I don't know what the fuel normally looks like when you drain it at the trap, but...

Mine had lots of misc. particles of rust dirt and fillings. Is that normal? I hope that is before the filter, not after.

I have a picture, but don't know how to post it.

 

post up the pic and yes the petcock plug is at the bottom of the bowl before the filter...so if it picks up trash and dirt thats where it settles.

 

[QUOTE=Fluid Power]

I have a picture, but don't know how to post it.[/QUOTE]

 

Absolute easiest way is just to put it in your gallery here and tell people to look in your gallery for the pic.

 

I drain my separator monthly (20 drains thus far) and have yet to have any trash come out. I would question your fuel source as that's the most likely source. I stay away from low volume, off brand sellers.

Another possibility is that if you don't have a locking gas cap maybe someone is putting trash into your tank? Just a thought. I bought a locking cap for mine quite some time ago out of concern about fuel theft. However, it also keeps anyone from monkeying with my fuel.

 

The drain valve is "before" the primary filter.

This way any sediment and/or water is seperated before the filter and can be "flush out" if necessary.

It would appear you may have one or more of the following issues:

1) Poor quality fuel from your filling station (does not use filters on their hoses)?

2) You have used bio-diesel and it is cleaning out some "gunk" in your tank or lines?

3) Someone has put something in your tank?

Just keep checking and replace your filters as needed, or every 15,000 miles as stated in your manual (primary filter and secondary filter). Pics of the fuel filters are in my gallery under "fuel"... and yes, you need to use Racor made (OEM spec'd) fuel filters to get 100% filtration!!!!

 

My original drain plug had rusted at the end..usually it would drop a few specs into the pan..but I never had any crud worth mentioning other than that..I figured the small area where the plug rusted was from where water was?? either way Ive since switched to the updated IH plug which is made out of brass instead of the zinc plated steel and the issue is gone.

 

I got 2K out of my last set of filters and they appeared absolutly immaculate. My fuel pressure was dropping to 20psi on WOT which will KILL injectors VERY quickly. Changed filters and it's 40psi minimum now (normally holds 60 at idle). I have yet to figure out what was plugging the filters as there was not a speck of water or trash. Nothing on the aquabloc and nothing in the pleats of the filter. Diesel Kleen/Powerservice at least every other tank. FWIW the fuel pressure gauge was the most telltale/surprising gauge I've installed out of the four I have. Just goes to show what the quality of our fuel supply is/isn't from day to day or tank to tank.

 

which is why I do my fuel filters about every 7k. Our dealership was actually telling people to do them even more often, Clogged filters and injector problems have been a big problem around here though.

 

dont u mean 20k....???

 

NOPE--two thousand miles MAX. I still haven't figured out what was in the filters that were restricting them. Bowtiehatr told me that maybe it was algae that had gotten through the aquabloc and stopped them up, but I cut it open and could find absolutely nothing. Changed the filters and it's only dropping 5psi at WOT now. I'm absolutely baffled. My wife did tell me she got fuel at a Chinamart that she normally hasn't been stopping at and I told her don't stop there again. I'm pretty **** about maintenance on the truck--I pretty much have to be since it gets run the way it does. It will be getting a FASS 150/180 and a return regulated system as soon as we get the coin. Injectors are just too finicky (sp?) to take a chance on. I wonder how many injector failures are due to that very reason. If I didn't have a fuel pressure gauge I'd have never known.

 

ya thats pretty bad fuel to be plugged at 2k...i would like to get a f/p guage too....i guess u have the billet cap?? if so does it take the reading from the canister on the top of the motor??

 

Actually the fuel looked fine, but then I tried to run the tank as empty as possible before I changed the filters and put in fresh fuel.

No billet cap. There is an adapter hose that screws into the fuel filter housing on top of the motor. You simply remove an allen plug, screw the hose in, screw the sending unit in and run the wires into the cab. The electric gauge and hose cost me about $200 bucks or so (not exactly sure since they came with some other parts), but well worth the investment IMHO. Call Jeremy at LIPD and he can fix you up.

 

alot of econs with alot of right side ( the bad side ) injectors, and several trucks. most of the time it is bad fuel from a rinky dink **** poor station and interstate speeds with a load. nothing wipes them out quicker!!!!

 

I know several folks that have had issues with the right side injectors because of the feed line being restricted from the manufacturing process. Makes some of the A/M fuel systems look better all the time, at least the crossover mod from LIPD.