sorry about the long title i wanted search engine to find it for others on the WWW
I am posting this because I needed help and couldn't seem to find the info on one page.I will list SPECS LINKS and TIPS
This is more of a how to that I will continue to add to ..
I will post pictures soon.
here is what I started with

1955 f-100 stock 6volts system no motor no trans

Here is what I did in one week because my truck needed to be road worthy
fornt suspension: Stock
engine : 1969 460
transmission: truck C6 ( no slip joint)
brakes : stock
tank : 22 gallon aluminum under bed
wiring : painless 12 volt system
frame : stock
rear end: stock dana 44

460 crossmember and motor mounts: part #4413 & 4498 http://www.midfifty.com/08catalog/Page%20123_125.pdf

C6 crossmember: part 4436 & 4435
http://www.midfifty.com/08catalog/Page%20123_125.pdf

driveshaft : was custom built $260 It had to have a slip joint in the driveshaft because my transmission was out of a pickup. mine was 56 1/4 inches from universal to universal. yours might be different but not by much.

Aluminum 22 gal tank: part 1691-2b : it does req you to remove the spare tire crossmember. even though it says it does not
http://www.midfifty.com/08catalog/Page%2060_65.pdf\

Carb: 750 eldelbrock
Edelbrock.com - Carburetors & Accessories - Performer Series Carburetors

radiator: is original and came with my truck but you can get one
from http://www.midfifty.com/08catalog/Page%20120_121.pdf

BRAKES: pads adn cylinders I got some new shoes from and all the springs are the same as any other drum brake vehicle. I just found a set that looked similar http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fa/full.asp?page=75

wiring: 12 circuit NOT PAINLESS it is some american classic brand
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fa/full.asp?page=76

Headers: part ff461 requires some cutting of the passenger inner fender liner
Sanderson Headers

oil pan: rear sump .. you will need a cork gasket only if you have four oil pan bolts that are larger. the gasket that comes with this has all small holes and cannot be modified. trust me i tried. You will also need two bolts for the pick up because it does not come with them. one more thing. This dipstick tube will be right where the driverside header flang is. I recommend welding it shut before installing pan and using the original dipstick (modified).you will need a new oil pump .
Ford Racing M-6675-A460 - Ford Racing Engine Swap Oil Pans - JEGS

TIPS:
Buy alot of differant size bolts and nuts to go with then. I picked up 12 bolts and nuts of each size for only 25 bucks.

Notch the front crossmember under the radiator. so the oil pan does not rub on it.

YOU MUST INSTALL THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION TOGETHER FROM THE FRONT. I tried to install the tranny the second and ended up having to remove the engine again.

DO NOT CUT THE ORININAL TRANNY CRSSMEMBER OUT. It provides structural support.

get a starter with an external firewall mounted solinoid.

you only need to remove the radiator and front grill.. no need to remove fenders or rad. bracket.

I installed the engine and tranny using a carb lift plate that said it was rated at 1000lbs. original intake. I dont have the link but there is a website that tested the break limits on the intake and lift plate and the studs gave out at 4500 PSI.. i was impressed so i tried it and it worked fine.

I hope all this is helpfull to someone... pics are coming soon .... wish me luck on the wiring...tomorrow and exhaust friday.
1953, 1954, 1955,1956 f-100 460 c6 installation

 

Thank you for the post and Yes it was helpful!

 

All good advice, CONGRATS!

 

THNX gonna need this soon

 

alright american automotive wiring to the truck and it took me 14 hours to get it done. If you plan on using the old switches you must have a wiring diagram of course...

 

Wow. You really haul. I'm building a 58F100 with a 460/c6 and I've got all the running gear in and the truck wired too, but it took about a decade. I'll have to learn to work a bit faster. Your story reminds me of how it went for me. Even mentioning the importance of maintaining that OEM tranny crossmember. I did the same thing, but I carved on it a bit as I recall, and reinforced it somehow to make up for my meddling. It may have been that I needed more exhaust room or whatever. I guess I could go out and look, but I'm too lazy. Anyway for sure you gotta put that big heavy motor and tranny in simultaneously. And in my case that thing was even longer, because I added a cable operated overdrive at the rear of the tranny-I guess it would be called a "gear splitter" type device. It changes my drive ratio from 4:11 to 2:86 or thereabouts. I haven't got this thing running yet, but any minute. Its a pro street/steel tilt front end/4 link with coilover type "street/ strip truck" with the stock steering and slightly lowered monoleaf springs out front. Right now that I've just finished getting all the electronics to work--everything from the turn signals--that was the hardest part- to the MSD programmable launch mechanism--called a "two step" by the drag racing crowd, I'm cutting some sheet metal to make a bed floor and installing the typical after market wheel tubs. Its been a big project. I haven't fired it up yet, but I've ran the oil pump as needed and turned the motor over with the starter, and installed all the fluids except for gas-and I didn't want to put the gas in until I finish welding the bed floor sheet metal. Almost caught up with ya!!

 

well when I said I did all the wiring ... the only thing i am having problems is wiring the stock healight switch. I look at schematics but it is driving me nuts... ill get it tomorrow. Your truck sound like it is gonna haul some serious A##. I would love to see your tilt front end...

UPDATE: My right sanderson header is 2 cm away from the right frame rail. I would like to have more room so if you use these headers try to notch the frame.
The stock rad works well with a 13lb rad cap in case anyone is wondering.

I cannot run a mechanical fan so I wired an electrical one only with an adjustable thermo from mid fifty.

Wheel cylinders.. I just found out SCHUCKS has them for 9.99 instead of the 89 from mid fifty.

rear end: stock rear works fine. I found a crack on a tube but I just had it welded for now...

Brakes: work pretty well for being stock with a 460.

exhaust: the left header exhaust was run under the tranny crossmember cause of clearance... the right fit just over the member.. so they don't look symetrical in case anyone cares.

fuel tank... please fill your fuel tank with water prior to filling it with fuel to test for leaks.. I found out the hard way that there was a pin hole on a weld on my brand new tank... now nobody will weld on it of course.. and because of time I used JB WELD (temp)...

The reason I am in a hurry: I am in the united states air force. The truck was bought as a father and son project for my two year old and I ... the problem is I got orders to move to alaska and have to ship out in two weeks. They will not ship a non running vehicle, or one that does not have everything operational and is road safe. lights brakes and turn have to work.. ebrake and all. oh and it cannot have ANY leaks... so in a time crunch I have been working aroound the clock since one week ago getting it runnning..my other option was to leave it in storage in a city I might never come back to ... then later I would have to pay out of pocket to ship... I would rathere pay out of pocket now..to get it running.. I want to post to save others the trouble when they do it and give options to those who can forsee a problem... I will post pics.. I just have to load them...

 

good luck with your plan-I hope you can take it with you. You asked about seeing my tilt front end. I put some photos on my profile gallery today--look through them, I'm sure there are some of the tilt. I recall for sure how tight that passenger side Sanderson Header fits--I think I even notched the frame a little to make it happen. I've got a totally boxed frame all the way back, so I can mess with it a little. Good luck with the wiring--I've got the 4 headlights and everything routes through this kinda unusual relay that is unique to a 4 headlight set up. I couldn't find much on it until I emailed Painless wiring and they gave me the exact NAPA part number etc, and the part came with wiring instructions so I was good to go. Everything pretty much runs to the relay and the dimmer switch. The actual in dash headlight switch doesn't do much-just off and on and a connection for the rear running lights(tail lights). I'm not suggestion your year truck is the same-I'm just giving you my story.

Good luck Tom

 

I wouldn't put a 13lb cap on a stock radiator or even the heavy duty ones mid-fifty sells. They are rated for only 7lbs. My radiator top tank separated right on the seam during a local car show last year and I had to have it re-soldered. I only had the 14lb cap on for a month or two and then changewd it to a 7 lb when I found out that was supposed to be the one used but it had already weakened the joint.

 

Good work! I envy your energy; necessity is a great motivator isn’t? Just a note about the fan stat, I had one on my BB 37 Ford coupe and it stuck on one night, ran for 10 hours and killed the battery, I put a toggle switch on it.

 

thanks for the support..
I will change the cap tomorrow to a 7lb..thanks you for the heads up it could have cost me

I wired the electrical fan to key on power so that everything is shut off when the ignition is in the off mode. So far it has worked well with key on power. the temp does go up a little bit when I shut her off butnot enough to cook it. I will see in the future if there is anyway to get it to run after the motor is shut down but only for a limited amount of time. kind of light headlamps on new vehicles when you shut the car off.

DO NOT BUY AN AMERICAN AUTOMOTIVE WIRING KIT.
you are better off buying a ton of wire, ends and a fuse box. I have had more trouble trying to make it work than I would have had if I had just wired it myself.. The instructions are ok! and the labled wires are great, and quality is really good too. it is just to universal in my opinion...


UPDATE:
tonight I worked on wiring the brake lights, turn signal, and parking lamps in the rear. I never expected it to take so long.
the wiring kit I bought only had instructions to wire the rear lights in a manner so that they did not work..


HOW TO WIRE YOUR TAIL LAMPS


from your brake switch you run the power wire to the colum (green wire) #18 green in the diagram below.
{this enables the tail lights to power on when you step on the pedal using the same wire the turn signal does.} when I say power wire I mean the wire that has power on it only when the pedal is depressed.

If you look at the diagram you can see that the tail lamp is powered throught the turn signal only when the turn signal is in the neutral position.. once the turn signal it moved it cuts the stop light power source allowing the flasher to do its job.. and your turn signal may come on.

In order for your turn signals to work you must run a switched power wire to the (blue) wire in the colum. this is #18 blue in the diagram below

There for you should have two wires running all the way to each tail lamp. the parking light wire that runs from the headlight switch (blue wire in the diagram below)
http://www.clubfte.com/users/earl/Re...ing%20Diagrams

and the turnsignal/brake wire that runs from the colum to each tail lamp.
and please don't forget the ground wire... on the lamp its self

 

THAT TILT FRONT END IS AWESOME.. i WANT ONE!

 

It should be fairly easy to connect the fan to a thermostat that will power it with the key off. (My old VW diesel was that way....The fan just ran until the temp was below something like 93*C

If you're in ID you must be at Mt Home? Are you going to Elmendorf or Fairchild?


Cheers,

Rick

 

I am going to elmendorf. fairbanks is to cold for me.

wiring wiring wiring.. I think this is the hardest thing of the whole build...

but I am done with all the wiring. engine install. the only two things I have not gotten to work are the wipers... and my fuel gauge.. think I received a bad sender or something..