truck won't start
#1
truck won't start
Hey guys, my name is Andy and I am just about done with a full frame off restoration of a 53 f250. My father and I bought the truck years ago and just were able to get the time to finish what we started a while back. Everything was going smoothly until...
It started as we couldn't get the truck started using the key. We would tow start it and the thing would fire right up. Next, I changed the ignition switch and the thing fired under key. 2 days ago, I started the truck using the key, drove it around the block, and then shut it down. Went to start it about an hour later and nothing under key. Tow started it and it fired again. I changed the ignition switch and nothing. Now the thing won't even start when we tow start it.
It has plenty of fuel, new cap, new rotor, new coil, new plug wires, new starter solenoid, static timed it numerous times, pertronix ignitor pickup, stock dizzy, new wiring harness.
I have checked the grounds, wires from coil to distrbutor, key switch, coil, etc.. I am getting power to the coil sometimes. I get zero and then bumpr the starter button and get 5.9 volts across the coil. I am only getting 3-4 volts across the coil when cranking the motor over. We are also stimped with the timing when running. We hooked up a timing light to the #1 wire and got nothing. We hooked it up to every wire except for that one and got the light to work?????
We had this thing running great and now it is getting dangerously close to getting shot! I am getting married in two weeks and this thing is supposed to be our limo....I'm starting to get a little nervous. PLEASE HELP!!!!!
Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance guys.
Andy
It started as we couldn't get the truck started using the key. We would tow start it and the thing would fire right up. Next, I changed the ignition switch and the thing fired under key. 2 days ago, I started the truck using the key, drove it around the block, and then shut it down. Went to start it about an hour later and nothing under key. Tow started it and it fired again. I changed the ignition switch and nothing. Now the thing won't even start when we tow start it.
It has plenty of fuel, new cap, new rotor, new coil, new plug wires, new starter solenoid, static timed it numerous times, pertronix ignitor pickup, stock dizzy, new wiring harness.
I have checked the grounds, wires from coil to distrbutor, key switch, coil, etc.. I am getting power to the coil sometimes. I get zero and then bumpr the starter button and get 5.9 volts across the coil. I am only getting 3-4 volts across the coil when cranking the motor over. We are also stimped with the timing when running. We hooked up a timing light to the #1 wire and got nothing. We hooked it up to every wire except for that one and got the light to work?????
We had this thing running great and now it is getting dangerously close to getting shot! I am getting married in two weeks and this thing is supposed to be our limo....I'm starting to get a little nervous. PLEASE HELP!!!!!
Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance guys.
Andy
#2
#3
Does it turn over when you turn the key? or is it completely dead! If it turns over and cranks but just won't start, check the red wire from the pertronix unit. It might not be connected correctly to the power source. I had problems with mine when I ran the red wire to the same post with the ignition switch (hot) wire and it caused the unit not to work correctly. I switched to ignition (hot when the key is on). Then it worked just fine.
#4
I forgot to add that this is a 6 volt negative ground system, stock coil, cap rotor, etc. New starter as well. I checked the pertronix unit as per the techs for pertronix and it has 5.9 volts while cranking to the mounting plate inside the dizzy. I have it wired as follows:
ignition(from key) wire attached directly to black and white pertronox wire. The other pertronix wire goes directly to the negative post on the coil. The positive post is wired directly to the positive side of the battery.
I tested the wire for the number 1 with an inline spark tester. It showed I have spark, but not when I hooked the timing light up to it????
I am officially stumped......
I will go back and check all of the grounds for the 4th or 5th time because I know that is all that is really stressed on the site as far as wiring gone bad goes. Any other suggestions?
Thanks guys.
ignition(from key) wire attached directly to black and white pertronox wire. The other pertronix wire goes directly to the negative post on the coil. The positive post is wired directly to the positive side of the battery.
I tested the wire for the number 1 with an inline spark tester. It showed I have spark, but not when I hooked the timing light up to it????
I am officially stumped......
I will go back and check all of the grounds for the 4th or 5th time because I know that is all that is really stressed on the site as far as wiring gone bad goes. Any other suggestions?
Thanks guys.
#5
#6
What do you mean by rolls and then hits a hard spot? Cranks, but then seems to get stuck? Have you checked the timing? maybe move the dizzy either advanced or retard while cranking it and see if that gets rid of the hard spots your talking about. BTW- The pertronix unit you bought is for a 6Volt system, correct? My unit only has one black wire and one red. The black goes to the - side of the coil and the red to the ignition switch. But I'm running 12V.
#7
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#8
Originally Posted by rswhitmore
Have you had any loss of coolant? The cranking then hitting a 'hard spot' could be hydrostatic lock from coolant leaking into a cylinder from a bad head gasket.
#9
checked the oil and it's good. I rebuilt this engine and it only has about 10 miles on it. It was running great for a week or so and then this. I tried retarding and advancing the timing with no luck. I'm going back to the points tomorrow because I have a hard time trusting the pertronix unit without a visual spark like the points will give me when testing them. I made some progress today by playing with the cap and high tension wire which means it is ignition. I'm getting closer to the source I think. My plugs look pretty black, but the electrode is still flat and not rounded. I think they should be fine. It almost feels like the firing order is off, but checked that. I can get it to run from tow starting it now, but it barely runs and does not respond to giving it any fuel. It just bogs down and there isn't enough power to even drive in first gear.
#10
Have you checked the carb? Is it getting fuel consistently? Float levels? If the plugs are running black, that means too much fuel and it's not burning it off. Unless, the pertronix unit is defective, it shouldn't be that either. It sounds like it may a fuel problem? I'm only guessing because it's hard to say without being there and looking at it. Check the fuel pump and the accelerator pump at the carb.
#11
What engine is this? A flat V8 or a 6?
According to a Pertronix instruction manual I found on their site, you have the ignitor unit wired backwards:
http://www.pertronix.com/downloads/ignitor6vpos.pdf
According to a Pertronix instruction manual I found on their site, you have the ignitor unit wired backwards:
http://www.pertronix.com/downloads/ignitor6vpos.pdf
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I'm waiting on parts coming in. There are supposed to be here by 3-3:30 this afternoon. In the meantime, my question for you guys is would the pertronix unit give me a slow cranking situation? I also am changing the plugs this afternoon. I'm going to run NGK B6L's. I had champion h10c's in there up until now. What do you guys run?