Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck

Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 08-04-2008, 11:00 PM
Brewski's Avatar
Brewski Brewski is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 143
Brewski is starting off with a positive reputation.
Will NOT idle!

Ok guys, I'm out of ideas. I've been reading and researching for several days and I've tried many things but none have worked so far. Hopefully someone has an idea. This may get a little long but I think it is important.

The basic problem is that the truck will not idle after it cranks. It will stay running if I pump the accelerator, but dies quickly if I stop. But first, let me say that I have just finished putting the truck back together. However, I didn't disassemble any engine parts. So, ... I got the truck reassembled and after some coaxing I got the engine running smooth. The fuel was a couple years old but it was running fine. I was in the process of filling the radiator while the engine idled for about 30 minutes, watching the temp gauge and adding coolant when needed. I was also adding trans fluid since I lost quite a bit from disconnecting the trans cooling lines. There wasn't much gas in the tank to begin with so a few minutes later when I tried to restart the engine it wouldn't idle. I thought it was out of gas (pretty much on E). I put about 5 gallons of fresh fuel in it and after many frustrating minutes it still wouldn't idle. Since then I have:
  • checked the vacuum hoses (which worked fine 2 min. ago apparently)
  • researched the forums
  • rechecked the spark plug wires (only a couple hundred miles on them)
  • researched the forums
  • checked the distributor cap (new with wires)
  • changed the fuel filter
  • rebuilt the carb (2 bl Motorcraft, stock)
  • adjusted the choke (although it was running fine at that setting)
  • researched!!!
The vacuum routing is pretty jacked up from the po but it's been running this way for past 20 years. The basics are there but nothing else. The carb bowl filled with fuel quickly both times it was empty so the fuel pump is working. The entire truck is stock except for the incorrect vacuum lines (that were just working fine). I'm out of ideas! Help please!
__________________


73 F100 Custom Explorer, 302, C4, 2WD
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-05-2008, 06:06 AM
duste's Avatar
duste duste is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Kingston , Nova Scotia
Posts: 583
duste is starting off with a positive reputation.
If you ran it out of gas and she'd been sitting for a while, try a new fuel filter. Had this same thing happen years ago and went nuts trying to find the trouble. I didn't check the filter because I had replaced it only a day or 2 before the trouble. I lowered the gas tank to work on it and the next day had the same trouble your'e having. Took 2 days to check the filter and find the trouble. Just a thought, sometimes the hardest problems have the easiest fixes.
__________________
If it's a FORD, it's therapy. For anything else , it's called WORK.[/COLOR]

79 F150 351M to a 429 (best sleeper ever)
79 F150 460 -current toy
78 Supercab 4X4 351M toy hauler
99 F350CC 4x4 7.3 DUALLY, my new love
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-05-2008, 08:39 AM
f250hiboy's Avatar
f250hiboy f250hiboy is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 128
f250hiboy is starting off with a positive reputation.
When you rebuilt the carb did you put the float back right...Also did you check the idle screw...if you rebuilt the carb right then you need to readjust the carb...
__________________

75 f250 hi-boy 351m
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-05-2008, 08:52 AM
NumberDummy's Avatar
NumberDummy NumberDummy is offline
Ford Parts Specialist
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Hacienda Heights CA
Posts: 56,170
NumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputation
It could very well be the fuel filter, but not the one that screws into the carb...there may be another, in the fuel pump itself.

Look at your fuel pump, is there a metal 'tomato juice' sized can that screws on to the pump body? As original...there's a cartridge fuel filter inside that can...it rarely gets changed because most ppl don't know it's there.

C4AZ9356B .. Fuel Filter-Cartridge Type (Motorcraft FG1A)
__________________
Bill / Retired Ford Parts Manager / SoCal Chapter Member / Part number research: 1928/2001 trucks & 1928/89 passenger cars.

2013 Escape FWD 2.0L Eco-Boost
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-05-2008, 09:15 AM
Brewski's Avatar
Brewski Brewski is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 143
Brewski is starting off with a positive reputation.
That is a very good suggestion Numberdummy. I haven't tried that because, like you said, I didn't know it was there. It certainly acts like a fuel delivery problem. I'll pick up another in-line filter as well. I'm not sure if it has the tomato juice size can or not. It looks more like two smaller skinny ones. I'll post an old photo I have in a few minutes.
__________________


73 F100 Custom Explorer, 302, C4, 2WD
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-05-2008, 09:20 AM
Brewski's Avatar
Brewski Brewski is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 143
Brewski is starting off with a positive reputation.
Ok, here's a photo. It's the best one I have other than taking a new one tonight.

Click the image to open in full size.
__________________


73 F100 Custom Explorer, 302, C4, 2WD
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-05-2008, 09:50 AM
fmc400's Avatar
fmc400 fmc400 is offline
MSEE
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 10,386
fmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud of
With the motor idling, take a can of carb spray and spray it around areas that can cause a vacuum leak, such as the carb base gasket, brake booster (if you have power brakes), intake manifold seals, etc. If the idle goes up, there is a leak there.

Recheck the float height as well. You might want to try a "wet-check" procedure which will be explained in the rebuild sheet if you still have it. Try adjusting the idle mixture screws - turn them all the way in and then back them out 1.5 to 2 turns. If you have to back them out much past 3 turns to get the motor to idle smoothly, you most likely have a vacuum leak.

What is the choke doing? You should start the motor cold and watch it open. If it's not opened within a few minutes, there is a problem there too.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-05-2008, 10:06 AM
Brewski's Avatar
Brewski Brewski is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 143
Brewski is starting off with a positive reputation.
First, I want to say thank you all for the input, your help is greatly appreciated!

Quote:
Originally Posted by fmc400 View Post
With the motor idling, take a can of carb spray and spray it around areas that can cause a vacuum leak, such as the carb base gasket, brake booster (if you have power brakes), intake manifold seals, etc. If the idle goes up, there is a leak there.
I did that. Found no leaks. I had to be quick because the engine was dying by the time I rounded the door and sprayed carb cleaner IN the carb to keep it running and then around the various suspected leak areas.


Quote:
Recheck the float height as well. You might want to try a "wet-check" procedure which will be explained in the rebuild sheet if you still have it.
I haven't done that. It may be next if the new, new fuel filters aren't the culprit.

Quote:
Try adjusting the idle mixture screws - turn them all the way in and then back them out 1.5 to 2 turns.
Did that.

Quote:
If you have to back them out much past 3 turns to get the motor to idle smoothly, you most likely have a vacuum leak.
I'll try that.


Quote:
What is the choke doing? You should start the motor cold and watch it open. If it's not opened within a few minutes, there is a problem there too.
The choke starts off mostly closed. I can only get it to run for a few seconds so I don't know what it does after a few minutes. I thought it could be a choke problem since it acts a little like it's 5 below outside but it seems to be in the correct position for cold startup.
__________________


73 F100 Custom Explorer, 302, C4, 2WD
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-05-2008, 10:10 AM
NumberDummy's Avatar
NumberDummy NumberDummy is offline
Ford Parts Specialist
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Hacienda Heights CA
Posts: 56,170
NumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputation
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewski View Post
That is a very good suggestion Numberdummy. I haven't tried that because, like you said, I didn't know it was there. It certainly acts like a fuel delivery problem. I'll pick up another in-line filter as well. I'm not sure if it has the tomato juice size can or not. It looks more like two smaller skinny ones. I'll post an old photo I have in a few minutes.
Photo shows a replacement pump without the filter.

As original F Series trucks: Ford used the filter in the fuel pump from 1961 thru 1977.
__________________
Bill / Retired Ford Parts Manager / SoCal Chapter Member / Part number research: 1928/2001 trucks & 1928/89 passenger cars.

2013 Escape FWD 2.0L Eco-Boost
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-05-2008, 11:03 AM
Brewski's Avatar
Brewski Brewski is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 143
Brewski is starting off with a positive reputation.
It will continue to run if i constantly rev the engine. As long as I pump the accelerator I can keep it going (most of the time). The rpms must stay above 1500 (guessing, no tach) or it will die. It will also continue to run if I "supplement" the fuel with carb spray or starter fluid in the carb.

Quote:
If so I would say there is something wrong with the carb settings,...
Would the carb settings change in 1-2 minutes with no intervention from me, between crankings? I thought that there must have been some trash get in the carb since the onset was so abrupt, so I decided to rebuild it with new seals and clean it (although I didn't chem dip it). It seems to me that nothing changed after the carb rebuild. It acted exactly the same as before. The float setting may need to be examined. With the engine off, the carb sprays two nice streams of fuel when I pull the throttle.

Can you put two inline filters on it? I was thinking of adding a transparent filter just prior to the fuel pump to see if its collecting a bunch of garbage.
__________________


73 F100 Custom Explorer, 302, C4, 2WD
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-05-2008, 11:10 AM
Blue Bomber's Avatar
Blue Bomber Blue Bomber is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 679
Blue Bomber is starting off with a positive reputation.
if you left it sitting for a while you could have water in the tank. had that problem with a 1977 celica. it took forever to get it to run right.
__________________
1974 Ford F-100, Straight 6, 3 speed on the Tree, 2wd. mostly stock....for now!
(10/6) NEwS flaSh: new clutch, new gear oil in the tranny.
thoughts on fixing daily drivers: work now, sleep later
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 08-05-2008, 11:36 AM
Brewski's Avatar
Brewski Brewski is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 143
Brewski is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Bomber View Post
if you left it sitting for a while you could have water in the tank. had that problem with a 1977 celica. it took forever to get it to run right.
Thanks for the input. While not impossible i guess, it is unlikely since it was inside an enclosed garage for the duration of the reconstruction.

Should I add more fuel to the tank to dilute the contaminants? It currently has only about 5 gallons or 1/4 of a tank.
__________________


73 F100 Custom Explorer, 302, C4, 2WD
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 08-05-2008, 12:01 PM
Blue Bomber's Avatar
Blue Bomber Blue Bomber is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 679
Blue Bomber is starting off with a positive reputation.
we put denatured alcohol in the tank to get the water out. but we used it for about a month. there is some stuff at parts stores that does the same thing.
__________________
1974 Ford F-100, Straight 6, 3 speed on the Tree, 2wd. mostly stock....for now!
(10/6) NEwS flaSh: new clutch, new gear oil in the tranny.
thoughts on fixing daily drivers: work now, sleep later
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-05-2008, 12:16 PM
Brewski's Avatar
Brewski Brewski is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 143
Brewski is starting off with a positive reputation.
Couldn't make it any worse and I don't think it would damage anything. It's worth trying I suppose.
__________________


73 F100 Custom Explorer, 302, C4, 2WD
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 08-05-2008, 12:24 PM
NumberDummy's Avatar
NumberDummy NumberDummy is offline
Ford Parts Specialist
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Hacienda Heights CA
Posts: 56,170
NumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputation
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewski View Post
Couldn't make it any worse and I don't think it would damage anything. It's worth trying I suppose.
The Ford (Motorcraft) 2V carb has a bad reputation for rough idling and bogging down...hesitating...upon acceleration.

The usual cause is a bad accelerator pump & check valve which should have come in the carb kit you installed. Since those parts didn't solve anything...

IMO: The carb is prolly worn out...time for a replacement. I'd go with an Edlebrock...not another Ford carb which will...sooner or later, develop the same symptoms.
__________________
Bill / Retired Ford Parts Manager / SoCal Chapter Member / Part number research: 1928/2001 trucks & 1928/89 passenger cars.

2013 Escape FWD 2.0L Eco-Boost
Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2008, 12:24 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
92 5.0 low idle cryptyx Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W) 6 09-29-2014 09:27 AM
1973 F-100 fuel problem lgriffiti 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 5 05-29-2014 06:55 AM
84 351 W Carb sensor problem.. Seth_84F250 1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 25 12-17-2013 09:22 PM
Can you solve it? Beastie 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 9 03-12-2013 07:18 PM
Franken-Holley (a 4180) comes to life! crazyeddie Fuel Injection, Carburetion & Fuel System 19 12-28-2009 07:22 PM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Tags
2150, 2v, 302, 360, 73, adjustment, carb, carburetor, f100, fast, float, ford, id, idle, level, motorcraft, setting, wet

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump


Participate In The Forums

Create new posts and participate in discussions. It's free!

Sign Up »





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:16 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup