Here's the problem, I'm redoing the entire front steering and suspension on my son's '65 F-100. I have the left side disassembled, and am ready to re-install new/cleaned components. I ordered a front axle/radius arm bushing kit from Mac's. The part number for the bushings received begins with C5TZ. The left front I-beam is marked C5TA.
I checked three different suppliers' catalogs, Dennis Carpenter, Obsolete Ford in Oklahoma City, and Mac's. All available bushings are part number C5TZ.
I'm questioning this because the metal collar on the new axle bushing will not fit into the axle. The axle appears to have a preformed sleeve that looks as though it is part of the axle and only requires the rubber portion of the bushing with the bolt sleeve.
Is the axle supposed to have that metal sleeve as permanent part or should it come out? If it would come out the new bushing and metal sleeve would fit. The axle was so rusty it is impossible to tell if they are one part or two.

 

The metal part should come out of the axle with the bushing. I pressed mine out with a 8 ton press. Used the same press to put the new ones back in.

 

BarryMC,

Thanks for the feedback. That's what I needed to know. The truck hasn't been registered since 1989 and has set outside for who knows how long. Everything underneath is so rusted you can't tell if it's one piece or two.

 

No problem and welcome to fte

 

Welcome to FTE

To make sure you got the correct bushings, here's the specs.

C5TZ-3B177-A .. Bushing = 5/8" I.D / 2 1/4" large O.D.

Fits: 1965/72 F100 & 1965/71 F250.

These can be a PITA to replace!

 

Numberdummy,

Thanks for those dimensions. I'll check them out. But, even if they're correct, does that metal sleeve come out of the axle. It is so rusted I can't tell if it is part of the axle or not. If it were out, the new C5TZ bushings would fit. The problem is it looks like it is part of the axle. I don't want to press or use a BFH on an integral part of the axle. I had another response that said the sleeve should press out.
Also, how tight are the radius arm bushings supposed to be? I was able to slide the new ones on without any resistance at all. As a matter of fact, there is some slight play once there on the radius arm. I haven't installed the arm and torqued it down yet, so will that tighten them up?

 

The metal part comes out I put the new ones in with my bench vise (not easy) Tom

 

Alright, I'm convinced the metal sleeve presses out of the axle, so I'm going over to use a friend's 12 ton shop press tonight...more to follow on how it goes. However, how about those radius arm bushings? Should they slide onto the radius arm easily? Should there be a small amount of play once they're on the arm (the arm is not installed)?

 

Mine were pretty snug but I don't think a little play will hurt because you squash them a little anyhow

 

I replaced my dad's without removing the beam. I cut a groove in the sleeve with a chisle bit on my air hammer and then fabbed a bolt/washer/cup set up and pressed them in using my 1/2 drive impact.

 

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I really appreciate it. The body of this old truck is in great shape, but the undercarriage is a rusted mess. This is my first ford project, so I'm learning as I go. I wish the shop manual was more accurate and precise, but having FTE as a resource is a big help.

 

I just did mine on my 65...only it was 75 i beams....same thing though.
I took mine to get pressed in at a local shop...I paid 40 bucks a side to have
new kingpins, bushins, and new axle pivot bushings pressed in. he charges 10 a side to press bearings and bushings. So I would say save yourself some headache and take the ibeams off and let them press in the new bushings. for 20 bucks it sure beats the alternative. Or while your at it go ahead have new kingpins and metal bushings installed...much better than the nylon things from autozone.

 

I have taken the left side apart and the kingpin has been replaced at my local machine shop. I got tired of beating on it with a sledge hammer. I did use the nylon bushings, though, simply from not knowing better. They should be fine for the light use of the truck. It is going to be an around town ride for my son.
I'm doing one side at time, so I have a good reference for putting things back together. The left side is ready to go back together, if I can get back to a press and move beyond the axle bushings. Thanks again.

 

I used poly bushings and just cut the old rubber bushings out leaving the steel shell or sleeve in place. Then slipped the poly ones into the old shell. Pretty easy.
Chris

 

On the IBeam bushings...when you have them installed...make certain they are pressed in the right way...a backwards bushing isnt a good thing...I would mark which axle came from which side...just in case.

As for the radius arm bushings, with the arm off, I would wire brush the heck out of the area where the bushings ride so its as clean as possible...a wire brush attachment on a drill should be able to handle it.



- cs65

btw...whats the torque spec for those I Beam bushings when going back in...I have yet to find that and I have looked for that for a very long time.