I have a 1995 F150 supercab 4X4 with 302 auto/wOD with the MAF!! I have already put in new plugs,wires,cap,rotor, air filter, pcv, JBA headers, dual exhaust no mufflers and tires are all at max pressure! I had been getting 16 mpg on average but I just installed a cold air intake and I can't seem to get better than 14 mpg?? What else can I do to improve the mpg other than driving habits and buying a puddle jumper with a 3cyl!

 

Wow. I'm kinda jealous, I have the same setup but its a 93 and I'm getting 10. 10 no matter what, hwy or city towing or not. My goal is 14

 

I get 14mpg max and Im all stock witht he exception of 30x9.5 tires on stock rims. I do however have a cross flow gas tank problem!

 

I have same setup and get 16MPG . 94 F150 sc 4x4 long bed maf 302 E4od 3:55 rears

What kind of cold air intake? The under hood large tube with large filter?

The 94-95 maf Trucks I have worked on had air sensor in the air box if . If you remove stock set up and new doesn't allow for it .This isn't getting right reading. On air moving buy it so it senses the hot engine compartment air and messes with settings. Same for you air system instead of getting the cool but restricted air flow you are getting warm engine compartment air fed to motor.

But I'm in the same boat I drive 500+ miles a week to work . I spent over $250 putting gas in all my rides last week alone. I can't find a ride that you can sit in like a truck.(the legs stretched out with but on ground in most cars kill my back) I need a ride that will haul all my tools . and get good mileage.
LOST

 

If you have mass air your definitely do not want an open air filter right next to it, fan wash and hot underhood air will ruin any potential performace and milage gains. Put the factory airbox back on with a drop in filter and your milage will return.

 

f you are getting 15 or 16 leave it alone. put the stock air box back on and enjoy having a real truck.

 

I agree, restore your factory airbox. If you are running without a muffler, I recommend a Flowmaster to get back your bottom end and maintain proper backpressure. One would think that no backpressure would be best, but any exhaust system that produces zero backpressure under wot conditions will produce backpressure under light throttle conditions that that will contribute to poor economy and a loss of low end torque. I did a custom intake on a small pickup I had and made it a torque monster by fabing a custom intake that was actually smaller than stock. Factory, it could only do maybe 60 - 65 mph up a 6% grade in 4th gear. Now it can do 80 mph plus in 5th on the same grade with the same load. Bigger is not always better.

What you want to aim for is an exahust that scavenges the cylinders. If it is too small, it will restrict you as you open the throttle, but it will be very efficient at low rpm or at cruise, which gives you better economy. If it is too large, the exhaust will scavenger efficiently under high RPM WOT conditions, but at low rpm, the exhaust billows against itself producing backpressure and poor exhaust scavenging.

The same can be true for the intake side as well. A larger intake does not mean the engine will actually draw more air, and an excessively large intake can prevent what is know as velocity induction, where the speed of the air moving through the intake can cause more air to ram inside the cylinders. This usually occurs at that sweet spot right between the peak torque at the peak hp output of the engine. Many performance filters can mess with the fuel managment as well, especially oiled air filter, since the oil can contaminate the MAF sensor. Anyone here know if the AirRaid filters are oil based? They may be a good alternative. I still recommend a factory intake to resolve poor fuel economy.

 

Fuel injector cleaner did wonders for my 92 with the 302/E4OD/3.55 combo. I use "Gumout" every other tank. Get it at Food Lion. I get about 14-15 with my truck lifted 2.5 inches, 33s, and a heavy *** front bumper.

 

I've been in the same boat as yourself. I've got a 95 F-150 SC 4X4 with the GT40 setup. I have been aiming at 17 or 18 mpg, but it just ain't happenin. So I ran across a little Geo Prism for $300 that is in near excellent condition & gets 30 mpg. I figure it'll pay for itself after a month or so of driving.

 

To get better mileage from a 5.0, put it in a car where it belongs!

Jason

 

Someone once told me that if I drop the xfer case and run the tranny directly to the rear axle I could pick up about 4mpg. I never tried it thou. The guy that told me said he pulls his out every sprint and puts it back in just before the snow flies. fwiw.

 

Not sure if this is true or not, but sounds like a pain in the ***.

 

I've always wanted to regear mine so that 1800rpms is about 65mph and see what that does. I don't tow, haul, or race so I don't need the low gears (compared to a car)

 

I was wondering about that open air filter it is a 5" K&N round filter that just attaches with an adapter to the MAF sensor! The factory air box does have that sensor right after the filter that is more than likely my problem!! I re-installed the factory air box with a new filter I will let you know my results!!

 

My exhaust it has JBA headers ,two cats, and then splits into two 2.25" straight pipes out the back. I think it still has plenty of back pressure it isn't very loud even without mufflers! I have the same set up on my 98 ranger 3.0 and my ranger is twice as loud as my F150 with 5.0?