Buzz Test Help
#1
Buzz Test Help
Anybody on the west side of Houston (I am in Sealy) willing to help me do a buzz test. I don't have a good enough scanner.
The truck feels as if it has a dead miss. SES is on. No smoke.
My Diablo programer is giving me a P1316 (IDM) P0478 (EPCV high input) and P0470 (E P sensor) codes. My harnesses and connections look good.
My batteries are crap. Can weak batteries cause this?
Thanks.
Late 99 225,000ish miles
The truck feels as if it has a dead miss. SES is on. No smoke.
My Diablo programer is giving me a P1316 (IDM) P0478 (EPCV high input) and P0470 (E P sensor) codes. My harnesses and connections look good.
My batteries are crap. Can weak batteries cause this?
Thanks.
Late 99 225,000ish miles
#2
Originally Posted by joegebff
My batteries are crap. Can weak batteries cause this?
Thanks.
Late 99 225,000ish miles
Thanks.
Late 99 225,000ish miles
#3
#4
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Ardenvoir, Washington
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Did you pull both valve covers to check your connectors and harnesses? My 99 had the exact same thing happen about 6 months ago.. I got the P1316 fault code and a bad miss.. You can check the ohm resistance at the 9 pin connectors at the top of both valve covers. (without removing them)
But, what you really need to do is to pull the covers, (you can reuse the valve cover gaskets) and you will find the plastic connector for your injectors and glow plugs is simply loose.. I found mine apart by about 1/4".. I pushed it back to together and made a home shim and slipped behind the two plastic locking tabs. the connector is a poor design. The tabs just warp and allow the connector to separate.. (Ford resigned these connectors in 2003). See my gallery for pic's of a loose connector (& a tight one) and my home made shim.. Total cost of my repair was $0, just my labor..
Here is the info for checking before pulling the covers...
Get an ohm meter (get a digital readout), you can check your glow plugs/injectors by unconnecting the 9 pin connectors at both of the valve covers (near top edge) and use the following info: (You do not need to remove the valve cover)(use care checking these pins, they can be damaged)
GGIICIIGG
G = Glow Plug
I = Injector +
C = Injector -
Ohms between the G and block Ground should be 0.1 - 2.0 ohms.
Ohms between the I and C one at a time if one or more is > 5 ohms, it will point to the which gasket connector is open and not making connection.. or UVC harness being shorted.
But, what you really need to do is to pull the covers, (you can reuse the valve cover gaskets) and you will find the plastic connector for your injectors and glow plugs is simply loose.. I found mine apart by about 1/4".. I pushed it back to together and made a home shim and slipped behind the two plastic locking tabs. the connector is a poor design. The tabs just warp and allow the connector to separate.. (Ford resigned these connectors in 2003). See my gallery for pic's of a loose connector (& a tight one) and my home made shim.. Total cost of my repair was $0, just my labor..
Here is the info for checking before pulling the covers...
Get an ohm meter (get a digital readout), you can check your glow plugs/injectors by unconnecting the 9 pin connectors at both of the valve covers (near top edge) and use the following info: (You do not need to remove the valve cover)(use care checking these pins, they can be damaged)
GGIICIIGG
G = Glow Plug
I = Injector +
C = Injector -
Ohms between the G and block Ground should be 0.1 - 2.0 ohms.
Ohms between the I and C one at a time if one or more is > 5 ohms, it will point to the which gasket connector is open and not making connection.. or UVC harness being shorted.
Last edited by clintbonnie; 12-04-2007 at 12:46 PM.
#5
#6
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Ardenvoir, Washington
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Originally Posted by joegebff
Thanks Clint.....dead on. The passenger's side. What you didn't tell me is that it is quite the PITA for a 'full size fellow'. But I did giterdone. Thanks again.
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