Not necessary, I just need the original pics that you used on your write-up. I can pull the text from this thread.

You can attach them to an e-mail to guzzle _AT_ rbmicro _DOT_ com

edit: I have already inserted the link to this thread in the reconstructed 7point3 site.

 

Oh, sounds good. I will send the pics off here shortly.

 

I'm not inlove with grease in the gear oil. I wounder what that does to the clutch plate in the limited slip. I give them a very light coat of grease and sidehill the truck both ways right away to load up the bearings. Supose you could do that with a floor jack but its more fun driving it

 

thank you!

 

Hey camo, still have the Motorcraft box that the seals came in? I have a Motorcraft part number for the sterling axle seals of BR 5-83 and should fit mid 80's through 95' sterling 10.25 axles. anything ???? thanks.

 

Steve, the part numbers for the rear wheel seals are 2C3Z-1177-AB and they come in bags if I remember correctly... The o ring which goes on the axle end is E5TZ-4A331-A... Hope this helps!

 

Where is the best place to get the special socket? Do you have a part number for that?
Thanks!

 

Single axle or dually ? Auto Zone or O Reileys has them.. Around $29 bucks..

 

Gee, that's pretty steep for that socket.

I got mine from Summit for about half that.

Some places have a "tool loan" program, too.

Pop

 

Yep, i agree.. I priced the same thing at Napa... $65 !! This pictured is for my dually..

 

Good point here. Mine had the left hand threads on the driver's side - **This means you need a torque wrench that will work both ways (our 3 different Snap-On's wouldn't, lucky the neighbor had one), make sure you locate one before starting the job.
**Also I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere but make sure your replace the "slinger" between the inner bearing and seal, it's pretty thin and could be easily forgotten (don't ask how I know)

 

Just an update for the socket part numbers. Mile Marker makes the socket, # 15009-01 and it is for all F250, F350 and Excursions with the 10.5 rearend.

I found it at AutoZone.com priced at $20.99 with $6 shipping. The OTC 6601 part number is much more expensive at the $40+ range

I hope this helps others.

 

How did you guy's drive the new seals in? I'll I see everywhere is make sure you use Timken or National "Special Tool RD247"?

 

Last time I put in a rear seal I used a block of oak and a hammer. Carefully.

I also used a very-light film of Aviation Form-a-Gasket.

Pop

 

Whatever you use, make sure the contact surface covers the entire seal when driving it in. Pop is right, a block of wood will work. Just be careful with it. If you put a crimp or nick in the seal, you may have just ruined it. You might use a piece of sandpaper to clean the rust ring around the edge of the hub where the seal starts in. Also make sure the seal is all the way in. Once you have the hub slid on the spindle, have a bottle of gear oil by you and fill the hub up before you slide the outer bearing on the spindle.