestal this weekend. I still have to fab up some oil lines and intercooler pipes, downpipe.
It looks pretty tight in there. I'm just hoping I can reach all the nuts and bolts and get to everything.
Any pointers guys?
It looks pretty tight in there. I'm just hoping I can reach all the nuts and bolts and get to everything.
Any pointers guys?
#3
#5
A 10mm 1/4" drive flex socket (or a 1/4" flex joint with socket) will save you a world of headaches and skinned knuckles on the back two pedistal mount bolts. I like to use a gear wrench on the EBV housing bolts and pull it off before trying the pedistal mount bolts, it makes it easier to reach and see the back pedistal bolt. For your oil line you could tap into the pressure and return ports next to the oil filter base and then run hard lines up to the turbo, just a thought. Good luck and I'll be waiting on the pictures also.
#6
Alright guys, finally starting on my turbo project. I want to get the old one removed this weekend and hopefully mount my new up-pipes and pedestal this weekend. I still have to fab up some oil lines and intercooler pipes, downpipe.
It looks pretty tight in there. I'm just hoping I can reach all the nuts and bolts and get to everything.
Any pointers guys?
It looks pretty tight in there. I'm just hoping I can reach all the nuts and bolts and get to everything.
Any pointers guys?
#7
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
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These turbo's don't use a pedestal like the stock turbo does so it needs a lubrication supply and return line. Generally you make a base plate that bolts to where the stock pedestal would bolt to and plumb fittings to use the supply and return in the valley. But its not terribly simple as there is little room and the return must be a gravity return.
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#8
These turbo's don't use a pedestal like the stock turbo does so it needs a lubrication supply and return line. Generally you make a base plate that bolts to where the stock pedestal would bolt to and plumb fittings to use the supply and return in the valley. But its not terribly simple as there is little room and the return must be a gravity return.
#9
So how the heck do I get the two lower bolts off on the exhaust flange for the turbo? I took my impact wrench and got the top two off. Not a problem. What about the cast iron piece that before the up pipe collector? It appears it has two bolts per side from the bottom? Can I leave these in there? Will the stock pipes comes out together or do I need to do them one at a time?
I'm gonna have to get the sawzall out and cut out the downpipe. Not a problem.
Haven't got to the pedestal bolts yet. I don't have a 1/4" drive with a flex. Hopefully I won't be running into any problems.
It appears there will be plenty of room to get those new up-pipes in with the downpipe removed.
On a side note I took the hood off. Made it a lot easier to get in there.
I'm gonna have to get the sawzall out and cut out the downpipe. Not a problem.
Haven't got to the pedestal bolts yet. I don't have a 1/4" drive with a flex. Hopefully I won't be running into any problems.
It appears there will be plenty of room to get those new up-pipes in with the downpipe removed.
On a side note I took the hood off. Made it a lot easier to get in there.
#10
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
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Are you talking about the top two bolts that hold the Uppy to the manifolds? if so I cut them and then just get new 1/4-20 bolts that are long enough.
The bolts up top (there are 2 per pipe) may not need to be removed at this point. If you get the bottom of the up-pipes loose you might be able to just pull the pipe from the collector with the collars in place. If your lucky your donut gaskets are worn and you can lift the collector right off and remove the pipes from the back of the engine.
The bolts up top (there are 2 per pipe) may not need to be removed at this point. If you get the bottom of the up-pipes loose you might be able to just pull the pipe from the collector with the collars in place. If your lucky your donut gaskets are worn and you can lift the collector right off and remove the pipes from the back of the engine.
#11
There are two bolts and 2 studs with nuts that bolt the collector (from the up-pipes) the the turbo itself. I took the two bolts out already but cannot get to the nuts. Especially the one thats on the driver side. I haven't taken off the EBPV yet.. as I've been looking for my sawzall to cut the downpipe.
I haven't removed the bolts between the exhaust manifolds to the upipes. There are very easy to get too.. especially when you have a pit.
The top end of the up-pipes... I think there is two bolts per upipe? Do I need to remove those? I doubt I can slide the whole unit down from the bottom.. maybe the top?
I haven't removed the bolts between the exhaust manifolds to the upipes. There are very easy to get too.. especially when you have a pit.
The top end of the up-pipes... I think there is two bolts per upipe? Do I need to remove those? I doubt I can slide the whole unit down from the bottom.. maybe the top?
#12
Join Date: Apr 2004
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oh your talking about the actual collector nuts. yeah those are fun!!! Get the EBPV butterfly housing off and one will be easy to get to. I think I use a stubby wrench and a pry bar against the firewall to break it loose. The driver side nut I think I use a 3/8th drive universal/swivel to get in there. I can't remember for sure though.
on the collector that the up-pipes going into once you get the turbo off it might be kinda loose with out even messing with it. It the donut gaskets are worn at all it might just slid off once you get one of the bottom of the up-pipes loose.
on the collector that the up-pipes going into once you get the turbo off it might be kinda loose with out even messing with it. It the donut gaskets are worn at all it might just slid off once you get one of the bottom of the up-pipes loose.
#13
#14
Yep.. used a pry bar to get them off. One thing to remember, the 1/4 universal joint you use to get the driver side pedestal bolt must be a good one. I went through two of them before I got the bolt to break loose.
I have the turbo removed... I let the manifold collector bolts soak over night.
FYI Tim, If you using a piece of flat steel for your pesdistal, you will have to bend the two fuel line down so it will clear the plate. How should I go about doing this?
I haven't taken any pictures yet.. but the fun is now just starting. Looks like their will be plenty of room for the uppies. Exhaust it gonna questionable.
I have the turbo removed... I let the manifold collector bolts soak over night.
FYI Tim, If you using a piece of flat steel for your pesdistal, you will have to bend the two fuel line down so it will clear the plate. How should I go about doing this?
I haven't taken any pictures yet.. but the fun is now just starting. Looks like their will be plenty of room for the uppies. Exhaust it gonna questionable.
#15
Join Date: Apr 2004
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I will be doing a complete fuel system either before or at the same time as my turbo setup so I won't have that to worry about. For you I don't know what to say. Can you snap a picture? Do they need to go a long ways or just a little tweak?
I am hoping in the next fews to start fabbing my turbo and fuel system on my spare engine but until then its all thoughts lost in space (my skull!)
I am hoping in the next fews to start fabbing my turbo and fuel system on my spare engine but until then its all thoughts lost in space (my skull!)