there are 2 10mm bolts that hold the FPR to the fuel bowl. if you undo those and move the FPR strait away from the bowl to get the screen out. the hardest part is removing the screen but i worked it around a bit untilit fell into my rag. it will leak a little bit of diesel out so you may want to throw a rag under it. be careful with it becasue it is fragil and can easil get dropped if your not careful. i used a Q-tip and a shot of carb cleaner. mine took alot of work even then. here is the post i used to do this. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...pr-screen.html

 

Hey sticks how did you plum your ccv into your down pipe?

 

at the beginning of this post i nentioned that the pyro was mounted post turbo. so i moved the pyro probe to the exhaust manifold. that left a whole in the EBPV housing mounted to the turbo/downpipe. i went to the hardware store, bought $25 worth of 1/2" copper tubing and fittings. i bent the copper over the turbo (tried to keep it away from it to avoid any more heat) and right down into the existing 90* stock rubber elbow. it took me about an hour to fab it all up. i bent the copper using my foot and a 2X4. it dosnt leak at all. although it does get warm, it dosnt seem to be hot enough to melt the rubber elbow. when i get my truck put back together this weekend ill take some pictures and figure out how to post them here. it looks really good and dosnt stink at all.

 

Wow thanks for the great reply!

ok let me try to help you out now....
Your losing oil from your turbo? ok you said the o rings were ok and in place? I bet you anything it was coming outta the ebpv because the same thing happened to me a year ago. I had not idea how it worked all i know is I had it hooked up to function as a exhaust brake. It leaked after a pulled the turbo to replace my stock dusted turbo wheel (pics in gallery). Apparently the ebpv needs spring tension on the acctuator to keep oil in the cylinder. I didnt know this and just ordered a rebuild kit from I think dieselsite. I got into it and rebuilt the ebpv and put it all back together and guess what?..... it leaked still. I called up I think its Bob from dieselsite and he told me that it needs 1/4" pull on that rod to keep it from leaking. This entire time it was just that little adjuster that screws in and out and holds onto the valve.

But if your going to gut it all out thats another way... I kept mine for towing.

Now to the uppipes..... honestly if I had to do it again I would just tighen them up and forget about it. It was a pain to do it cuz your working in such a tight spot. After I got them all off and compaired to the new ones there was only a little wear in the pipe itself. The doughnuts are some hard material that dont hardly wear out. Tighten them up and clean it all up and check back in a week or so of driving if there are anymore leaks.

Good luck buddy and thanks again for your input on the d66

 

its kinda funny how things are turning out. every day i look at my truck and i wonder, "how can i break you today". i havnt been to interested in the guys who were doing the ebpv delete because i have it set up as a break now. but i decided its not for me. it was a tough decision to ditch the ebpv valve but after tearing open all my nuckles and the oil leak coming from it, i decided it would be for the best now that you mention it, that is a perfect explanation of how the oil got blown onto my exhaust and only in that direction! im going to miss it for towing and the cool noise it made when i had the oppertuinty to use it. but oh well! if i never have to see the bottom of that pedastal again ill die a happy man!
-im going to go with the new doughnuts and try that first then. they are only 6 bucks and worth a shot. the pipes look very good/little or no wear on them.
-my next mods will be the 17* pump and stage 2's. the d66 rocked what i have now, i cant imagine what it will do with those under the hood. the plan is to stop there, but i doubt it!

 

i checked out your truck foremanES, we have the same truck. you must have good taste too! and your compressor wheel looks just like mine. pretty scary sight. i showed my brother in law who bought my 2000 SD, and he refuses to look at his now. haha thanks for your help.

 

Ya that was the original wheel. I replaced it with a wicked wheel but i didnt pull the turbo. I bent some fins on the new one cuz I didnt pull it out. So I ordered a $20 2000+ wheel and did it right and took the turbo out.

Im really wanting that d66! My motor is losing oil and im almost positive its going through my stocker.

 

i cant give you money to buy it but i can help talk you into it! ill have mine back together saturday and i have to go on a road trip with my car trailer. ill let you know how well it tows over the stocker. that was my biggest reason for the upgrade so im pretty sure ill have good results after what i have allready seen.

 

Thanks haha
Im already talked into it because of the stage 1s!

Just outta curriosity... how much was it? I was wondering if you could get it without the exhaust side and use the original to save on some $$$$$

 

i tried to get a discount (i did the poor college student routine) but it didnt work. i think i paid 1125 for it with a 250 core. i dont have the reciept with me or i could tell you for sure. i didnt think about asking them about the exhaust side taken off and what the price would be then. since that side is all cast i bet that mine would have been ok but i never looked. i sent the turbo back in the same box and packing the new one came in. they said i would get my refund back in the mail (check).

 

haha I hear that!!! I just graduated college and waiting on a job!

I was just wondering if it would knock the price down any cuz I know it needs a new turbo but its killing me to not put one on there!

 

i have to call them tomorrow anyway to make sure my core got there. ill ask about that ang get back to you. if they allow it, im sure there would be alot of people going down that road

 

Thanks buddy

 

Sticks.....I'm a little worried about that CCV mod. At that exhaust elbow you're probably making 40-50 psi drive pressure. If your CCV fitting isn't perfectly positioned to draw a vacuum it would mean that you are cramming that pressure into the crankcase......

Which would explain how several quarts of oil got pumped out when you got on the throttle.

Just something to think about.

 

X2 this is why I was asking about the ccv