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  #16  
Old 09-02-2008, 08:17 AM
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I will certainly try this after i get another(one of many)important issues worked out. I need to deal with the Torque convertor first(another thread). But thanks again posters, i will use all this info to try and fix this.
 
  #17  
Old 09-02-2008, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by XLnAK
Krewat's right , In that you can with the semi floating rear diff. pull the axels from the hubs for many reasons leaving the hub bearings and everything else, but for a drive? he he! I'd have to block off the hubs somehow.
Sure sounds like gear mesh, with pinion bearings reset (or not)? IMO.
You can block the hubs off with some cardboard, and use the axle bolts to hold the cardboard on the hub, don't tighten down the bolts real tight, it'll pull through the cardboard. I wouldn't drive great distances like this, but I've seen wrecker services do this on big trucks for short distances. It will leak some, so be ready for it.
 
  #18  
Old 09-02-2008, 03:54 PM
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Chris, thanks for those contact pattern pictures! And you're right that the pinion preload wouldn't change the contact pattern.

After going back through this thread, if the pinion bearings were bad, I suspect your ring/pinion teeth are buggered because of the pinion flopping around.

Pull the diff cover and check the gear teeth... You MIGHT have a bad rear pinion bearing since it's only when ON the gas. Or a bad diff carrier bearing on the left side.

As for driving around with the axles out, yeah, I neglected to mention the sensible thing to do would be stuff a rag in the hole and tie-wrap a plastic bag on the outside
 
  #19  
Old 09-02-2008, 07:52 PM
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When i try this i will post pics for you guys to judge the results.
 
  #20  
Old 09-02-2008, 10:31 PM
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Excellent idea! ^^^^
 
  #21  
Old 09-04-2008, 07:37 PM
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Thanks for the preload correction. I'll try to keep my feet on the ground, not to far in my mouth. Ever learning.
 
  #22  
Old 09-04-2008, 09:49 PM
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You're welcome. I figure if one stops learning, they must have died. Keep learning!
 




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