Howdy,

I've got a 1974 F-100 with a 360 in it and am having a real bitch of a time getting the driver side manifold bolts out. I've tried liquid wrench, a breaker bar, and vice grips. the bolts are rusted enough so that the head is very loose in a 9/16 socket, but too large to fit in a 1/2". My last attempt to get the bolts to break free yielded a trip to the hospital and 8 stitches in my wrist from getting cut on the power steering filler tube.

Anyway, I still need to get the manifold bolts out, and I think I'm going to have to either cut the heads off the bolts or grind them down with an angle grinder. With the tight clearances (break lines, manifold, etc.), neither is an appealing prospect. Any ideas????

Thanks!

Mark

 

Which bolt ? hi or lo front or back (depends on manifold).

6 sided socket ?
metric socket
chisel ?
monkey wrench
multi fit spanners
stud wrench

one of these might fit well enough (to break ? the bolt then the work really begins)

 

The best luck I've had is with the engine warm. FE's are know to break an exhaust manifold bolt or two or three .....

Reggie

 

Actually, there are 4 stuck bolts. All on the top of the manifold. The bolts on the bottom were pretty well oiled (I'll take care of that someday...

I've tried 6 point and 12 point sockets, and I finally found a 13mm that might work (though I haven't tried it). Part of the problem with using vice grips or a monkey wrench is that the mmanifold is pretty close to the bolt head and a fat wrench won't fit between them (and it gets pushed off the head of the bolt).

I've heard of those "metrinch" wrenches (supposidly they work on both metric and imperial sized bolts) that grip the flats rather than the points. Maybe I'll have to find a set and try them out.

I figure once I get the bolt heads off I can get the manifold out of the way and it might be easier to work on the bolts.

Mark

 

The top bolts huh - that is good

Just cut them off.
The will be some serious stud removing then - but you'll have more room.

Be careful - you dont want to be have to keep bandages clean again

 

hey i no what your going through just cut them off with a torch and heat the hell out of the studs they might spin out afterwith a pair of vicegrips, if not burn them out then re drill the holes use a nut and bolt after i just did this last night on my 390.

 

Nut and bolt? Arrrgh, you’re killing me!

Barry

 

try applying heat directly to the bolts before you start cutting. I've found that the expanding/shrinking effect can often times free up those stuck bolts when all else has failed.

 

Try everything, but don't break them. If they bust off flush with the head surface you'll be removing the heads and taking them to a machine shop for repair. Next time I do this job I'll rent a torch and get them red hot a few times. It will be cheaper, faster and easier than my last attempt...
Eric

 

Will a propane torch work or will I need the oxy-acetlyine heat for it to work? I tried heating the manifold with a propane torch and it didn't seem to help at all.

I found a 13mm socket that I think I can whack onto the head of the bolts (they really don't seem to fit in any standard size socket), and I've found some pipe for a longer breaker bar, so I may try that before cutting. If I have to cut, I'm going to have to be very careful to avoid all the brake lines (non-power brakes, I think). They've gotten in the way already.

Thanks for all the good advice. I have more options now than I did before...

Mark

 

I've used my oxy-ace torch. I don't think the propane torch would cut the mustard. Good luck, you dealing with a common problem but you'll prevail in the end.

 

If your truck runs you can drive to the guy with the torch and maybe get it done for a box of cold ones.
Eric

 

>If your truck runs you can drive to the guy with the torch
>and maybe get it done for a box of cold ones.
>Eric

Now that has to be the best idea yet... and make it two boxes (one each, of course).

 

For the last 20 years or so, I take a torch and heat the heads around the bolts with a cold pair of vice grips on the bolts for a heat sink then when you think it about to melt the mental. they will back right out, Then install will new bolts and anti-sieze Hope this helps
GWB

 

dont forget to chase the threads with a tap. also have you tried running the engine for a while until it gets up to operating temperature then trying to remove them? or rev the engine for a while with the to get the exhaust nice and hot