Home at last...
#16
Hey Dave, plasma setup is super easy...you might/should have a regulator on the unit itself...make sure you also have a water trap/seperator too.
I have two plasmas, one little Airco unit (10 and 18 amp) I used for sheetmetal, and a bigger one (brand eascapes me right now) that has settings for 20/40/50 amps...
Anyway, I set the machine pressure at 50psi for light gauge stuff, and as get to thicker material, I go up 10 PSI...i/e sheetmetal I burn at 50PSI, 1/8th inch at 60, 1/4 at 70...etc...seems to work just fine.
Another thing...yuo probably have a "setup" switch", this does two things, one allows you to set the "cutting pressure"...i/e if your regulator is at 50 and you run the tool, pressure will drop to 40 or so)...so you do the "setup" and set the pressure for the material...also, let it run in "setup" for a good minute, this will purge moisture/etc from the lines and ensure you start off with a good cut.
I run (on my bigger machine) the high current tips/nozzles things, because I drag
cut everything, they seem to last longer this way.
Keep the torch in contact as much as possible, when you lift it too high and the arc goes screwy, you'll soon be replacing a tip.
They are not as forgiving as an O/A torch, i/e just a little jiggle in the hand shows in the cut.
I cut "straight down", seems to work best for me...i/e not like a gas torch where you keep it at an angle to preheat the material to cut...no need with a plasma cutter.
I also have several lengths of Al square and rectangle stock I use for straight cuts...move fast, don't dilly-dally around.
You'll get it quick, for years I used a torch here and there, after the first 6 inches of cuts with a plasma cutter, I was doing better than I ever did with a torch.
I have two plasmas, one little Airco unit (10 and 18 amp) I used for sheetmetal, and a bigger one (brand eascapes me right now) that has settings for 20/40/50 amps...
Anyway, I set the machine pressure at 50psi for light gauge stuff, and as get to thicker material, I go up 10 PSI...i/e sheetmetal I burn at 50PSI, 1/8th inch at 60, 1/4 at 70...etc...seems to work just fine.
Another thing...yuo probably have a "setup" switch", this does two things, one allows you to set the "cutting pressure"...i/e if your regulator is at 50 and you run the tool, pressure will drop to 40 or so)...so you do the "setup" and set the pressure for the material...also, let it run in "setup" for a good minute, this will purge moisture/etc from the lines and ensure you start off with a good cut.
I run (on my bigger machine) the high current tips/nozzles things, because I drag
cut everything, they seem to last longer this way.
Keep the torch in contact as much as possible, when you lift it too high and the arc goes screwy, you'll soon be replacing a tip.
They are not as forgiving as an O/A torch, i/e just a little jiggle in the hand shows in the cut.
I cut "straight down", seems to work best for me...i/e not like a gas torch where you keep it at an angle to preheat the material to cut...no need with a plasma cutter.
I also have several lengths of Al square and rectangle stock I use for straight cuts...move fast, don't dilly-dally around.
You'll get it quick, for years I used a torch here and there, after the first 6 inches of cuts with a plasma cutter, I was doing better than I ever did with a torch.
#17
Hey Dave, plasma setup is super easy...you might/should have a regulator on the unit itself...make sure you also have a water trap/seperator too.
Yep, got all of that...
I have two plasmas, one little Airco unit (10 and 18 amp) I used for sheetmetal, and a bigger one (brand eascapes me right now) that has settings for 20/40/50 amps...
Mine's a Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 39 and it is aet up for 240 VAC although the book says you can run it on 120 VAC
Anyway, I set the machine pressure at 50psi for light gauge stuff, and as get to thicker material, I go up 10 PSI...i/e sheetmetal I burn at 50PSI, 1/8th inch at 60, 1/4 at 70...etc...seems to work just fine.
Another thing...yuo probably have a "setup" switch", this does two things, one allows you to set the "cutting pressure"...i/e if your regulator is at 50 and you run the tool, pressure will drop to 40 or so)...so you do the "setup" and set the pressure for the material...also, let it run in "setup" for a good minute, this will purge moisture/etc from the lines and ensure you start off with a good cut.
I run (on my bigger machine) the high current tips/nozzles things, because I drag
cut everything, they seem to last longer this way.
Mine came with two sizes of tips and an extra piece that screws on the end over the tip that has two V groves cut at right angles across the face of it. I'm guessing that is for drag cutting but I don't know.
Keep the torch in contact as much as possible, when you lift it too high and the arc goes screwy, you'll soon be replacing a tip.
They are not as forgiving as an O/A torch, i/e just a little jiggle in the hand shows in the cut.
I cut "straight down", seems to work best for me...i/e not like a gas torch where you keep it at an angle to preheat the material to cut...no need with a plasma cutter.
I also have several lengths of Al square and rectangle stock I use for straight cuts...move fast, don't dilly-dally around.
You'll get it quick, for years I used a torch here and there, after the first 6 inches of cuts with a plasma cutter, I was doing better than I ever did with a torch.
Yep, got all of that...
I have two plasmas, one little Airco unit (10 and 18 amp) I used for sheetmetal, and a bigger one (brand eascapes me right now) that has settings for 20/40/50 amps...
Mine's a Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 39 and it is aet up for 240 VAC although the book says you can run it on 120 VAC
Anyway, I set the machine pressure at 50psi for light gauge stuff, and as get to thicker material, I go up 10 PSI...i/e sheetmetal I burn at 50PSI, 1/8th inch at 60, 1/4 at 70...etc...seems to work just fine.
Another thing...yuo probably have a "setup" switch", this does two things, one allows you to set the "cutting pressure"...i/e if your regulator is at 50 and you run the tool, pressure will drop to 40 or so)...so you do the "setup" and set the pressure for the material...also, let it run in "setup" for a good minute, this will purge moisture/etc from the lines and ensure you start off with a good cut.
I run (on my bigger machine) the high current tips/nozzles things, because I drag
cut everything, they seem to last longer this way.
Mine came with two sizes of tips and an extra piece that screws on the end over the tip that has two V groves cut at right angles across the face of it. I'm guessing that is for drag cutting but I don't know.
Keep the torch in contact as much as possible, when you lift it too high and the arc goes screwy, you'll soon be replacing a tip.
They are not as forgiving as an O/A torch, i/e just a little jiggle in the hand shows in the cut.
I cut "straight down", seems to work best for me...i/e not like a gas torch where you keep it at an angle to preheat the material to cut...no need with a plasma cutter.
I also have several lengths of Al square and rectangle stock I use for straight cuts...move fast, don't dilly-dally around.
You'll get it quick, for years I used a torch here and there, after the first 6 inches of cuts with a plasma cutter, I was doing better than I ever did with a torch.
My problem is probably a combination of needing a little practice and setting the current and air regulator. I do have several filters and water seperators throughout my air plumbing system as well as a new one I mounted on the back of the Plasma Cutter. They claim this one is good for up to 5/8" but I have my doubts. I really wanted it for sheet metal and stainless up to 1/4". I will take your advice and give it a try. I'm sure it will help to some degree and get me going in the right direction. I appreciate your taking the time to explain. You have told me more than the book did.
Later Man...
#18
plasma cutters.
My little Miller 375 Extreme unit will use 120 or 240 volt. The difference with it is it only cuts to 3/8 with 120v. With 240v it will cut to 5/8. The rating is 3/8 @ 10 ipm with a sever cut of 5/8 meaning it will get through the 5/8 but it won't be as pretty as a cut through the 3/8.
The trouble I have is keeping a steady cut rate. My hand is not as steady as it used to be. I have been told to hold it very gently and don't put pressure on the material being cut. Lightly drag the torch.
The air pressure is regulated in the unit at 95 psi so I have my regulator set to deliver 100 psi to the cutter. It will shut itself down if there is not enough air pressure and there are 4 lights on the front panel to let you know what is happening. Air too low, light for pressure turns amber. Problem with the tip, amber light, etc...
Current rheostat sets amperage for thickness of steel being cut. I imagine it can be set low but so far all my cuts have been made at a high setting. I love how clean the cut is. The ease of using a straight edge or template for cutting is also a plus. It is probably one of the coolest tools I have bought in a very long time with a very short learning curve.
Google searching "How-to" and "Plasma Cutting" brings up lots of good info.
Also good info here: How To Select And Operate A Hand-Held Plasma Cutter
The trouble I have is keeping a steady cut rate. My hand is not as steady as it used to be. I have been told to hold it very gently and don't put pressure on the material being cut. Lightly drag the torch.
The air pressure is regulated in the unit at 95 psi so I have my regulator set to deliver 100 psi to the cutter. It will shut itself down if there is not enough air pressure and there are 4 lights on the front panel to let you know what is happening. Air too low, light for pressure turns amber. Problem with the tip, amber light, etc...
Current rheostat sets amperage for thickness of steel being cut. I imagine it can be set low but so far all my cuts have been made at a high setting. I love how clean the cut is. The ease of using a straight edge or template for cutting is also a plus. It is probably one of the coolest tools I have bought in a very long time with a very short learning curve.
Google searching "How-to" and "Plasma Cutting" brings up lots of good info.
Also good info here: How To Select And Operate A Hand-Held Plasma Cutter
#19
Thanks Man...
Google searching "How-to" and "Plasma Cutting" brings up lots of good info.
Also good info here: How To Select And Operate A Hand-Held Plasma Cutter
Also good info here: How To Select And Operate A Hand-Held Plasma Cutter
Later Man...