I have the vibration that only occurs after hitting a bump or pothole then goes away after a few seconds and I think it's probably the needle bearings I've read about. Thing is the driver side hub is supposed to be new but I'm not sure if they are with the new needle bearings pre-installed or not? If so then I'm gonna tear down the passenger side first and check it.

 

The new hub assemblies come with the needle bearings already installed.

 

There is another alternative. Dynatrac makes a kit that converts the sealed hub assembly into a free spinning hub with servicable bearings.

http://www.dynatrac.com/products_freespin.html

It isn't cheap, although if you plan on keeping your truck a while it would be well worth the money. The 2005-2007 is due to be released soon.

 

You can jack the suspect side,for bearings move the tire at 3 & 9 to see if there is any play there should be none.Then try at 12 & 6 for ball joints.

 

there i no play at all in either wheel but after inspecting shocks, track bar bushings, and sway bar bushings it leads me to believe it's about got to be a bearing since I've read a lot of threads on here about needle bearings causing the vibration I'm getting.

 

You have the typical "inner spindle bearing" failure.

Fix it quick.

If you can't fix it quick, LOCK THE HUBS. It won't hurt anything, and the needle bearing won't be wearing out your axle stub

It could still be a bad shock possibly, but here's how to check the needle bearing:

With the hubs unlocked, reach around back of the wheel and turn the u-joint by hand back and forth. If there is any ratcheting or gritty-feel to it, the needle bearings are gone.

Report back

 

Good one...You learn something everyday.

 

great, mine's been doing it since winter.... looks like when i can afford to fix the bearing i'll be replacing a stub shaft too.

is the bearing servicable, or do you have to get the whole new wheel bearing assembly? the wheel bearing is fine, ball joints are new.

 

You can get the inner needle bearing from NAPA or Carquest. It costs around $12 for the bearing. Make sure you write down the number from the end of the bearing before you knock it out so they can match it up.

 

I replaced the needle bearing on the driver side today and my vibration is gone but the stub shaft is wore so I'm afraid this will only be a temporary fix

 

I'll look for my reciept for the stub shaft that I purchased from my local Ford dealer and post the part number for it this weekend.

In my travels I have seen mobile service trucks in truck stops repairing, what I believe, is spindles on Semi's and or trailers and have wondered if they can repair these damaged stub shafts??

 

Here is the part number for the stub axle, 4C3Z-3B387-AA Shaft - Front. The knuckel seal part number is, 3C3Z-3254-CA Seal Asy - oil.

 

does anyone happen to know what this number is? and does the assembly need to be taken in to have this bearing pressed in?

 

National bearing number B-2110 - or at least, it SHOULD be ...

I got the old one out with a "drift" or punch, and put the new one in with a socket and a small hammer - GENTLY.

 

and dont forget

if ignored for long, like i did, the ABS light will come on to remind you to fix the dang thing.

really if it gets that bad you will hear a grinding sound, bad deal, pull over and get AAAd home

and yes a 03 f250 crew cab short bed will fit on the back of a flat bed - the tow guy asked me i told him what i had, he said well will it fit

i said YES

almost missed it by 3 inches

i went the dynatrac way.....i like the idea of being able to service it...easy kit to install...the local ford guys even asked me about it and where to get it