I have been looking at a solid axle conversion for my '83 bronco but when i consider pricing, it might be a year before i ever get the money to pay for it. I don't do a lot of hard-core 4-wheeling but i enjoy messing around on the weekends and during the week i drive it to school. My question is whether the IFS will hold up to weekend off roading and my mistakes driving. I've talked to someone who says it can't be done w/o a solid axle but he isn't the most experienced 4-wheeler. Thanks for your input.

 

You've opened a can of worms here, expect 500 replies LOL! Anyway, yes your TTB will hold up to weekend wheeling. The TTB is really not much weaker than a solid D44 - yes you have one more u-joint but beyond that axle shaft diameter, ring gear diamater and spline counts are all the same. So the question then becomes if a D44 is strong enough for what you do, and it sounds like it is.
Some will also argue that the beams of the TTB are weaker than the axle tubes/housing of a live axle. This could be true, I dunno. I'd say you're more likely to damage the TTB by driving straight into something, you're more likely to damage a solid axle by jumping (or landing rather), this is why many of the "tough truck" kinda competitors truss their axle housings. Hope some of this made sense, it's only my opinion and soon someone will post disagreeing w/everything I said!
Desert racers use TTB/TIB w/great success, but I think it stinks in the rocks.

 

What exactly does everybody mean by "solid axle?" My 90 XLT has a differential on the front. I thought that was a solid axle, and that non-solid axles were like 1/2 ton Chevys that have cv joints and not a differential. Evidently I am wrong, so what is the difference between mine, and a solid axle, and the cv joint types? Is the suspension different? I'm not thinking of changing it, I would just like to know. Thanks

 

IFS works fine. Want a solid axle? The cheapest conversion and best is to look around for a used 78-79 Bronco.

Bob

 

the solid axle kit that is available requires a six inch lift!!
add the costs of kit and the extra heights' effect on drivetrain and see if it is worth it for your truck.
I have had both solid and IFS and unless you do serious offroading or really want the look of solid axle, put your money elsewhere.
if you decide to fabricate it yourself, check the archives for tips and advice.

 

Yeah, one kit i looked at was made by fabritech, and all that was included was extended radius arms and drop brackets, drop pitman arm, drag link and tie rods. It had to have at least 8" of lift. Also there was some type stabilizer that ran from the bent frame cross-member that the twin beams used to be mounted to and where the power steering tube runs. I'm not sure what it was for or if it's necessary, but it had to have some special brackets to go with it, thus raising the price. The kit cost $1799 and didn't include any suspension components (i.e. extended springs) or the solid axle. I felt it was kinda a rip-off to spend $1799 for sum extended radius arms and brackets. Thanks for everyone's input, i think i'll stick my money into other stuff.

 

tx83bronco
For the amount of wheeling that you claim on doing which seems minimal, the current stock system (TTB) will be good enough and it may not be worth the additonal expense, compared to the suspension lift for the TTB

hey JBronco
"Solid Axle" is in referance to what the rear-end looks like for the front. There are plenty of pictures on the web sight the I mentioned above, you might want to check it out. On the Ford trucks and Broncos from 1980 to 1996 they came with TTB system on the front end. the solid axles and the TTB both have differentials on the front.

Hope this helps

 

yeah, thanks man, that's where i first heard of a production solid axle conversion for my bronco.

 

So basically the reason to change to a solid axle is to get the leaf spring front suspension. Somebody please correct me if I am wrong. But is there any difference in the differentials themselves? Sorry if I've gone off of the gist of the thread. And how does the TTB compare to a setup like a 90's 1/2 ton Chevy, which uses cv joints for the front? I'm not thinking of changing, because I use my 4WD so as not to get stuck in sand or mud, not for rock climbing, but I just like to know what my truck is equipped with and capable of. Thanks again.

 

Hey JBronco,

There is Bassically no difference in the differentials themselves. Most Broncos came with the Dana 44 differential with 3.54 gear ratio. They are just as reliable as a 90's 1/2 ton Chevy. there is probably more flex and traval with TTB on the Bronco's

Hope this helps

 

So the Broncos had dana 44's in front. Do you know what they had in the rear? Just curious. Thanks

 

they have ford8.8's or ford 9" depending on the year.
as for ttb durability, i have two trucks with it, and both have well over 150,000 miles on them. no major problems, no major stucks because of them.
I did have a full size blazer that had a straight axle, and managed to bend the housing. on the same jump, the ttb just flexes.

 

You shouldn't have any problem running the TTB if you don't do all of the hardcore stuff. I've never had any problem with mine. As for the rear end, it's probably the 8.8".

 

i have an ifs and i keep blowing axles so i want thats why i want soild axles i was running a sick cylender and it would blow the axles in mud holes and thats not using 4 low know i have a 400 and its worse i think solid is the only way to go

 

hey tx83bronco,
for the 83 that you have I'm pretty sure you have the 8.8" with 3.55 gear ratio. You might want to Check this sight out, it has a history of the bronco
http://www.off-road.com/ford/bigbroncos/tech/techpage.html
I found it useful myself.

hope this helps