Is there any fuel in the valley? You should be seing 55psi without the BB in the FPR and a general rule of thumb is +10psi after the BB mod. I would pull that snubber off and just read the highest spike poin on the gauge if you can get it started that way it will give us a better idea as to wether this is a fuel related problem or some other issue.

Cowboy Steve

 

I'd say it's more likely that the fuel pump is on the way out than it is that two fuel pressure gauges are off and reading the same thing.

 

I'd like some clarification on this part of your gauge install, please. Did you remove the schrader valve and put the 1" brass nipple and 90* elbow in front of the schrader valve?

If so, the FPR spring seats inside the schrader valve and regulates the fuel pressure. The FPR shim should have the BB in first, the spring holding the BB in and the schrader valve holding in the spring.

I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, (I'd like to get one, so please let me know what gauge you have and where you bought it), but I think the gauge components should connect to the schrader valve, not replace it.

 

Spool valve and schrader valve are separate part locations.

Bill

 

Rog talked about a snubber and the schrader valve. What's a spool valve and what's it for?

 

Spool valve is the FPR.

Bill

 

maybe fpr shim was done incorrectly? maybe a component fell out with out you knowing? plunger+BB+Spring+cover with tit lined up on spring. other than that sounds like when my fuel pump went out. good luck

 

Sorry I took so long in getting back to all of you , damn inter-net goes to sleep every so often.

OK, here is the up date, I may be repeating myself but I can do that as I'm old. There is NO fuel in the valley. I have no leaks. The schrader valve is a 1/8" pipe thread. There is nothing behind it. The FPR is next to the schrader and in comparison is much larger. I used the pix that was supplied by TJ (I think) and I am positive that I have that correct and bear in mind, I have been driving around for several weeks after I did the FPR Mod.

Now, my plan is to remove the snubber and just install the gauge and see what I get for a reading. I do believe in my heart that it will be a low reading.

If it is still low I plan on pulling the filter and the stand pipe and to make sure everything is squeeky clean and clear. I will also pull the FPR screen and clean that as well.

I think that I told you that I finally got it running and it feels like it is hitting on 71/2 Cylinders.

I have been dumping alot of "Diesel Kleen" in the fuel these past months as well as some of that stuff that prevents algea. It is very possible that a whole lot of crap is plugging the screen but, I don't think that is it, but we'll see.

One question that I am not sure of is: "Is the fuel pump and the HPOP" one of the same?

It's 2230 hrs here and still raining like that cow standing over a flat rock.
I'll do an up date tomorrow as to what I have found and what the fuel pressure is with out the "Snubber".
Roger

 

When you do your pressure test. Test idle pressure then test WOT pressure. Remove chip if you have one for the WOT test.
PSD does not need alot of pressure to start or try and start. It needs the pressure to run. WAG---If your old tests of 20psi were correct. The BB mod could of stressed the allready weak pump, and finished it off.

Bill

 

I don't think the issue you have now is fuel pressure related. Ryan started to mention it but I think you have a wiring issue at/ in the valve cover or a shorting wiring in the main engine harness to the injectors.

 

roger,hpop & fuel pump are Difference animals kurt

 

OK here is the scoop. Pulled the FPR and the screen was totally blocked. I couldn't even blow through it. Cleaned that screen and pulled the filter and the heater out and there was a small amount of black sediment on the bottomso that got cleaned out.

Put everything back together and I did not hook up the heater. It was a little rought getting it started but nothing like yesterday.

I still had the snubber in place so I fired it up and it feels like it's running on all Cyl's but the WOT is sluggish and slow. Idles like it should, Plus I got a CEL. That code was
"P1395" can't find that on my list of codes.

I will now go back out and eliminate the snuber and se if I get an increase in pressure as cleaning the screen did not show an improvement.

Rog

 

Bad harnesses would give you a 20lb fuel pressure reading????........

Cowboy Steve

 

Code List
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/ford/

We need to see your idle and WOT pressure.

Bill

 

First, thanks for the codes Bill, I already have them and they have been next to me all through this ordeal. I still don't know what P1395 is.

UPDATE:
I have been mis-leading you guys for I have been reading the pressure gauge incorrectly. It was not 20# it was and is 10#.

That is the reading that I get with or without the snubber. There is a small amount of needle fluction with out the snubber but not enough to be a concern. The highest reading that I could get at WOT was about 20#.

I even removed the BB FPR mod and there was no difference. Even cleaning that damn FPR screen didn't make a difference and that screen was plugged shut. Nothing I do brings the fuel pressure up. Throttle response has returned to normal, it pops right up there. Although I didn't get a CEL I checked for codes and once again got P1395 and P1000

Does anybody know what a P1395 code is??

Soooooooo......what do I do next and were is the fuel pump and do you have to use USMC C-4 to get to it?

I really do appreciate all of the help that so many of you have given, just don't stop now!lol

I did take a couple of photos of the clogged FPR screen but I don't know how to post them so if you want to see them send me a PM with your E-mail address and I send them to you that way.(I know how to do that)

Rog