OK, so I've done many-a-driveshaft u-joint replacement but never an axle shaft u-joint. Didn't think it would be that much different until I noticed the retaining clip is on the inside of the yoke ear.

Having one heck of a time to get those c-clips off. I do have a 12-ton press but of course without removing the c-clips, the joints don't budge.

Has anyone replaced thier front axle u-joints themselves? If so, what is the secret to getting the c-clips off from the inside of the yoke ears?

Thnx.
Kalsc

 

The c clips just work as a normal c clip. A punch, and a hammer to atleast break them free. Once they spin or slide, you can use your imagination on how to get it out, dont be afraid to hit them, its a bad u joint anyways. If you can, put the side of the joint your hitting in the vise, for minimal movement, and maximum hit.

EDIT: ALSO, DO NOT forget to re install them, on the new ujoint, once it is in place. It is extremely important that you do that, and Im sure you will, but since this is your first time, just trying to remind you.

Good luck.

 

I used a flat blade screwdriver and tapped it with a hammer facing out and the clips went flying.

 

Nothing worked except for griding them out and then banging the chunks out. I ground into the cap and then down into the clip to remove the clip material. Took enough clip metal off to be able to punch the rest out. They were seriously rusting in, there was no way a screwdriver or chisel and hammer would knock them out. Wow were these stuck. Got the passenger side dissassemble, working on the dirvers side now. Thank goodness for the 12-ton press, it's not much but it does the trick.

Cheers!
Kalsc

 

sorry I am late to the thread, but the trick on most repairs on these things is soak it!! PB blaster is the big recomendation.

 

OK, so I got them apart. Picking up new joints on Tuesday. I posted a pic of one of the siezed u-joint, talk about embarassing, talk about my bad!!!!!

I had to use a pipe wrench to get the one cap off, and as you can see I had to cut the other cap off. Lesson learned.

Although this thread isn't that informative, it's at least entertaining watching a dumb-a$$ fix something he totally over looked.

 

Well then, that makes virtually all of us "overlooking" ours, too.

It's not like you can pump a shot into them every once-in-a-while!

It's not like you "forgot".

Yea, they've got a "better idea"....

Sorry, but this one's going to be an "as necessary" repair to mine. I'll use joints with zerks, however, as replacements. Assuming I can get them by that time.

Pop

 

Wow... makes me second guess my call not to change mine! It moved freely though, so I'm going to plead ignorance and hope it lasts

 

Marv, the place that balances my driveshafts, always comments on the non-greasable joints, and says how good they are. These are the people that deal with this everyday, and you figure most people get atleast 8 years out of a set of front u joints, the non greasable variety. They come prefilled with grease. Just for what its worth. The spicer non greasable joints are pretty much the premium joints from what Ive come to understand from our driveshaft shop.

 

I don't know where my old u joint went from the rear driveshaft, but at least you had needle bearings still... somehow all mine had disappeared from one cap... I'm just surprised the cross didn't break... not much left of it. If you can get spicer joints. Although I am running a precision (federal mogul) joint in the back; it came with a grease fitting in the cap, not the cross...

 

In looking at the picture I posted, as well as the other siezed joint, I find it interesting that it was only the caps opposite each other that siezed?!?!?! Why would that be? The way I see it is that the grease which is in the channel between the two caps is supposed to flow out to the caps via the centrifigal force, so if the caps opposite each other sieze like this with grease still in the channel and stuck to the cap (as you can see in the picture), this would suggest what? Caps on too tight so grease can't flow into the cap? Not sure. Just curious.

 

Possible that old grease and junk had sealed up base of the cap making flow not ossible, or there wasn't a sufficient amount of grease in it and the cap seeized. Mine had plastic bottoms. Those could have swelled so as to seal off any way for pressure to be released to allow grease to move around in the cross/joint. Or maybe thermal expansion? Or maybe the needle bearings had a defect that dried up the grease causing seizure... just thinking out loud

 

I suppose the rifle-drilling, thus removing material, would reduce strength a little, and non-greaseables might be a bit stronger.

But, I really like what I just read above (from camodown) about F/M making joints with caps with holes! That would be slick, even if it meant removing four little plugs, one at a time, and inserting a zerk for a shot. I'd do that every couple of years (I virtually NEVER have it in 4WD) or after submersion in water.

Yes! Bring 'em on!

Pop

 

This is just a theroy, but I know people have a tendency to over grease, and it is very difficult to actually know how much should go in. SO it is a thought that by not allowing some of us fools to grease, they are doing us a favor.

 

DOH!!! Bent yoke ears.

So, in using the press to remove the 10 year old, VERY stuck u-joints, I tweaked the yoke ears a litte and can't get three of the new c-clips in.

Did some reading in another forum where a fellow used a grade 8, fine thread 7/8th's bolt, two nuts and 2 hardened washers to fabricate his own spreader. He experienced success. Was curious if anyone else here has ever done something like this? If the shop is going to charge me too much to straighten the ears, I'll try this out, was curious first though.

Cheers!
Kalsc