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  #16  
Old 05-12-2008, 03:35 PM
jeep1947 jeep1947 is offline
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I know this is not the right place to post this but here goes maybe fabman or phydeaux can help. Trying to figure out what brand or type of 12 volt pump to use to pump waste oil with had to marine duty pumps but they lasted no time. Anyone use the whale gulper that is in the Northern Tool catalog? Some of the places I get oil let me use my harbor freight pump but some are too far from restaurant to run cord so i need a 12 volt portable but I want one that will last. The Northern Tool pump is $200.00 do not want to wast any money.Thanks Jeep Taylor
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  #17  
Old 05-12-2008, 04:14 PM
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There is more than one way to skin that cat.
Are you pumping from a closed (tight) drum? if so you can pressurize the drum from an on board air tank, refill the tank with a 12 v air compressor.
Or get an inverter to produce square wave 120 VAC and run your harbor freight pump off of it.
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  #18  
Old 05-12-2008, 04:41 PM
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What is WMO?
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  #19  
Old 05-12-2008, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by travisg96 View Post
What is WMO?
Waste Motor Oil.
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  #20  
Old 05-12-2008, 07:51 PM
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No waste motor oil, its used veg oil from a restaurant. The owner lets me pump from grease pit as needed during week its ok i can plug in the kitchen but on weekends need a battery powered pump. The owner and the rendering co. already got into it had the supervisor out he agreed the oil in the pit belongs to restaurant owner and he can give it to me if he so desires. Which he does. Thanks Fab and Phydeaux. By the way what size inverter do i need for the 1/2 hp harbor freight pump? Jeep
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  #21  
Old 05-12-2008, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jeep1947 View Post
I know this is not the right place to post this but here goes maybe fabman or phydeaux can help. Trying to figure out what brand or type of 12 volt pump to use to pump waste oil with had to marine duty pumps but they lasted no time. Anyone use the whale gulper that is in the Northern Tool catalog? Some of the places I get oil let me use my harbor freight pump but some are too far from restaurant to run cord so i need a 12 volt portable but I want one that will last. The Northern Tool pump is $200.00 do not want to wast any money.Thanks Jeep Taylor
Build a super sucker. Find a pressure tank that can withstand 28 in hg vacuum. Use a vacuum pump (old refrigerator pump works from what I hear), I bought two pumps a 12 volt and an old 110 volt pump off ebay. Each ran me about $35.
Then using a reinforced hose that can hold up to the vacuum that will fit your drum you can pull a vacuum before you leave home or while your on the road then once you get to your collection point stick your hose in and open the valve. Sucks your oil right up. No mess no pumps. I picked up an old 100 gallon Propane tank the other day when I was bringing in a bunch of scrap metal. here are a few examples
biodieselpictures.com :: View Forum - Collection Systems
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  #22  
Old 05-13-2008, 08:13 AM
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jeep
To figure out the size of inverter you need to find out the max amp draw of the pump motor. If you still have the box and/or literature that came with it, that information should be in the specs section. If you threw that stuff away go back to harbor freight and look at one off the shelf.
Once you know the max amps multiply that by 120 to get wattage then buy an inverter larger than that.
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  #23  
Old 05-13-2008, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phydeaux88 View Post
TJ
All of these are metals not additives and are listed as present in the Blackstone report:
Aluminum, postsium, chromium, iron, copper, lead, tin, calcium, sodium, phosphorus, magnesium, and zinc

Boron and silicon are non metals but are also listed as present.
Some reading for you
Blackstone Laboratories - Gasoline Diesel Report Expl
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  #24  
Old 05-13-2008, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjbeggs View Post
Already read it.
You cannot ignore the:

Aluminum: Pistons, bearings, cases (heads & blocks).
Chromium: Rings, a trace element in steel.
Iron: Cylinders, rotating shafts, the valve train, and any steel part sharing the oil.
Copper : Brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil coolers.
Lead: Bearings.
Tin : Bearings, bronze parts, piston coatings.
Nickel : Trace element in steel
Silicon : Airborne dirt, sealers, gaskets

Most of which are wear products
Nor can you ignore the stuff not on the report such as acids, both organic and inorganic, that are combustion waste products.

It is real simple you greatly increase the chance of destroying your engine by burning WMO.
I will not take that gamble.
You may take it if you wish.
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  #25  
Old 05-13-2008, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phydeaux88 View Post
Already read it.
You cannot ignore the:

Aluminum: Pistons, bearings, cases (heads & blocks).
Chromium: Rings, a trace element in steel.
Iron: Cylinders, rotating shafts, the valve train, and any steel part sharing the oil.
Copper : Brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil coolers.
Lead: Bearings.
Tin : Bearings, bronze parts, piston coatings.
Nickel : Trace element in steel
Silicon : Airborne dirt, sealers, gaskets

Most of which are wear products
Nor can you ignore the stuff not on the report such as acids, both organic and inorganic, that are combustion waste products.

It is real simple you greatly increase the chance of destroying your engine by burning WMO.
I will not take that gamble.
You may take it if you wish.
I agree the metals you listed are wear particles. I think the key to his success running the WMO is the 1 micron filter he puts it thru. Bypass filtration has been proven to greatly reduce engine wear by filtering out those metal. I also won't run the stuff in my truck but he feel comfortable with it and I think he has done everything in his power to get it clean.
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  #26  
Old 05-14-2008, 05:44 AM
ta5150 ta5150 is offline
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Wow, alot of people have written stuff since I last looked.

Well, I started running my truck on my magic potion. I have run 127 miles with it so far to and from work. Here's how it ran; when first starting the engine, the engine actually lights off quicker, with less cranking before it is running. There is a larger puff of smoke at startup than w/diesel. The truck idles slightly lower and a little rough when the engine is cold. After 1-2 minutes it idles normally. Driving around there is no more smoke than w/diesel. I tilted my rearview towards my tailpipe to watch, and I can't see any more smoke than normal. This was at a ratio of 6 gallons wmo to 2 gallons diesel, plus three ounces of opti-lube xpd. At 127 miles I filled up my truck w/diesel. At this point I am pretty happy, but I think I'm gonna add a filter heater to help w/cold idle.
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  #27  
Old 05-14-2008, 05:46 AM
ta5150 ta5150 is offline
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Oh, by the way, tjbeggs, I really like your truck, that things is sweet. Too pad its not a rattley old idi like mine.
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  #28  
Old 05-14-2008, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ta5150 View Post
Oh, by the way, tjbeggs, I really like your truck, that things is sweet. Too pad its not a rattley old idi like mine.
Thanks, its only getting better!!
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  #29  
Old 05-15-2008, 11:18 AM
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okay let me share my story...

well I've read read and read heard negative /postive read you smart for doing it your stupid for doing this I have read and read filtering methods and how you can't get certian chemical /particals out for about a year now well fuel prices and a lack of having a cheap gasser to drive forced me to try this (still going to do wvo)

first 55 galon drum from trucking company same oil (belive mobile or shell oil non synthetic)

for a trial run of two week made a small version of my filter ideals...

5 gallon bucket with a drain valve with a t-shirt double over it and 6 speaker magnets on the bottom....

next in line a pump from a camper trailer ,which feeds the second filter factory spin on filter(10 micron) then a house water filter (5 micron) then a fram g-12 filter into a 5 gallon jug... running a 50/50 mix I mix my 2.5 gallon of diesel to my oil before I filter it (1) to thin it (2) to hopefully free some gunk out of the oil........

filter on the truck... after the selctor switch a g12 filter then fuel pump(electric) and then factory spinn on..
first week horrible every day clogged filter up (

the truck... 87 6.9 turbo / with pump turned up.... 410 gear with 2,82000 or 3,8200 only God knows....
leaks oil has a bad headgasket (liquid glass to stop the leak) so the old motor is on it's way out...

first week what a bear every day had to replace the g-12 filter first at 60 miles then 120 then 180 (60 mile trip to work so a 120 round trip) filter was getting clogged up with little black chunks (algea maybe) well now I havethe same filter on for almost a week over 400 miles still good...

running milage sometime up 1 mpg sometimes the same(my mix wasn't consetant) running no differnce except a surge every once in a while (still think my mix not the same each time) pocket book 50 gallons a week at $4 buck = $200 now $100....

second week still on same filter installed last friday
bump the mix the other way 70 wmo 30 diesle running the same mpg same cost $60 a week....

will keep yuo updated building a better system this week end so I can do 55 galons a time and get my mix better and even ....

flame away
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  #30  
Old 05-15-2008, 02:44 PM
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I don't think you'll find many people here that will "flame" you

It's your truck, your $$$$, and your decision. I never have a problem with others using whatever they want to.

The only time I have a problem is when somebody PROMOTES the use of WMO or UNHEATED WVO. Somebody sometime will try it and ruin an expensive engine.

Yes, I promote the use of Biodiesel. I do this from experience (4 years) and the fact that I can present study after study that will show the use of QUALITY MADE Biodiesel will not harm an engine.
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Old 05-15-2008, 02:44 PM
 
 
 
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