New Engine Oil
#1
New Engine Oil
A New Engine Oil for Older/Performance Engines.
From Hemmings News
Race-based high-performance street engine oil.
Jack Roush, of Roush Fenway Racing, and Valvoline recently combined efforts to bring owners of performance vehicles Roush Motor Oil. Inspired by the race track and formulated for the road, it provides protection for both newer and older performance engines. Sold by the quart for a suggested retail of $7.99 each, the six blends are:
* SAE 5W-20; SAE 5W-30; SAE 5W-50: (API SM)
Fully synthetic engineered for extreme protection and superior performance. Advanced additive package for maximized horsepower, heat protection, and longer-lasting zinc/phosphorus anti-wear. SAE 5W-50 is the recommended oil for the Roush P-51A Mustang.
* SAE 10W-30 and SAE 10W-40: (API SL)
High zinc for classic high-performance engines, including protection for push-rod and flat tappet applications. Fully synthetic engineered for extreme protection and superior performance. Advanced additive package for maximized horsepower, heat protection, and longer-lasting zinc/phosphorus anti-wear.
* BREAK-IN OIL (SAE 40)
High zinc, conventional formula specifically designed to break-in and dyno high performance engines. Requires no additional additives. Also applicable for use in racing applications.
Older engines, and especially flat tappet or push-rod types, require high levels of zinc/phosphorous for added protection. Valvoline increased the level of zinc for the 10W-30 and 10W-40 grades, and in every grade used special low-volatility zinc, which helps to maintain higher levels of phosphorous in the oil instead of blowing it out through the catalyst. All six blends are now available through select retailers. For more information, visit ROUSH Motor Oil - Full Synthetic.
- By Matthew Litwin
From Hemmings News
Race-based high-performance street engine oil.
Jack Roush, of Roush Fenway Racing, and Valvoline recently combined efforts to bring owners of performance vehicles Roush Motor Oil. Inspired by the race track and formulated for the road, it provides protection for both newer and older performance engines. Sold by the quart for a suggested retail of $7.99 each, the six blends are:
* SAE 5W-20; SAE 5W-30; SAE 5W-50: (API SM)
Fully synthetic engineered for extreme protection and superior performance. Advanced additive package for maximized horsepower, heat protection, and longer-lasting zinc/phosphorus anti-wear. SAE 5W-50 is the recommended oil for the Roush P-51A Mustang.
* SAE 10W-30 and SAE 10W-40: (API SL)
High zinc for classic high-performance engines, including protection for push-rod and flat tappet applications. Fully synthetic engineered for extreme protection and superior performance. Advanced additive package for maximized horsepower, heat protection, and longer-lasting zinc/phosphorus anti-wear.
* BREAK-IN OIL (SAE 40)
High zinc, conventional formula specifically designed to break-in and dyno high performance engines. Requires no additional additives. Also applicable for use in racing applications.
Older engines, and especially flat tappet or push-rod types, require high levels of zinc/phosphorous for added protection. Valvoline increased the level of zinc for the 10W-30 and 10W-40 grades, and in every grade used special low-volatility zinc, which helps to maintain higher levels of phosphorous in the oil instead of blowing it out through the catalyst. All six blends are now available through select retailers. For more information, visit ROUSH Motor Oil - Full Synthetic.
- By Matthew Litwin
#2
#3
Luckily I saw an article like Dick posted before I put new oil in my rebuilt 223
The article I saw was by Dave Emanuel titled THE LOST LOBES CHRONICLES. It mentioned the oil by Roush as being good but pricey it also mentioned Chevron Delo 400, Mobil Delvac and Shell Rotella. The latter three being designed for "heavy diesel engines" but high in ZDP. Article said look for API"Donut" on oil label-if it does not have "CF" "CF-2","CF-4","CG-4
"CH-4", "CI-4" or "CJ-4" it's not a diesel oil and is low in or has no ZPD. These oils apparently are disapearing quickly so maybe Roush's oil is pricey but, consider what that rebuild job just cost you......
The article I saw was by Dave Emanuel titled THE LOST LOBES CHRONICLES. It mentioned the oil by Roush as being good but pricey it also mentioned Chevron Delo 400, Mobil Delvac and Shell Rotella. The latter three being designed for "heavy diesel engines" but high in ZDP. Article said look for API"Donut" on oil label-if it does not have "CF" "CF-2","CF-4","CG-4
"CH-4", "CI-4" or "CJ-4" it's not a diesel oil and is low in or has no ZPD. These oils apparently are disapearing quickly so maybe Roush's oil is pricey but, consider what that rebuild job just cost you......
#7
Dick,
What oil do you think I ought to run in my flathead 8, it has been rebuilt at some point in the past (still looks pretty darn clean inside and the pan only had about 1/4" + sludge when I took the oil inspection plate off to inspect) should I run the 10W30 I also heard someone say that Mobil 1 synthetic (10W 30 ? ) was good, or does it really matter all that much for a broke in flatty?
Thanks in davance for any pointers since I just drained the oil out last night. I am ready to get something back into it. was thinking I would maybe just put something cheap in it until it's installed in the truck and then after being run for an hour or so then draining (for the flush) then putting the good stuff in?
Thanks
Josh
What oil do you think I ought to run in my flathead 8, it has been rebuilt at some point in the past (still looks pretty darn clean inside and the pan only had about 1/4" + sludge when I took the oil inspection plate off to inspect) should I run the 10W30 I also heard someone say that Mobil 1 synthetic (10W 30 ? ) was good, or does it really matter all that much for a broke in flatty?
Thanks in davance for any pointers since I just drained the oil out last night. I am ready to get something back into it. was thinking I would maybe just put something cheap in it until it's installed in the truck and then after being run for an hour or so then draining (for the flush) then putting the good stuff in?
Thanks
Josh
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#8
Josh - sorry to intrude - the cylinder is on it's way, you should have it Tuesday or Wednesday. Also, your private messages have reached their limit, you have to dump some, or you won't get any more. Otherwise you would have gotten a PM from me...
Back to our regularly scheduled programming...
R
Back to our regularly scheduled programming...
R
#10
Actually, I'm following the oil threads pretty darn close - I still have the oil in it, that was there when I got it last December. Hasn't run. It's a fairly fresh rebuild, so I'm going to be pretty careful. I have to change the oil pan from car to truck, and will be putting it into the frame, then I'll be concerned about the oil.
R
#11
#13
Here is the Rousch Dealer Locator
ROUSH Motor Oil - Dealer Locator
I would check with the locals that sell Valvoline and start asking them when they are going to sell it.
Or order from Rousch and have it shipped by the case.
ROUSH Motor Oil - Dealer Locator
I would check with the locals that sell Valvoline and start asking them when they are going to sell it.
Or order from Rousch and have it shipped by the case.
#14