460 won't warm up?
#1
460 won't warm up?
Well, I have had vehicles that run too hot before, never one that wouldn't warm up!?
I drive about 30 miles one way and on a cold day I usually start it up a few minutes before I leave. What puzzles me is, how could this thing not warm up to operating temperature?
I thought that maybe the thermostat was stuck open, so I put a new one in. The temperature still seems too low.
The other night it was about 30*F, even after driving 30 minutes, the heater was blowing "warm" air, but not hot and the gauge would not go any higher than just below the "C" hash mark?
Thanks in advance
Eric
I drive about 30 miles one way and on a cold day I usually start it up a few minutes before I leave. What puzzles me is, how could this thing not warm up to operating temperature?
I thought that maybe the thermostat was stuck open, so I put a new one in. The temperature still seems too low.
The other night it was about 30*F, even after driving 30 minutes, the heater was blowing "warm" air, but not hot and the gauge would not go any higher than just below the "C" hash mark?
Thanks in advance
Eric
#3
Originally, when I noticed that it was taking a long time to warm up, I suspected that it was stuck open or maybe the previous owner had taken it out completely, since I did purchase the truck in the summer 3 years ago. When I pulled off the housing though, it did have a 195* in it. The new one I replaced it with is a high flow Moroso 180*, I figured this would be a good time to go with it since I had wanted to put a 180* in it anyways. From what I have read, the 180* is a good performance choice and keeps the engine warm enough to not increase cylinder wear.
It may be all in my head, but I could swear that this thing didn't run so cool in the previous winters I have owned it. Maybe I should block off a portion of the radiator and see if that helps?
Does anyone know the approximate number values for the hash marks on a factory temperature gauge? I assume that the "normal" area on the gauge is just that and it shouldn't be running cooler than that, should it?
Thanks in advance
Eric
It may be all in my head, but I could swear that this thing didn't run so cool in the previous winters I have owned it. Maybe I should block off a portion of the radiator and see if that helps?
Does anyone know the approximate number values for the hash marks on a factory temperature gauge? I assume that the "normal" area on the gauge is just that and it shouldn't be running cooler than that, should it?
Thanks in advance
Eric
#4
#6
Be careful of the 180 thermostat. The computer will cause the engine to run faster (high idle) until the temperature comes up. Water temperature is the second in the hierarchy of inputs to the computer. I've had this problem in my 1991 460. Put the 180 in and it caused all kinds of problems including not getting hot and running at high idle. Emissions suffered too!
#7
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#8
So how is putting a cooler thermostat in going to put more heat into the motor? It can't and won't. Get a 195° (the old one will do) and put it in then start trouble shooting the temp problem. You could have a plugged heater core causing your low heater output and stock guages are know for bad readings. Rent or buy an infared temp gun and find out what temp the engine is actually running at and what the temps are at different places on the engine.
#9
#10
Originally Posted by Bear 45/70
So how is putting a cooler thermostat in going to put more heat into the motor?
I was simply trying to fix what I thought was a stuck thermostat. 180* is obviously 15* cooler than a 195*, that was not and is not the issue. It is not even warming up to the "C"! The problem has not worsened or improved as a result of my changing the thermostat. I realize that it is winter time and it is obviously cool here, but its not exactly the artic circle here in SE Oklahoma, I mean 30s at night and 50s during the day would be considered quite temperate and mild to most folks.
As far as the heater core thing goes, this is the good stuff, thats something that has definetly not been ruled out and not something I had thought of. That is certainly something that I want to check out next. A friend of mine has one of those guns your talking about, so I may be able to check these things you mention very soon.
Thank you for the time and advice that you all have shared
Eric <><
#12
Originally Posted by i1dery
scrap the HIGH FLOW THERMOSTAT see post #9
Thank you for your insight
Eric <><
#13
Okay, have your point, know let me add another thing to ponder, maybe your thermoly activated fan (clutch type) is not operating correctly and not disengaging when you
have sufficient air flow through the radiator, does what I said make sense? almost
sounds confusing to me. And one more thing is the radiator core the original? if not,
maybe the guy that had it before you put one that is an extra capacity and to big for
your truck, maybe?
have sufficient air flow through the radiator, does what I said make sense? almost
sounds confusing to me. And one more thing is the radiator core the original? if not,
maybe the guy that had it before you put one that is an extra capacity and to big for
your truck, maybe?
#14
The fan I have wondered about. I have asked around and most say that if the fan is fully engaged all the time, it would make alot of wind noise that would be abnormal. I have not noticed that, but that doesn't exactly rule it out.
The radiator is factory stock, as far as I know. What I do know for sure is, there has not been a problem in the past 2 winters and no cooling components have been changed.
Something I did not mention before, I did check the coolant level and it does have plenty of coolant.
Thank you guys
Eric <><
The radiator is factory stock, as far as I know. What I do know for sure is, there has not been a problem in the past 2 winters and no cooling components have been changed.
Something I did not mention before, I did check the coolant level and it does have plenty of coolant.
Thank you guys
Eric <><
#15