I have been reading a lot this weekend due to a problem with my excursion. Basically, it just lost power and wouldn't go above 30 mph. I do see a coolant leak from top of radiator to the engine at the engine. The truck had a sudden loss of power. Got the water in fuel light on the dash. Towed truck home.

Here are my DTCs
P1000 Check not complete??
P1670 Electronic Feedback Signal Not Detected
P1140 Water in Fuel Condition
P0301 Fault Cylinder A-Misfire Detected (CYL 1)
P0671 Glow plug #1 circuit failure
P0673 Glow plug #3 circuit failure
P0675 Glow plug #5 circuit failure
P0677 Glow plug #7 circuit failure
P1AEE ??
P0008 ??
P08A6 ??

I cleared the codes to see if the return. The truck starts and runs now revs in park fine but I do see some white smoke. Is that vague enough? Let me know if I need to add more info to make sense of this post.

Just trying to figure out how major an issue this might be $$ wise.

Thanks

 

First off, this isnt a GM SUV - Its not a car.

Second, with those many fault codes, i'm guessing you should check the ground strap from the engine to frame.

I'm guessing those glow plugs are all on one harness, so probably not the individual glow plugs

Drain some diesel out of the bowl to see if you have any water in it.

Where its leaking from the engine, check for any small cracks, mabye you have a cracked head.

******Edit, our coolant hoses don't attach on the heads, do they? I was thinking of something else, mabye even a tractor or something.... mind is blank...)

 

Check UVCH first. Drain the water from the seperater,see how much water actually comes out with the fuel. Others will chime in.
Check all of you grounds also.

 

i second that!

 

Cleared the codes drained the seperator. I then drove it. No new codes appeared but when I accelerate hard I get a nice white smoke cloud and power loss. I easy off a bit and no smoke and running. I can get up to 55 just can't punch it.

Any good posts on how to checking the UVCH? Would it be an all day event for a newbie?

p.s. I edited the offending "car" references.

 

Changed the CPS and all seems fine. I guess I should have checked that first.

 

Hope that is what is is but I have my doubts. Welcome to the site and let us know if the problem comes back. Are you loosing coolant from radiator? Wondering if you are seeing steam instead of smoke. Not good. Other things to check, Oil level, filters. How bad is the leak and where is the water going?

 

The problem has come back. Everything seems to be acting the same. Driving can't get past 50... engine bucking then just quites. I towed it home and got it started but would not stay started. Can't restart it now cranks but doesn't turn over.

I am going to try the CPS again heck it worked last time why not give it another shot.

Here are the codes just in case something jumps out at someone. Ones in bold were mentioned the first time this happened.

P0100
P0671
P0673
P0720
P0722
P0732
P1140
P1211 - ICP???
P1670

 

As stated before, please look at the UVCH Under the valve cover harness. It would be the harness on the Passenger side of the truuck. It could be loose, chapped, or something under the valve cover may be causing this, this is where you would want to start..

 

You did check your Oil level didn't you ??????????????????????

 

Do these 2 things first. I'll assume you can handle the oil check, so I'll just tell you how to do the UVCH check. You'll need a multi-meter than can read ohms. Look on the inboard side of the passenger valve cover near the center. You'll see a long wiring connector there. Unplug that, and you'll see 9 flat pins in the connector in the valve cover.

Using your ohm meter, check the resistance against a good ground on the front 2 and rear 2 pins. They should read between 0.1 and 2.0 ohms. Next check the 3rd, 4th, 6th, & 7th, pin against the center 5th pin looking for a reading less than 5 ohms. Report back to us what these readings are. The most important part about injector readings is consistency. If one is reading off from the others, it may be a solenoid issue. If readings are open, or if 2 or more are out of spec, it's time to pull the valve cover and check for a loose plug. If the plug under the valve cover comes loose, the truck will not run right.

Now just in case you got the CPS from an auto parts store, stop by Ford or International tomorrow and pick up another CPS. The ones from the parts houses have been less than reliable.

 

Yes, I did check the oil and it was fine. I did replace the CPS but no luck but now it is smoking more when cranking.

Ok, I will do the UVCH check when I get home from work tomorrow and post back. Any pictures where I can make sure I can find it. I can be a bit slow.

Some background... my wife mentioned it has been getting harder and harder for her to start in the morning. It has been chilly for Forida...high 40's at night. Not sure if related but thought I would mention it.

Thanks for the help!

 

40s is not too cold for these trucks. Mine starts in the 20s and upper teens if I just cycle the plugs 1x and start.

 

ok here are the readings....
Passenger side back of truck to front on the pins not sure how they are suppose to number
1. .4
2. 2.4
3. 4.9
4 3.5
5----
6. 3.9
7. 3.8
8. .4
9 .4

Drivers side back of truck to front on the pins not sure how they are suppose to number
1. .4
2. .4
3. 4.1
4 4.0
5----
6. 3.8
7. 4.1
8. 3.8
9 .4

ok not sure what to make of those readings. Only one seems out of spec for sure and one close the are both next to each other but would that really be keeping me from starting?

Pull the cover got few things out of the way but I think I would have to remove more to get the cover off maybe not.

Suggestions???

 

#2 and #8 are glow plugs that should probably be replaced. Everything else looks pretty good. #3 injector ohm spec is a tad high but no big thing. I'd make sure the UVCH connections are tight and that the wires aren't rubbing anywhere and take it from there.