A few months ago I posted a thread about a new vibration that started immediately following an oil change. Well I never cured the situation. It still vibrates despit diffrent oil and what not.

I recently had my truck at Diesel Innovation for some repairs. I asked David Lott, the master of all things 7.3, what causes the vibration/fluctuation in my idle. He recommended running some Gunk brand Motor Flush thru the lubrication system before my next oil change. He claimed to have cleaned motors with it before and felt confidenmt that it would rectify my situation.

Well.......the time has come to change my oil and I'm having reservations about using the flush. I bought the oil, filter, and gunk this evening. I even called David to make sure I had the right stuff. What concerns me must is it says right on the bottle that it is not to be used with turbo charged motors. I mentioned this to David and he wasn't concerned.

To fuel the fire the guy at AZ told me some kid put the stuff in his Jeep and let it run longer than the recommended time and it damaged his heads. The claimed it started smoking right after he used it. Now he only had 4-5 quarts of oil in his pan so the ratio of Gunk to oil is much higher than it will be in my four gallons of oil. David recommended putting two bottles in and letting the motor idle for 5 minutes. Then drain, change filter, and refill.

What do you think? I really want to cure the vibration/fluctuation in my idle. David is no shad tree mechanic. I have no reasion to mistrust his word. BUT I must admit I am a littl enervous about using the stuff.

What would you do?

 

you said it your self "The Master of all things 7.3" I would trust him with confidence.

 

I wouldn't do it, remember your injectors use oil and it goes through a very small orifice. I'm no expert but, I don't think the injectors like anything but fuel and oil. Everything I have read on here says don't do it. Maybe someone else with more knowledge will chime in. Consider this a bump.

 

Gunk Motor Flush......I used it and it did exactly what I wanted it too. I just drove the truck to the BioD station, stopped for lunch, drove home. The dash no longer vibrates. Thanks David!

I put 2 quarts in the motor this morning. I ran it for 5 minutes and then changed the oil and filter. It took forever to drain the oil because five minutes idling didn't even budge the temple guage. I then refilled w/Rotella 15w 40 instead of delo. The vibration/idle fluctuation is gone.

Good stuff.

 

For me this is a surprising developement.
Diesel engines don't build up a bunch of sludge inside like gas engines do. They just get really really black inside if you don't change the oil often enough, but no deposits from blow by gasses build up on the inside like on a gas engine.
I was going to come into this thread and respectfully disagree with David Lott, whom I have the highest respect for. He's the equivelent of Jody Tipton in many ways.
So for this Gunk treatment to work, I'm surprised and am the first to admit to always learning new things every day.

 

Wow. Can't argue with that. I know that David knows 100 times more about these things than I do.

 

For now, the actual oil capacity (with stock cooler, pan, and hpop) is 17.5 quarts.
Only 15 quarts of which is actually drained and refilled.

Which would leave me to believe that this 'cleaner' is still present. IMO, is not a good thing.

But, how do you question David Lott?

I wouldn't mind hearing an explanation from him how nitrous blows up diesel motors...

 

That's an easy one. You just keep turning it up until it breaks.

 

Dan, nitrous won't blow up a diesel motor. It can't, it's just air.

 

LOL. Sort of. I believe that one part oxygen combined with extra fuel yields large potential for combustion at a perhaps less than optimum timing creating excessive cylinder pressure. Even timed properly, cylinder pressure will be very high and when it exceeds design limits there you go.

At least that is how I think about it. Backing the fuel off would change the pressure some I would think. I wonder if you could blow a stock injected HPOP engine with nitrous alone? Anyone know?

 

you can blow any motor with Nitrous, if you spray to much of it. thats the reason why a lot of people dont use it, and if they do on the gasburners, they say wet injection is the best.
on a stock motor 50 shot is max thats safe, on properly tuned motor with high flow intake and exhaust 75-100 shot, and racing motors , thats a diferent story..

i knew a guy with Mitsu galant 1980 or so turbo motor, this guy would win the races with built Cammaros and Mustangs. Why? and How? he had 4X4 and spayed 200shot of NOS. well that lasted bout 2 weeks, but he won enough money to buy another car.LOL

 

Of course.
I was making assumptions that we know it's the extra oxygen that adding fuel will need to burn.
Otherwise the engine would simply overfuel and lose power. (Gas engine)
Diesel: just more smoke but no extra power. Add enough oxygen to clear the smoke and here comes the HP.

 

In a gas burner, too much nitrous can blow up your engine. In a diesel engine, too much nitrous will make the motor, sputter, spit, and shutter. And of course lead to less power.

You can't blow a diesel motor with nitrous.
You can sure choke one good with it!

 

Frankly, I was suprised it worked also. David commented that Ford labels the IPR and HPOP as NOT servicable. He claims to have used thuis treatment on numerous motors to service everything the oil comes into contact with.

At $2.99 a quart and $6 bucks for a flush its hard to beat.

 

Ok, I'm learning here.
I've never played with NOX. I just know that it adds O2 to the airstream entering the engine.
.
I've often wondered why someone doesn't just hook up a big O2 bottle.
Seems like you could get outragous HP out of a beefed up 2.0 turbo 4 cylinder with 100% O2 to burn.