Lifting flathead motor and tranny
#1
Lifting flathead motor and tranny
Hi, all...
I'm getting ready to stab the engine/tranny back in the truck. I wasn't too concerned taking the engine out, so just made some quicky 3/8 metal straps to yank it out. But, now that it's all painted,etc, I have a little more concern.
I have seen some people make a plate, that bolts in place of the intake manifold. One had just 6 bolts, lost the pics of the other one. Is this a "safe" way to lift the motor and 4 speed tranny? And if you've done this, how many bolts did you use? I lean towards "overkill", and figured at least 10 bolts, but want to know if others have used this method, whether its recommended, etc before I go through cutting and drilling a steel plate...
Plate like this:
I'm mostly worried about strength of the top of the block, with the tranny on it.
Thanks in advance!!
R
I'm getting ready to stab the engine/tranny back in the truck. I wasn't too concerned taking the engine out, so just made some quicky 3/8 metal straps to yank it out. But, now that it's all painted,etc, I have a little more concern.
I have seen some people make a plate, that bolts in place of the intake manifold. One had just 6 bolts, lost the pics of the other one. Is this a "safe" way to lift the motor and 4 speed tranny? And if you've done this, how many bolts did you use? I lean towards "overkill", and figured at least 10 bolts, but want to know if others have used this method, whether its recommended, etc before I go through cutting and drilling a steel plate...
Plate like this:
I'm mostly worried about strength of the top of the block, with the tranny on it.
Thanks in advance!!
R
#3
"Theoretically", one 1/4" bolt, Grade 3, will support it....yeh. If it bounces on the hook, maybe it takes 2.... theoretically. The more you use, the less chance of distorting the intake surface. (and use Grade 5) With the flywheel and trans on it, you'll probably be lifting with the rearmost hole on the lift plate (a leveler would be good)
I've seen people lift the block w/heads etc with a J-hook stuck into the valve chest. On the assembly line, Ford used a 3"-4"-tall plate that they stuck into the valve chest, turned 90-deg. (crossways to the crank), hooked it under the center intake tubes, and lifted. (short blocks)
I've seen people lift the block w/heads etc with a J-hook stuck into the valve chest. On the assembly line, Ford used a 3"-4"-tall plate that they stuck into the valve chest, turned 90-deg. (crossways to the crank), hooked it under the center intake tubes, and lifted. (short blocks)
#7
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#9
#10
Originally Posted by cts1954
Looks good, I see you decided to paint the centerhead, is that original colour,
I like your heads. Someday, maybe, I'll build a motor from ground up. For now, this will do for my truck. I also have a Fenton dual carb manifold, that I'll eventually use, or sell...or something...
R
#12
#13
Originally Posted by cts1954
Roger
Yours needs some contrast, I personally would do the heads another colour. I powder coated my aluminum heads black and you could something similar and for not alot of money and some crome nut covers would look really nice.
Yours needs some contrast, I personally would do the heads another colour. I powder coated my aluminum heads black and you could something similar and for not alot of money and some crome nut covers would look really nice.
R