I need your expert opinions on how to widen the stock wheel tubs on a 53 F-350 9 foot box (I'm cutting it down to 8 feet). Here's a picture:


Here's a picture showing the current inside measurements: (it's for my 8 foot box so only the length in incorrect)

Here's the drawing of my rear axle setup:


I'm thinking of widening the wheel tubs 3" on each side to allow clearance for the inner DRW. I would like to keep the look of the stock tubs. I've never liked the boxy wheel tubs that some show trucks have. I don't have access to any fancy metal working tools (english wheel etc), just a MIG and plasma. I don't think there are any other Ford pickup boxes that have a close wheel tub profile to use as these are 41" wide at the base. I do have another pair of bedsides I could steal the tubs from. Any help is much appreciated as I haven't done any sheetmetal work before.

 

Nathan -

I agree that the roundy shape of the tub edge is nicer than a square corner. You just need to add a spacer.

I would cut the tubs off the walls at the seam between the two and include the lower return flange that the floor attaches to (with the tubs).

Then add a 3" wide strip of sheet metal to push the tub inboard. It should work out that a simple rectangular piece will fit nicely, but I would mock it up with craft paper (or cardboard) first to be sure. Add some small strips to complete the return flange and you should be there.

The floor board geometry will be the next challenge.

 

I was wondering when I cut them off is to leave like a 3/8 lip so I have something to match the new piece on. Like a lap weld. Also the bed is made out of 15 gauge steel so it's built Ford tough!

 

Leaving the 3/8" will make cutting easier by giving some clearance for the nut on the angle grinder. You may be able to guide the cut off the bed side also.

It looks like the roundy shape starts pretty early as you move inboard from the bed wall, Leaving a tab there will just probably change the shape of the new piece a little from rectangular.

Have you decided yet where your cuts will be to shorten the 9' to 8'? I would have that planned before cutting anything. You may want to section the side with more than one cut to change from 4 post sockets to 3 and center one over the wheel tub.

 

IIRC, someone used boat-trailer fenders as spacers. Just a thought.

 

I made my wheel wells out of a trailer fender. The great thing about trailer fenders is you can get them in various sizes. I have some pics in my gallery of what I ended up with. For some model fenders, you can get metal backing plates that you can weld and smooth over making the wheel well look like one piece. This ended up being easier than I thought it would. I used diamond plate...it's almost a habit at this point

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=23100

 

Randy,
I'm not sure if I'm going to bother spending the time to move the stake pockets. I would have to fill the top holes and cut new ones. As for cutting the bed I only have to make one cut as the rear of the bed is like the same width



Havi,
I've though about those but they aren't long enough.

I have an idea. I may just use my spare wheel tubs from my 51 box to extend the back of the tubs like this: (The dark grey is the addition)

 

53fatfndr,
That looks real nice but the biggest trailer fender I can get is 9"x31". Where as the stock tubs are 12"x41".

 

Thanks. You know what, the 9"x31" is what I used Have you tried Redneck Trailer Supply? Another option would be to get one for a tandem axle and trim it down. I see your delima, only I was having issues after I chose to go with a narrowed 9" rear...52" drum to drum if I remember right.

http://www.redneck-trailer.com/products2006.htm

 

I agree with Randy Jack. Attach new metal next to bed side. In this case you need the new width at the highest point. If you put it inboard the clearence height goes down as you go inboard, more of a chance to rub inboard tire.Also next to the bed is the least angle to weld, almost flat. With a inboard addition more severe angles to correct. With limited tools, etc. trailer or other tubs maybe the least difficult to deal with. Flat top tubs make it easier to carry 4 X 8 sheets of plywood, etc. (couldn't resist wood comment). I've seen some tubs/fenders with rounded edges. Have a great day,chuck

 

So adding the 3" between the bed and wheel tub like this will be the best route?

 

That was the idea I was trying to convey. I think it's the easiest way to do it.

 

In the older hotrod type magazines that is exactly what they did to make mini tubs for wider wheels/tires in cars (these were the other brand). They usually added 2" or 3" in width on each side for a narrower rear end (typically a ford 9" LOL).

Then it was welded, cleaned up, and sprayed with the trunk lining junk (whatever they use).

A typical person could not tell it had ever been done until they looked under the car at the wide meats that were stuffed under it. I saw a few of them at car shows back in the 80's done that way. It looked good.

 

Yes, I agree with your picture. In another tread, not sure how far back someone wanted to extent the rear fenders outward. He put, I think it was three inch strips close to the bed on the outside between the fender and bed. Same idea. I continue to read past threads, it's the memory that going. Living in a XP world with a 286 memory board. Have a great day, take pictures, chuck

 

I always take lots of pictures. I have to widen my rear fenders also but I'm just going to weld my F-1 fenders to M-3 fenders. I need to widen them like 7".

Ah, the old computer days... Trying to free up 600 KB of memory to play a game when you only had 640 KB. Dang that memory maker!