Ok, I'm used to the "adjust while it's running" method used for older "C" brand engines. I'm under the understanding that this will not work for my Ford. It is a 1963 F100 with a 292.
This is my first older Ford so bear with me, I'm used to working on the other "C" truck(s) that I've hade (constantly even).

I've read the postings on the specs (.20 cold .19 hot) for the valve adjustment but I was hopeing someone could outline the porcedure for me. If it is simulare to the way it is done the first time after a rebuild I'll understand with ease but wouldn't mind hearing it detailed out just to put my feat on level ground on it.

Also,firing order? And there is a timing pointer but no marks on it....is this normal?

Any help is greatly apritiated.


Ray (63Fever)

 

I'm not sure on the valve adjustment, but I do know that my '64 292 has a timing pointer with no marks. The marks are all on the H-balancer.

-Andrew
f250_64(No Email Addresses In Posts!), same for yahoo messenger

Nothing, and I mean nothing, stirs the soul, saying I'm a bad **** like lettin'em rip with a window shaking, fuel gulpin, carbon monoxide belchin, attention gettin, V-oh my LORD!-8!

 

I adjusted mine while running, I dont know why you couldnt.

Nathan

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 22-Jul-01 AT 01:51 PM (EST)[/font][p]Hi this is from my 1960 shop manual....

My book says, .020 cold. Set No. 1 at TDC and draw a chalk line dividing your damper in half. Then divide into quarters. With No. 1 at TDC set No. 1, 4, 5 Exh. and No. 1, 2, 7 intake. Rotate engine by hand 180 deg. and set No. 6 and 8 exh. then set No. 4 and 5 intake. Rotate 270 degrees from 180 degrees (No. 3 at TDC) set No. 2,3,7 exh. and 3,6,8 intake. .017 possibly….018 definitely
If it helps mark No. 1 TDC (A), 180 Degrees (B), and while facing damper 270 deg. from 180 (C) would 90 deg. from No. 1 TDC on the left of damper.

Timing....number one cyl front passenger side....
distributor rotation = counter clockwise
1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2



Wayne 60 F-350
e-mail
https://www.ford-trucks.com/users/whomrig

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 23-Jul-01 AT 00:47 AM (EST)[/font][p]The difference between the GM and Ford products discussed here is the lifters. GM uses hydraulic lifter requireing zero lash but the ford lifters are solid and must have clearance in order to compensate for the lifter bumping off the cam at higher revs. This is noticable at lower rpms hence the noisy lifters but at higher rpms, you barely notice the noise. I too thought the "adjust 'em while its runnung " would be the prefered method. The problem with doing this is that the rocker arm has the adjusting nut over the pushrod and bounces so much you won't be able to keep the socket rocking in motion with the nut. GM utilizes a center adjusting nut that sits still while the engine is running. Just my 2cents.


Krosati
Visit my homepage at ClubFTE
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Read the post a little down the page titled "272".

 

Hehehe....ohman, dunno why my brain didn't tell me to look around instead of just at the pointer (is just were I'm used to seeing the marks is on a timing plate of some sort I guess)someone shoot me.

Ray

 

Thanks to all that replied, is exactly what I was looking for all the way around.

Ray (63Fever)