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transmission cooler lines run through radiator?

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  #16  
Old 06-19-2010, 08:32 PM
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Pop,
My Van is a May 1, 2000 Build also, at the Lorain, Ohio Plant.

I ordered the van through Beshore & Koller in PA., the Ford Dealer
that supplies Quigley.

I have the small cooler at the end for the P/S, I think all Super Duty's have them.

The 4 Wheel ABS was an option in 2000 for the 7.3L Vans along with a "One-Up" Front Spring Upgrade. I got all the available options on my Van when I ordered it.

I'm sure the Trucks had the same type of options, or maybe not.
Do all the Trucks have the 4 Wheel ABS or was it an option?

Russ
 
  #17  
Old 06-20-2010, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by yellow73bb
Resurrecting this old post. Still overheating every summer. I put a new fan clutch on this last winter, I replaced the bypass valve last summer, I put in the highest capacity tranny cooler I could fit. Today it went up to 230 pulling up a hill.

I'm thinking I'll have a radiator shop put in a OTW radiator.

I had heard somewhere that a bad torque converter could cause the oil to overheat. Is there any truth to this? It locks just fine at highway speeds, so I'm not sure how it would fail.

Any ideas before I start sinking money into this thing?
Have you replaced the bypass valve?
That is the first thing to do if your tranny is overheating.
 
  #18  
Old 06-20-2010, 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by yellow73bb
I'm thinking I'll have a radiator shop put in a OTW radiator.
While you're at it, have them flow test the radiator. There was a recent thread from another member who was having overheating problems. Turns out his radiator was almost blocked.
 
  #19  
Old 06-20-2010, 02:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Replace your bypass valve.
It's a pattern failure on the automatics and it's cheap, like $40.00.
Too inexpensive of a part to overlook when trying to diagnose hot trannies.
hey do you got the part number for the bypass valve
 
  #20  
Old 06-20-2010, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by cangim
20mph - heavy tow - incline, I don't think the OTW cooler would be as beneficial as a good fan.
The oil to water cooler would be MORE beneficial than a good fan.

Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Have you replaced the bypass valve?
That is the first thing to do if your tranny is overheating.
I disagree. The first thing to do is determine why it's overheating. The bypass valve is rarely the cause, but often one of the symptoms.

Originally Posted by yellow73bb
Resurrecting this old post. Still overheating every summer. I put a new fan clutch on this last winter, I replaced the bypass valve last summer, I put in the highest capacity tranny cooler I could fit. Today it went up to 230 pulling up a hill.
That's because none of those were the problem. The problem is that you need an oil to water cooler to cool the trans at low speeds. The air to oil is just not effective enough at slow speeds.

Originally Posted by yellow73bb
I'm thinking I'll have a radiator shop put in a OTW radiator.
Now you're talking!

Originally Posted by yellow73bb
I had heard somewhere that a bad torque converter could cause the oil to overheat. Is there any truth to this? It locks just fine at highway speeds, so I'm not sure how it would fail.
I don't think there is anything wrong with your converter. Install an OTW in the radiator and I think you'll have this problem solved.
 
  #21  
Old 06-20-2010, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
I disagree. The first thing to do is determine why it's overheating. The bypass valve is rarely the cause, but often one of the symptoms.
Could you elaborate a little on this please?
I've read many a story here on FTE that states replacing the bypass valve solved a lot of overheating problems.
I'm not trying to argue, I want to learn.
 
  #22  
Old 06-20-2010, 12:53 PM
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I've read them, too. I haven't seen one fail. I have seen crimped cooler lines and plugged coolers that make the bypass open. The bypass isn't the problem, it's the cooler lines and/or the cooler that has a restriction. The bypass is doing what it should.
 
  #23  
Old 06-20-2010, 02:23 PM
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Mark, if modding the transmssion raises the system pressure, would the bypass valve work properly as-is, or would the bypass spring be too weak for the increased pressure?
 
  #24  
Old 06-20-2010, 09:43 PM
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The bypass may open when it shouldn't if the line pressure is raised.
 
  #25  
Old 06-21-2010, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
The bypass may open when it shouldn't if the line pressure is raised.
Mark, Those of us that have performance tunes with some added line pressures should we worry about this bypass opening up too soon and causing excessive heat?? And what would be your recommendation, warming up the trans in the stock settings before switching to higher line pressures, tunes?? Just wondering.. Thanks Mark..Don't mean to derail a bit but just had to ask..
 
  #26  
Old 06-21-2010, 05:07 AM
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I don't know that performance tunes will do that. I really don't have a suggestion on how to use a tuner.
 
  #27  
Old 06-21-2010, 07:24 AM
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Well I have my truck set up with a deep tranny pan, and a cooler out of a 6.0 truck. I use royal purple fluid. I have ran it this way for 5 years using only the 6.0 cooler. I bypassed the cooler in the rad when the trans was replaced since it was full of garbage from a convertor / trans failure.

I can pull a 32' trailer with two jeeps on it all day long and my temps run at 180 even up steep mountain grades.

The only time I have been hotter than that is stuck on a 2 mile grade in construction. It was stop and go and about 90 degrees out that day. It got up to 230 for a couple of minutes at the top of the hill. Must have stopped and started on that hill 50 times???
 
  #28  
Old 06-21-2010, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Rick2001
Well I have my truck set up with a deep tranny pan, and a cooler out of a 6.0 truck. I use royal purple fluid. I have ran it this way for 5 years using only the 6.0 cooler. I bypassed the cooler in the rad when the trans was replaced since it was full of garbage from a convertor / trans failure.

I can pull a 32' trailer with two jeeps on it all day long and my temps run at 180 even up steep mountain grades.

The only time I have been hotter than that is stuck on a 2 mile grade in construction. It was stop and go and about 90 degrees out that day. It got up to 230 for a couple of minutes at the top of the hill. Must have stopped and started on that hill 50 times???
just put cheap electric fan that stop that to
 
  #29  
Old 06-21-2010, 03:01 PM
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Yep thats a thought I already had. Thanks!
 
  #30  
Old 07-03-2010, 09:08 PM
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Final report on this:

I had the local radiator shop put in a new radiator with OTW cooling. It helped. In the past, climbing up the mountain mentioned, the temperature gauge would register 250 degrees, which is the max the gauge will register, so it could easily have been a fair bit higher. This trip, the temperature only went to 230 pulling the trailer (about 4000 lbs), and 210 with the pickup alone not pulling the trailer.

The road is a bit difficult I guess because it rises about 2000 ft. in altitude in about 3 miles (after rising about 1000 ft in the previous five miles of decent road). The road is very rough with lots of switch backs -- I think I averaged around 8-10 MPH during the 3 miles.

Anyway, a significant improvement over the last time I went. Thanks or all of the help.
 


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