CB SWR help
#1
CB SWR help
Ok here is the scoop. I was running dual 4' Wilson "Silver Load" FGT CB Antennas. I had them tuned to around 1.5 on the swr. Now that I have gone down to one of them the swr is now at 2.5. I am using the same mounting setup I did before and connecting the little ground wire only made it worse. Here is how I have them mounted,
Would mounting them directly to the stake pocket be better? Or what could be my issue. I just bought some coax from radio shack, because the radio shop I bought the antennas from in the first place is now almost a hour and a half away. I might run up to the truck stop and see if they have any but that would mean the intertor has to come out again, and I just did that last weekend. So what are my options?
Would mounting them directly to the stake pocket be better? Or what could be my issue. I just bought some coax from radio shack, because the radio shop I bought the antennas from in the first place is now almost a hour and a half away. I might run up to the truck stop and see if they have any but that would mean the intertor has to come out again, and I just did that last weekend. So what are my options?
#2
Have you grounded the body to the frame?
Are you using a single piece of coax?
I'd suggest an 18ft. piece of quality coax (not the Radio Shack stuff) and ground the bed to the frame with a ground strap or 2.
Many times just getting a better ground will drop the SWR to where you want to be....
You might want to remove some of the paint under the bolt you have mounted to the stake hole to get more ground contact.
Rob
Are you using a single piece of coax?
I'd suggest an 18ft. piece of quality coax (not the Radio Shack stuff) and ground the bed to the frame with a ground strap or 2.
Many times just getting a better ground will drop the SWR to where you want to be....
You might want to remove some of the paint under the bolt you have mounted to the stake hole to get more ground contact.
Rob
#3
#4
Coax length will also play a big part in SWR so if you're running duals you will have 2x the coax.
You probably got a good reading because of all the extra coax.
I'd run a new 18ft coax and start from there....also don't trust the built in meter in any radio to be accurate, try to use a separate meter.
Rob
You probably got a good reading because of all the extra coax.
I'd run a new 18ft coax and start from there....also don't trust the built in meter in any radio to be accurate, try to use a separate meter.
Rob
#5
#6
Your cable looks identical to one I used to run, and I think maybe your cable is backwards (don't hate, read on). It looks like it has a micro-conector below the regluar coax connector. The micro-UHF connector will be the weak link, anything getting inside it can cause a jump in SWRs. If you don't want to flip the cable, heat shrink it or put some silicone on it to seal it up. Buying a better cable is a 100% good way to improve your rig, especially if you're stepping up from a non-quality cable.
And run grounds to multiple parts of the truck. The more grounds the better the plane usually. So hit the bed, the frame(grind off any coating), the cab, etc.
Something else, running true duals on a truck that sized can cause your transmission strength to drop even if you have great SWRs. And depending on what kind of harness/connectors you're using you could also be reducing the power before you even get to the antennas. So if you're running a legal box pushing 4 watts, your transmit power is gonna be nil. If you're running a heater, you might want to go to a single stick and buy a Predator or something similar. If you're running a small mod (10-30 watts) just disconnect one antenna and run a dummy if you're going for a look.
Previous Rig 1: Cobra 19 to a radioshack mag-mount disaster.
Previous Rig 2: Cobra 25 stock, 18ft of craptastic RS coax to one 4ft Francis.
Previous Rig 3: Cobra 29nw modded to 30, 18ft cophase Firestik firestuc to dual FS4s.
Current Rig: Cobra 25 modded to 30, 18 ft of Firestik firestud coax to a 5.5ft Francis. Pulling 1.3:1 on a good day.
My Rig in the works: Cobra 25 modded to 30, 18ft of shielded coax to a Predator dual coil w/ 22in shaft.
And run grounds to multiple parts of the truck. The more grounds the better the plane usually. So hit the bed, the frame(grind off any coating), the cab, etc.
Something else, running true duals on a truck that sized can cause your transmission strength to drop even if you have great SWRs. And depending on what kind of harness/connectors you're using you could also be reducing the power before you even get to the antennas. So if you're running a legal box pushing 4 watts, your transmit power is gonna be nil. If you're running a heater, you might want to go to a single stick and buy a Predator or something similar. If you're running a small mod (10-30 watts) just disconnect one antenna and run a dummy if you're going for a look.
Previous Rig 1: Cobra 19 to a radioshack mag-mount disaster.
Previous Rig 2: Cobra 25 stock, 18ft of craptastic RS coax to one 4ft Francis.
Previous Rig 3: Cobra 29nw modded to 30, 18ft cophase Firestik firestuc to dual FS4s.
Current Rig: Cobra 25 modded to 30, 18 ft of Firestik firestud coax to a 5.5ft Francis. Pulling 1.3:1 on a good day.
My Rig in the works: Cobra 25 modded to 30, 18ft of shielded coax to a Predator dual coil w/ 22in shaft.
#7
See I have changed the set up. That picture is from the first set up(duals) and is the oppisite antenna I am using. Just a pic to show how it is set up. I am runing a stock radio and its just some normal coax bought at rad shack. Tomorrow I am going to try and clean up the area behind the washer and see how the bed is grounded. Never had this type of problem before. Would running that ground wire off the antenna to a different spot work just like grounding the antenna or is it a seperate ground?
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#8
Your cable looks identical to one I used to run, and I think maybe your cable is backwards (don't hate, read on). It looks like it has a micro-conector below the regluar coax connector. The micro-UHF connector will be the weak link, anything getting inside it can cause a jump in SWRs. If you don't want to flip the cable, heat shrink it or put some silicone on it to seal it up. Buying a better cable is a 100% good way to improve your rig, especially if you're stepping up from a non-quality cable.
Now as for the tuning tip would trimming it even shorter help? I dont want to get too crazy right now when something as trimming a tuning tip would be the fix.
#10
#11
The Firestik everything-CB page. Tech-Docs Index
It's all good. Tuning a tip doesn't necessarily change the SWRs the same across all 40 channels. It changes the slant of the plot. When your SWR on CH1 is higher than CH40, you're short, and you have to move the wrapping of the coil to try to compensate (read: hard). If its viceversa and Ch40 is high, then you're long and you trim off a bit of the coil. The goal is that SWR reading is lowest near the chanel you use the most (19 is the most common).
http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs/swr-plot.pdf
So the cable can't be backwards (mine was a single, looks identical from the pic), but that conenctor can still be problematic if you don't protect it. Def get some better cable like yo said you might, it's almost always a good investment(and usually one of the weakest links in the system).
It's all good. Tuning a tip doesn't necessarily change the SWRs the same across all 40 channels. It changes the slant of the plot. When your SWR on CH1 is higher than CH40, you're short, and you have to move the wrapping of the coil to try to compensate (read: hard). If its viceversa and Ch40 is high, then you're long and you trim off a bit of the coil. The goal is that SWR reading is lowest near the chanel you use the most (19 is the most common).
http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs/swr-plot.pdf
So the cable can't be backwards (mine was a single, looks identical from the pic), but that conenctor can still be problematic if you don't protect it. Def get some better cable like yo said you might, it's almost always a good investment(and usually one of the weakest links in the system).
#12
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