engine overhaul
#1
engine overhaul
Hi, I'm a first timer on this forum and I have a general and a few specific questions.
First I have a 2000 model f150 2WD 4.6L Romeo that I'm overhauling the engine in. I have to say that this engine is the most filthly engine inside that I have ever seen. You could wipe grease like stuff out of the valve covers with your finger that was about 1/4 inch thick, but the engine never used any oil. I just got concerned that if I didn't go ahead and overhaul it I would run into some serious problems later.
OK my first question is; does anyone think that this crud inside the engine was caused by my use of Quaker State engine oil? This is the brand of oil I have used for years but I was recently told that Quaker State oil has to much pariffin in it. Has anyone else had this problem? What brand would anyone recomend?
Second, does anyone know where I can get a overhaul manual (such as Chiltons)or something like that that would have the torque specs and bearing clearances in it. I hate to purchase a new one for just this one time overhaul.
OK now to specifics; is there anything special I need to know about the aluminumin heads on this engine? This is the first engine that I have overhauled that had aluminumin heads on it.
Is it necessary to replace the main and rod cap bolts on this engine and would that include all 4 of the main bolts or just the vertical ones?
Thanks for all the help.
First I have a 2000 model f150 2WD 4.6L Romeo that I'm overhauling the engine in. I have to say that this engine is the most filthly engine inside that I have ever seen. You could wipe grease like stuff out of the valve covers with your finger that was about 1/4 inch thick, but the engine never used any oil. I just got concerned that if I didn't go ahead and overhaul it I would run into some serious problems later.
OK my first question is; does anyone think that this crud inside the engine was caused by my use of Quaker State engine oil? This is the brand of oil I have used for years but I was recently told that Quaker State oil has to much pariffin in it. Has anyone else had this problem? What brand would anyone recomend?
Second, does anyone know where I can get a overhaul manual (such as Chiltons)or something like that that would have the torque specs and bearing clearances in it. I hate to purchase a new one for just this one time overhaul.
OK now to specifics; is there anything special I need to know about the aluminumin heads on this engine? This is the first engine that I have overhauled that had aluminumin heads on it.
Is it necessary to replace the main and rod cap bolts on this engine and would that include all 4 of the main bolts or just the vertical ones?
Thanks for all the help.
#2
Engine sludge.
Back when I used to turn a wrench regularly I'd run into some pretty sludged up engines, especially in the valve covers and in the oil pan. In just about every case the cause was due to the dino oil sitting for long periods of time and the oil not getting changed regularly enough. It wasn't necessrily any particular make or model and no particular oil brand, just a lack of regular maintenance. Also an engine that makes many short trips without getting fully warmed up will also cause it as it doesn't get hot enough to burn out all the condensation and by-products of normal ignition. I've seen them so caked up that I'd have to use a putty knife to get all the crud out.
Way back in the day, 1960's, Quaker State got a very bad reputation for producing a cheap oil that caused engine damage nationwide. Took them years to overcome it. To this day I personally don't use it but it's probably as good as the others, just preference.
There may be links on this site to some "depot" level repair manuals but if there isn't you could try Ford.com.
Can't help on any tips or tricks on your rebuild as I've never torn one of these modular engines down but keep in mind that there was several versions of Romeo 4.6's made and that Ford would change some components in mid production so make sure the parts you get are for your particular model and year. (A 4.6 Romeo in a Mustang can have some major differences from a 4.6 Romeo in an F150 of the same yr).
Good luck.
Way back in the day, 1960's, Quaker State got a very bad reputation for producing a cheap oil that caused engine damage nationwide. Took them years to overcome it. To this day I personally don't use it but it's probably as good as the others, just preference.
There may be links on this site to some "depot" level repair manuals but if there isn't you could try Ford.com.
Can't help on any tips or tricks on your rebuild as I've never torn one of these modular engines down but keep in mind that there was several versions of Romeo 4.6's made and that Ford would change some components in mid production so make sure the parts you get are for your particular model and year. (A 4.6 Romeo in a Mustang can have some major differences from a 4.6 Romeo in an F150 of the same yr).
Good luck.
#3
#4
#5
Thanks for the replys. The reason for the overhaul was a low rpm clicking that could be heard at the front of the engine. I thought it was probably a timing chain problem which turned out to be correct, one of the tensioner guides was not only worn out, about half of the metal was eaten through.
As far as the sludge in the engine, about 3 years ago I spent alot of time away from home and the truck suffered for it.
BTW, Ultra, I like the pic you use in your Signature. Is that a beech baron?
As far as the sludge in the engine, about 3 years ago I spent alot of time away from home and the truck suffered for it.
BTW, Ultra, I like the pic you use in your Signature. Is that a beech baron?
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07-24-2003 06:47 PM