Oil pan gasket
#2
08-01-2007, 10:38 PM
Elder User
Sorry if this is too long, I cut and pasted this info, probably from this forum.
...Terry, '90 F150/302
1987 - 1996 F150 5.0L 4x4 (E4OD) On-Vehicle Oil Pan Gasket Replacement Without Removing Intake Plenum
By Donald J. Huebner, Ph.D.
I. Parts and supplies:
Degreaser (Gunk), carb cleaner or brake cleaner, anti-seize, loctite, Liquid wrench, Kroil, or equivalent. I like a product called PB Blaster because you can spray it on to hard-to-reach parts. Wheel chocks. Assortment of wood blocks, e.g., six inch long pieces of 2x4, and a couple of 1x4 blocks. Magnetic parts tray. Mechanics gloves.
You will need metric and English unit sockets and wrenches. I wish they would go one-way or the other and not mix them up, but…quien sabe?
Fel-Pro Set OS 34508R (fits 1988 to 2001): You get the gasket and some handy studs (SnapUps™) to hold the whole pan assembly together. Should cost less than $30 (http://www.fel-progaskets.com/). Don’t waste your time with multi-piece gaskets unless you are pulling the whole engine. Even then, I would use the above premium gasket.
II. All the repair procedures in Chilton’s, etc., and other posts I read stated that you had to remove the intake plenum…I did not. It would not have helped because a lug on the torque convertor housing hit the lower firewall before the plenum would have. By not removing the plenum you can save yourself aggravation and money. I don’t know if this will work every time but it did work on the above model pickup. You don’t need a lot of space between the block and the oil pan to work in a new one piece gasket.
I will outline the procedure step-by-step. The order is not necessary for some steps, however. The whole process, including replacing the motor mounts took me about 7 hours with breaks. It was 100 degrees outside! If you have a lift, you could probably knock off some of that time.
Wear safety glasses or goggles. There is a lot of junk under the truck that gravity will direct into your eyes!
Procedure:
1. Pressure or steam clean the bottom of the engine and surrounding area. No use getting completely greased out. Remember you’re doing this because it leaks oil. In addition, it will make checking your work afterwards much easier and will help preclude contamination getting into the open oil pan.
2. Raise front end of truck and support on stands, ramps, or better yet a lift. I didn’t have a lift so I put it up on ramps. Make sure the vehicle is securely supported. Chock wheels.
3. Disconnect negative battery terminal. You will have to reset your radio afterwards and it will take a few miles for your computer to reset.
4. Begin draining the motor oil. I did not drain coolant or disconnect any radiator hoses.
5. While the oil is draining, remove the upper radiator fan shroud bolts and lay shroud against fan. The bottom of the shroud is held by clips not bolts. Finish draining oil and replace plug. Time for a new plug? Remove oil filter.
6. Disconnect auto transmission cooler lines from left side of radiator. Watch the bottom one because it will leak fluid. Put a pan down first and then cap off the lines. If you don’t disconnect these lines you run the risk of distorting them when you raise the engine. Use flare wrenches (two) because you sure don’t want to twist off those fittings from the radiator tank!
7. Loosen rear transmission mount nuts and remove front motor mount nuts (bottom ones). These bolts took an 18mm socket on my vehicle. I replaced the motor mounts before proceeding with oil pan gasket. If yours are pretty old it may be wise to do it now while everything is handy.
8. Remove the starter. It will just be in the way and you can’t access the exhaust flange bolts with it in place. The starter bolts on my engine were 13mm.
9. Remove exhaust flange bolts. This will probably require lots of liquid wrench and patience. I was able to use an impact wrench on 3 of the 4 nuts but the upper bolt above the starter can be a real bear because of limited access. The nuts on my truck took a 5/8” socket. Soak with rust buster, tap, and don’t get frustrated. With the exhaust loose, you can replace the pan gasket without removing the pan completely. If you need to totally remove the pan, you will have to support the tranny, remove the cross member and drop the exhaust system. I left the exhaust loose but in place.
10. Using a hydraulic jack and a wood block (2x4) under the oil pan begin raising the engine. Take it easy and check to make sure the plenum does not hit the firewall. A helper is handy during this step. You may need some extra blocks to get your jack up close to the oil pan if you have the truck on stands or ramps. Take it up as high as you can, i.e., until the intake plenum almost touches the firewall. Don’t force it any further!
11. Place a wood block between the motor mounts and support bracket. I used a small block that was 1.25” thick. Carefully lower the engine onto blocks and remove the jack.
12. Remove all the oil pan bolts. There are two sizes. I used a 3/8” socket for all but the end cap bolts that took a ½ “ socket. Do not lose the metal plates that the bolts pass thru. You might want to mark the plates so you can put them back correctly. An air ratchet makes removing all the bolts easier but I would not use it to replace them.
13. The oil pan should drop down. If not, gently tap it but do not distort it! Mine dropped right down with the old crappy rubber gasket. Make sure to remove all of the old gasket and be careful that pieces of the old gasket don’t fall into the oil pan.
14. I spent a good deal of time cleaning the mating surfaces with carb spray and a scotch-brite pad. The cleaner the better! A bunch of cleaner will fall into the oil pan but you can drain it out afterwards. Just don’t drop anything into the pan because it can be a real bear getting it out. You only have a few inches of clearance and getting your hand down there is pretty awkward. I know because I dropped a scotch-brite pad into the pan.
15. The new Fel-Pro gasket called for clean and dry surfaces…no oil, gasket cement, or sealer.
16. When you are satisfied that the surfaces are really clean, you are ready to install the new gasket. Push the dip stick up. The trick now is to work the gasket past the oil pump and inlet screen. Take it easy. It is not too hard to do. Patience. Be sure you have the gasket going the proper direction and the correct side up.
17. Install the “blue studs” from the gasket kit. One in each corner hole. You can put the studs on before fishing the gasket but I found it easier to get the gasket in place first. Then pop the gasket on to the studs. Either way will work fine. Check the alignment and make sure the gasket is in the groove at the front and rear bearing caps. The studs keep everything in line. Raise the pan and snap it onto the studs. Pretty cool!
18. Check to make sure everything is aligned and clean, and begin reinstalling the oil pan bolts. Don’t forget the metal load spreader plates. I used blue loctite on each cleaned bolt. Don’t torque them down too tight just yet. Get them all in and then remove the blue studs. Put the last four bolts in place. Gradually tighten all the bolts. I torqued them to 12 ft/lb. It is handy to have lots of extensions and u-joints. Double-check to make sure all the bolts are tight and you can see even, undistorted “blue gasket” all around the joint. Drain any residual cleaner from pan and replace the drain plug.
19. Raise the engine slightly, remove wood support blocks and lower engine back on to motor mounts but leave the nuts loose. You may have to shift things around a bit. Be careful what you pry against.
20. Reconnect the exhaust pipes. Make sure that both of them are fitted before you begin tightening bolts. This may require a little persuasion to get them to line up. Evenly tighten the bolts. I placed anti-seize on the previously cleaned threads. If your stud bolts are pretty corroded you should probably replace them with new ones.
21. Tighten the motor mount nuts, reinstall the starter, and oil filter.
22. Reconnect transmission cooler lines and replace radiator fan shroud. Don’t forget that the shroud has to seat into the bottom clips.
23. Don’t forget to fill up the engine with oil! Hook up the battery ground. Check everything over once more; make sure no trouble light cords, etc. are hanging in engine compartment. Remove stands or ramps. Don’t forget the oil!!
24. Start the engine. Check for oil and exhaust leaks. You might have to cinch down those exhaust bolts a quarter turn or so. At this point you don’t want to break off the studs so take it easy.
25. If the oil leak was your pan gasket, you should be back in business, if it was the rear main or front seal you got another job ahead!
26. Test drive and check for leaks. Success! And, you saved considerable bucks.
The above worked for me but I cannot necessarily guarantee that it will work for you. I have been working on cars/trucks for 40 plus years so I take some things for granted. My assumption is that you are familiar with engine/vehicle parts and various tools. Therefore, I may have left out a step or two but the above procedure will work if you are patient about cleaning the gasket surfaces and snaking the new gasket in place. Be careful when raising the engine and keep an eye on the intake plenum. And, don’t forget those safety glasses. A scratched cornea or degreaser in the eyes is no fun.
...Terry, '90 F150/302
1987 - 1996 F150 5.0L 4x4 (E4OD) On-Vehicle Oil Pan Gasket Replacement Without Removing Intake Plenum
By Donald J. Huebner, Ph.D.
I. Parts and supplies:
Degreaser (Gunk), carb cleaner or brake cleaner, anti-seize, loctite, Liquid wrench, Kroil, or equivalent. I like a product called PB Blaster because you can spray it on to hard-to-reach parts. Wheel chocks. Assortment of wood blocks, e.g., six inch long pieces of 2x4, and a couple of 1x4 blocks. Magnetic parts tray. Mechanics gloves.
You will need metric and English unit sockets and wrenches. I wish they would go one-way or the other and not mix them up, but…quien sabe?
Fel-Pro Set OS 34508R (fits 1988 to 2001): You get the gasket and some handy studs (SnapUps™) to hold the whole pan assembly together. Should cost less than $30 (http://www.fel-progaskets.com/). Don’t waste your time with multi-piece gaskets unless you are pulling the whole engine. Even then, I would use the above premium gasket.
II. All the repair procedures in Chilton’s, etc., and other posts I read stated that you had to remove the intake plenum…I did not. It would not have helped because a lug on the torque convertor housing hit the lower firewall before the plenum would have. By not removing the plenum you can save yourself aggravation and money. I don’t know if this will work every time but it did work on the above model pickup. You don’t need a lot of space between the block and the oil pan to work in a new one piece gasket.
I will outline the procedure step-by-step. The order is not necessary for some steps, however. The whole process, including replacing the motor mounts took me about 7 hours with breaks. It was 100 degrees outside! If you have a lift, you could probably knock off some of that time.
Wear safety glasses or goggles. There is a lot of junk under the truck that gravity will direct into your eyes!
Procedure:
1. Pressure or steam clean the bottom of the engine and surrounding area. No use getting completely greased out. Remember you’re doing this because it leaks oil. In addition, it will make checking your work afterwards much easier and will help preclude contamination getting into the open oil pan.
2. Raise front end of truck and support on stands, ramps, or better yet a lift. I didn’t have a lift so I put it up on ramps. Make sure the vehicle is securely supported. Chock wheels.
3. Disconnect negative battery terminal. You will have to reset your radio afterwards and it will take a few miles for your computer to reset.
4. Begin draining the motor oil. I did not drain coolant or disconnect any radiator hoses.
5. While the oil is draining, remove the upper radiator fan shroud bolts and lay shroud against fan. The bottom of the shroud is held by clips not bolts. Finish draining oil and replace plug. Time for a new plug? Remove oil filter.
6. Disconnect auto transmission cooler lines from left side of radiator. Watch the bottom one because it will leak fluid. Put a pan down first and then cap off the lines. If you don’t disconnect these lines you run the risk of distorting them when you raise the engine. Use flare wrenches (two) because you sure don’t want to twist off those fittings from the radiator tank!
7. Loosen rear transmission mount nuts and remove front motor mount nuts (bottom ones). These bolts took an 18mm socket on my vehicle. I replaced the motor mounts before proceeding with oil pan gasket. If yours are pretty old it may be wise to do it now while everything is handy.
8. Remove the starter. It will just be in the way and you can’t access the exhaust flange bolts with it in place. The starter bolts on my engine were 13mm.
9. Remove exhaust flange bolts. This will probably require lots of liquid wrench and patience. I was able to use an impact wrench on 3 of the 4 nuts but the upper bolt above the starter can be a real bear because of limited access. The nuts on my truck took a 5/8” socket. Soak with rust buster, tap, and don’t get frustrated. With the exhaust loose, you can replace the pan gasket without removing the pan completely. If you need to totally remove the pan, you will have to support the tranny, remove the cross member and drop the exhaust system. I left the exhaust loose but in place.
10. Using a hydraulic jack and a wood block (2x4) under the oil pan begin raising the engine. Take it easy and check to make sure the plenum does not hit the firewall. A helper is handy during this step. You may need some extra blocks to get your jack up close to the oil pan if you have the truck on stands or ramps. Take it up as high as you can, i.e., until the intake plenum almost touches the firewall. Don’t force it any further!
11. Place a wood block between the motor mounts and support bracket. I used a small block that was 1.25” thick. Carefully lower the engine onto blocks and remove the jack.
12. Remove all the oil pan bolts. There are two sizes. I used a 3/8” socket for all but the end cap bolts that took a ½ “ socket. Do not lose the metal plates that the bolts pass thru. You might want to mark the plates so you can put them back correctly. An air ratchet makes removing all the bolts easier but I would not use it to replace them.
13. The oil pan should drop down. If not, gently tap it but do not distort it! Mine dropped right down with the old crappy rubber gasket. Make sure to remove all of the old gasket and be careful that pieces of the old gasket don’t fall into the oil pan.
14. I spent a good deal of time cleaning the mating surfaces with carb spray and a scotch-brite pad. The cleaner the better! A bunch of cleaner will fall into the oil pan but you can drain it out afterwards. Just don’t drop anything into the pan because it can be a real bear getting it out. You only have a few inches of clearance and getting your hand down there is pretty awkward. I know because I dropped a scotch-brite pad into the pan.
15. The new Fel-Pro gasket called for clean and dry surfaces…no oil, gasket cement, or sealer.
16. When you are satisfied that the surfaces are really clean, you are ready to install the new gasket. Push the dip stick up. The trick now is to work the gasket past the oil pump and inlet screen. Take it easy. It is not too hard to do. Patience. Be sure you have the gasket going the proper direction and the correct side up.
17. Install the “blue studs” from the gasket kit. One in each corner hole. You can put the studs on before fishing the gasket but I found it easier to get the gasket in place first. Then pop the gasket on to the studs. Either way will work fine. Check the alignment and make sure the gasket is in the groove at the front and rear bearing caps. The studs keep everything in line. Raise the pan and snap it onto the studs. Pretty cool!
18. Check to make sure everything is aligned and clean, and begin reinstalling the oil pan bolts. Don’t forget the metal load spreader plates. I used blue loctite on each cleaned bolt. Don’t torque them down too tight just yet. Get them all in and then remove the blue studs. Put the last four bolts in place. Gradually tighten all the bolts. I torqued them to 12 ft/lb. It is handy to have lots of extensions and u-joints. Double-check to make sure all the bolts are tight and you can see even, undistorted “blue gasket” all around the joint. Drain any residual cleaner from pan and replace the drain plug.
19. Raise the engine slightly, remove wood support blocks and lower engine back on to motor mounts but leave the nuts loose. You may have to shift things around a bit. Be careful what you pry against.
20. Reconnect the exhaust pipes. Make sure that both of them are fitted before you begin tightening bolts. This may require a little persuasion to get them to line up. Evenly tighten the bolts. I placed anti-seize on the previously cleaned threads. If your stud bolts are pretty corroded you should probably replace them with new ones.
21. Tighten the motor mount nuts, reinstall the starter, and oil filter.
22. Reconnect transmission cooler lines and replace radiator fan shroud. Don’t forget that the shroud has to seat into the bottom clips.
23. Don’t forget to fill up the engine with oil! Hook up the battery ground. Check everything over once more; make sure no trouble light cords, etc. are hanging in engine compartment. Remove stands or ramps. Don’t forget the oil!!
24. Start the engine. Check for oil and exhaust leaks. You might have to cinch down those exhaust bolts a quarter turn or so. At this point you don’t want to break off the studs so take it easy.
25. If the oil leak was your pan gasket, you should be back in business, if it was the rear main or front seal you got another job ahead!
26. Test drive and check for leaks. Success! And, you saved considerable bucks.
The above worked for me but I cannot necessarily guarantee that it will work for you. I have been working on cars/trucks for 40 plus years so I take some things for granted. My assumption is that you are familiar with engine/vehicle parts and various tools. Therefore, I may have left out a step or two but the above procedure will work if you are patient about cleaning the gasket surfaces and snaking the new gasket in place. Be careful when raising the engine and keep an eye on the intake plenum. And, don’t forget those safety glasses. A scratched cornea or degreaser in the eyes is no fun.
#3
08-02-2007, 11:34 AM
Lead Driver
To just replace the gasket, you only have to pull the pan bolts and drop the pan onto the frame rail. That gives you enough space to pull out the old gasket, clean the mating surfaces, and install a new gasket. You don't have to disconnect the battery or any transmission lines or anything like that. Should take two hours at most...
Last edited by EPNCSU2006; 08-02-2007 at 11:37 AM.
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